Southeast Asia's Best Recipes. Wendy Hutton

keep about 5 to 6 in (12.5 to 15 cm) of the stem. Stand with the ends in about 1/2 in (1 cm) of water in a glass and keep in a warm place (a bench or window sill) for up to about 2 weeks for use when required. Alternatively, trim the lemongrass and store in the fridge for 2 to 3 weeks, or for several months in the freezer; slice while still frozen. Small packets of thinly sliced, deep-frozen lemongrass are often available in Asian stores abroad; 2 tablespoons of sliced lemongrass are roughly equivalent to the inner part of the bottom 3 in (7.5 cm) of a stem of fresh lemon-grass. If you live in a moderately warm climate and would like to grow lemongrass, leave the cut stems of fresh lemongrass in water until they start to send out roots. Transfer to a large pot or a sunny spot in the garden and keep well watered. They should multiply during the summer.

      Noodles were introduced by the Chinese and have, over the centuries, become a firmly entrenched part of Southeast Asian cuisine, although they have never replaced rice as the staple food. Noodles made from rice flour predominate, although wheat flour noodles are also eaten, especially in the towns and cities where Southeast Asians of Chinese ethnic origin tend to congregate. Both fresh and dried noodles are used. Fresh noodles should be refrigerated until used; dried noodles will keep almost indefinitely in a cupboard. Fresh rice flour noodles are generally cut into flat strands about 1/2 in (1 cm) in width and are usually thin and light in texture. These are known as sen men in Thailand and bahn pho in Vietnam. Fresh rice flour noodles tend to be thicker and heavier in Singapore and Malaysia, where they are known as kway teow or sa hor fun. Spaghetti-like fresh round rice flour (laksa) noodles are also found and generally used in noodle soups. It is also possible to buy flat sheets of rice flour dough, which can be cut to the desired size. Very thin fresh rice vermicelli is also available in the region, but seldom seen abroad. All fresh rice noodles have been steamed before being sold; before using, they should be blanched in hot water for about 1 minute to remove any oil which has been used to stop them sticking together, then drained and used as directed in recipes. Dried rice flour noodles come in several forms. Dried rice vermicelli is very fine threads of rice noodle, rather like angel hair pasta. Rice-stick noodles (or rice-ribbon noodles) are flat and vary in width from about 1/8 to 1/2 in (3 mm–1 cm). (Some brands of rice vermicelli are confusingly labeled rice-stick noodles.) Dried rice-stick noodles should be soaked in hot water for about 10 minutes to soften. They are then generally boiled until cooked, which will take 30 to 60 seconds for rice vermicelli and about 3 to 5 minutes for rice-stick noodles, depending on their thickness. Transparent (bean thread) noodles, made from green mung bean starch, are also known as jelly noodles, glass noodles, cellophane noodles and green bean threads. The dried noodles are very fine and white and difficult to cut before soaking, even using kitchen scissors. For this reason, try to choose very small packets so that you will not have to fight to separate as little as 1 oz (30 g), which a number of recipes require. Before using the noodles, put the required amount in a bowl and add warm water to cover. They should be soft after 10 minutes, when they can be drained and cut to size. Packets keep almost indefinitely on the shelf. Wheat noodles in their fresh form are sold in flat ribbons of varying widths, or are round and vary in size from very thin noodles to fat, heavy yellow noodles looking like spaghetti. Wheat noodles are often called “egg noodles,” even though most do not actually contain eggs and get their yellow color from food dye. Fresh wheat noodles can be kept refrigerated for 2 to 3 days. Wheat and egg noodles are also available dried, although the thickest variety is sometimes difficult to find. Before using fine or medium fresh wheat or “egg” noodles, shake them to dislodge any starch (used to stop them sticking together) and blanch in boiling water for up to 1 minute to cook. Rinse under cold water (this is important) and drain. Thick fresh wheat noodles (often known as Hokkien noodles) should be put into a bowl and blanched in boiling water for about 1 minute, to remove any oil or impurities. Drain and use as directed in the recipe. Dried wheat noodles are normally added to boiling water to cook, without any pre-soaking; the cooking time will depend upon the thickness, but is usually around 3 minutes (check the time stated on the package). The noodles should be separated with a long fork or chopsticks during cooking and once cooked, rinsed in cold water and drained. If this last step is omitted, the noodles may become gluey.

