Southeast Asia's Best Recipes. Wendy Hutton

as dried pearl sago. These are not much bigger than a pin head and are mainly used in desserts and in a few soups. The balls soften and turn transparent when cooked and help thicken coconut milk or water with their gluey texture. Tapioca balls, made from the starch of the cassava root, are virtually indistinguishable in taste (there isn’t any!) and can be substituted for pearl sago. Some tapioca balls are the same size as pearl sago, although it is usually found in larger balls about the size of a tear drop.

      Salam leaf is popular in Indonesian cooking. It is quite different to the Western bay leaf (or laurel), which is often incorrectly suggested as a substitute. Salam leaf grows on a large tree that is a member of the cassia family; it adds a distinctive aroma to food, even when used dried. If you can obtain fresh salam leaves, keep them in a bag in the freezer; otherwise, store dried leaves in an airtight container in the fridge for long keeping. There is no substitute for salam leaves.

      Salted fish is a standby in many Southeast Asian homes. The type used in recipes in this book is thick fillets of salted fish, often sold as Mergui fish (named after the region in southern Burma reputed to produce some of the finest salted fish). Salted fish is not normally soaked before use; when thinly sliced and fried to a crisp, it makes a wonderful garnish (and, incidentally, a good substitute for crumbled bacon in Western salads).

      Salted soybeans is richly flavored fermented soybean, known in Thailand by its Chinese name, dau jiao and in Vietnam as tuong cu da or tuong bac. The beans are fermented in thick liquid and sold in jars; they vary from dark brown to light golden in color and are sometimes labeled “yellow bean sauce.” The basic salted soybean paste contains only soybeans, water and salt. It is possible also to buy slightly sweetened versions, or those with added chili. The beans are usually mashed with the back of a spoon before being used.

      Saw-tooth coriander, a long pungent blade with saw-tooth edges, tastes like a cross between coriander, mint and basil. It is known in Cambodia as chi bonla or chi ba-rang, prik chee farang in Thailand and ngo gai in Vietnam (elsewhere, it is sometimes referred to by its botanical name, eryngo). Sawtooth coriander is generally added to soups and served as part of a platter of fresh herbs with Vietnamese food. Fresh coriander leaves (cilantro) is the best substitute.

      Sesame oil is made by extracting the oil from toasted sesame seeds, giving it a rich flavor and aroma that is lacking in Middle Eastern sesame oils, extracted from raw seeds. Sesame oil is used sparingly as a seasoning, not as a cooking medium. Look for a Chinese brand if possible.

      Sesame seeds are tiny tear-drop shaped seeds, creamy white in color and rich in oil. In Southeast Asia (particularly Vietnam), they are generally toasted and used as a sprinkle on food, including desserts.

      Shallots are small and purplish, each weighing about 1 _/3 oz (10 g) and often preferred to larger onions for their sweetness and texture. If these are not available, the brown-skinned or “French” shallot (eschalot) can be substituted, taking into account any significant difference in size when measuring the quantity required for a recipe. Alternatively, use a red or brown skinned onion; a 3 to 3 1/2 oz (85–100 g) onion is roughly equivalent to eight shallots. In Vietnamese recipes, it’s fine to use the white portion of green onions (scallions) if shallots are not available. Shallots are frequently pounded and used to flavor and thicken sauces and curries, added raw to many salads and also deep-fried until crisp as a popular garnish. Packets of crisp-fried shallots are normally available in Asian stores, but it is easy to make your own (see page 22).

      Shrimp crackers are dried wafers made from shrimp and starch (generally tapioca flour) and are very popular as a garnish or snack, especially in Indonesia, where they are known as krupuk. Similar wafers are made with fish, vegetables, or the melinjo nut. All wafers should be stored in an airtight container and must be thoroughly dry before being dropped in very hot oil for a few seconds, until they puff up. (Some local cooks sun-dry them before frying, but you can also use a very low oven.)

      Shrimp paste is common everywhere from Burma (where it’s called nagpi) through to Bali (where the local name is terasi) and some form of dried shrimp paste is an important part of Southeast Asian cuisine. Made from fermented salted shrimp pressed into a paste (which can range in texture from moist to firm and dry), dried shrimp paste varies in color from very dark brown through to a purplish pink. This paste is very strong smelling when raw and must be cooked before being eaten (see page 22). It can be stored almost indefinitely in a firmly covered container in a store cupboard. Thick black shrimp paste should not be confused with dried shrimp paste, as it has a different flavor and texture (although it still declares its origin in terms of smell). This black, treacle-like paste is sold in jars, sometimes labeled “black shrimp paste” or “ petis.” It is used in Malaysia and Singapore, particularly by Nonya cooks and also in Indonesia, usually in sauces. The Chinese name is hay koh.

      Soy sauce, introduced by the Chinese, is made from salted and fermented soybeans. Widely used in Southeast Asia, the most common type is regular soy sauce, which is a clear medium brown liquid with a salty taste. Dark soy sauce (Chinese brands are often labeled “Superior soy sauce”) is dense black and thicker, somewhat less salty and with a malty tang. In Indonesia, sweet soy sauce (kicup manis) is the most widely used variety. If you can’t obtain this, add 1 teaspoon soft brown sugar to 1 tablespoon of dark soy sauce. If using soy sauce which is naturally fermented (check the label, the best Japanese brands are made in this way), it is best refrigerated after opening. Other types of soy sauce can be kept in a cupboard for many months.

      Star anise is native to Southern China and looks like a small dried brown flower with shiny brown seeds within each of its eight petals. Sometimes some of the “petals” of this aniseed-flavored spice get broken; if a whole star anise is required, add more petals to make up the required number. Star anise is particularly popular with braised pork dishes and is essential in Vietnamese beef stock.

      Tamarind is a fruit from the huge and decorative tamarind tree. The pods contain flesh-covered seeds which are used either when young and green or, more commonly, picked when mature and used as a pulp. Tamarind juice, which adds a fruity sourness to countless dishes throughout the region, is made from tamarind pulp, soaked in a little water, then squeezed and strained to provide the juice. Tamarind pulp is usually sold as a dark brownish mass, pulp, seeds, fibers and all. Some brands of tamarind pulp are compressed into a very hard brick and are best avoided, as it is concentrated tamarind paste sold in jars. Try to find Thai brands of tamarind pulp, which are usually moist and of good quality. Stored in a jar or firmly covered container on the shelf, tamarind pulp keeps almost indefinitely.

      Tapioca is also known as cassava. The tubers of this plant and even the young leaves are sometimes eaten as a vegetable. The starch extracted from the tubers is sometimes dried and made into small balls (see Sago). Tapioca flour is most commonly used in desserts (and is, incidentally, used like talcum powder against prickly heat).

      Turmeric belongs to the prolific ginger family. The plant has large soft leaves and is predominantly used for its intensely yellow rhizome. Fresh or frozen turmeric rhizome is sometimes available outside Asia; ground turmeric can be used as a substitute, but although it gives plenty of color, the flavor