      Oyster sauce is a Chinese seasoning sauce that does not actually taste of oysters (and often doesn’t even contain them; check the label to see if you’re buying real oyster sauce and not “oyster-flavored” sauce) and has the ability to intensify the flavor of food. It is often splashed on to cooked vegetables, or added to marinades; it is more popular in areas with a large Chinese community.

      Palm sugar is made from the boiled sap of several different types of palm, including the coconut and palmyra. The flavor can be like a mild butterscotch, similar to maple syrup, or quite strong, while the texture varies from soft palm sugar sold in jars and spooned out, to hard round cylinders and wide oval cakes. (The oval shape comes from the coconut shell into which the sugar syrup is poured to set.) Palm sugar is not as sweet as regular cane sugar and has a very pleasant aroma. Use soft brown sugar as a substitute, or if making palm sugar syrup, add a little maple syrup to the brown sugar syrup.

      Pandanus leaf is a long wide blade; it is also called fragrant screwpine. The leaves grow up to about 20 in (50 cm) in length, but are often sold trimmed. Cooks throughout the region often rake a pandanus leaf with a fork, then tie it into a knot and add it to the pot when cooking rice; it adds a subtle fragrance that makes the rice taste like prized newly-harvested rice. Pandanus leaves are also used in some curries, but mainly in cakes and desserts. They can be deep-frozen. Pandanus essence is the best substitute.

      Pickled ginger comprises slices of ginger pickled with salt and vinegar, either prepared at home, or bought in small amounts scooped out of big jars in local markets. Chinese and Japanese brands are usually readily available in Asian stores abroad. Pickled ginger is often shredded and added to sauces or salads.

      Rice flour, made from plain rice and glutinous rice (sometimes labeled “sweet” or “sticky” rice flour, made from white glutinous rice) are both used in cakes and savories; they are not interchangeable.

      Rice paddy herb, known as ngo om in Vietnam and ma om in Cambodia, is a distinctive herb with a fleshy pale stem with narrow light green leaves. It tastes a bit like very strong fresh coriander leaves (cilantro), which can be used as a substitute. Rice paddy herb is sometimes added to soups, served as part of a herb platter and also eaten with dips.

      Rice paper wrappers is a wafer-thin disc made from a rice and water dough spread on woven bamboo trays to sun-dry (the disc retains the distinctive pattern of the tray when dried). Known in Vietnam as bahn trang, these discs are very brittle and need to be moistened in water to soften slightly before being used to roll up just about anything and everything Vietnamese. They are also filled and deep-fried to make the famous Vietnamese spring rolls. Packets of rice papers (often made in Thailand) are available in three forms: large discs about 8 in (20 cm) in diameter; smaller discs 5 to 6 in (12.5 to 15 cm) in diameter and wedges which have been cut from a large round rice paper. The last are preferable for making tiny deep-fried spring rolls. Advice on handling rice papers is given in recipes where these are required. They can be stored in a covered container in the cupboard for several months. Rice vinegar is mild and faintly fragrant and is the preferred vinegar throughout Southeast Asia. Inexpensive brands from China are usually readily available in the West (as well as in Southeast Asia). If buying a Japanese rice vinegar, make sure you do not buy what is labeled “sushi vinegar” as this has sweet rice wine, sugar and salt added. If you cannot obtain rice vinegar, use distilled white vinegar.

      Sago, a starch extracted from the trunk of the sago palm, is sometimes eaten as a gluey staple in a few remote parts of Southeast Asia. However, it is more commonly