Let's Go Europe 2019. Harvard Student Agencies

is the city of wine and La Conserverie-Conserverie doesn’t disappoint. This wine bar serves high-quality Bordelaise wines in a charming space geared toward an almost exclusively local crowd. Although there is a terrace courtyard, we recommend kicking back on one of the cozy armchairs and admiring the Moroccan rugs. If you’ve grown tired of wine, La Conserverie-Conserverie offers an expansive selection of other drinks, including Aperol spritz and a wide array of beers along with small plates to pair with your beverage of choice.

       i Wine from €4, small plates from €10; wheelchair accessible

       THE STARFISH PUB ($)

      24 Rue Sainte Colombe; 05 56 52 88 61; open M-F 4pm-2am, Sa 2pm-2am, Su 2pm-midnight

      For the love of all that is good in the world, you can finally put away your wine connoisseur alter-ego and let loose at this popping underground club and warm red and yellow-walled bar. This hotspot is a big draw for young backpackers, Erasmus students, and locals from all walks of life. If you’re lucky, you’ll be able to belt out a classic French song on karaoke night or listen to local musicians during Starfish’s jam sessions. Pro tip: come during happy hour (5:30pm-8:30pm) before the bar gets really crowded for sweet deals on all your favorite drinks (wine included).

       i Drinks from €3; wheelchair accessible

       SYMBIOSE ($$)

      4 Quai des Chartrons; 05 56 23 67 15; open M noon-2:30pm, Tu-F noon-2:30pm and 7pm-2pm, Sa 7pm-2am

      At first blush, Symbiose looks like a hippie café joint that probably serves from the organic-only, grass-fed variety. Wrong. Located in the Chartrons district, Symbiose features a lovely fusion of tapas cuisine using meats such as chicken and duck in flavorful combinations only Ratatouille’s Remy could have come up with. But the surprise about Symbiose and its welcoming wood-paneled interior doesn’t end there. Behind the grandfather clock at the back of the restaurant is a secret door, transforming this unassuming joint into a speakeasy right in the historical wine district.

       i Lunch entrées from €13, dinner entrées from €20, plates from €8, drinks from €5; reservations recommended; wheelchair accessible

CAEN

      Coverage by Emily Corrigan

      Caen made a name for itself in the annals of history long before students invaded the city, their backpacks and travel guides in tow. It especially gained fame as the former home of William the Conqueror (known as William the Bastard to some), and his castle and other constructions still dominate the city’s architecture. In more recent history, Caen played an important role in World War II. Not far from the landing beaches on the coast of Normandy, it’s the perfect base for exploring the region and understanding its harrowing past. In the city, medieval streets lined with bars and restaurants mingle with massive cathedrals and shops in modern buildings that were constructed after the city’s near-complete bombardment during the war. Add some regional cheese and speciality cider and you’ll feel yourself transported back to medieval times.

       ORIENTATION

      The city of Caen spreads over five main districts. Near the center of the city is Caen Castle, surrounded by the main hustle and bustle of the town. Le Vaugueux, the medieval district full of restaurants, lies just below it to the southeast, while the shop-lined pedestrian streets of Saint-Sauveur flank the castle to the southwest. The Jardin des Plantes district to the northwest showcases impressive nineteenth-century townhouses, while the peninsula district to the southeast is perfect for an evening stroll along the water. Don’t miss the hippodrome towards the city’s southern edge, or the historical beaches just a few miles north.

       ESSENTIALS

      GETTING THERE

      Caen has its own small regional airport with some international flights from a limited number of other European cities. It’s about 3mi. north of the city, so take a taxi. SNCF also runs high-speed trains out of Caen station.

      GETTING AROUND

      Caen has a tram system that spans over two lines. Tickets cost €2 but depend on how far you’re traveling. Caen has a convenient bus system that can also travel to other nearby towns. The main hub is Gare de Caen. Tickets are €1.50.

      PRACTICAL INFORMATION

      Tourist Offices: 12 Pl. Saint-Pierre; 02 31 27 14 14

      Banks/ATMS/Currency Exchange: Currency can be exchanged at the Bureau de Change (115 Rue Saint-Jean; 02 31 30 18 87; www.change-caen.com; open M-F 9:15am-12:30pm and 2:15pm-6:30pm, Sa 9:15am-12:30pm and 2:15pm-5pm).

      Post Offices: La Poste (2 Rue Georges Lebret, open M-F 8:30am-6:30pm, Sa 9am-12:30pm and 1:30pm-4:30pm)

      Internet: Free public Wi-Fi is provided in six areas, listed here: caen.fr/capitale-vivre/wifi-en-acces-libre.

      BGLTQ+ Resources: Centre BGLTQ de Normandie (74 Bd. Dunois, 06 89 49 40 56; www.centrelgbt-normandie.fr)

      EMERGENCY INFORMATION

      Emergency Number: 112

      Police: Police Nationale (10 Rue du Dr Thibout de la Fresnaye; 02 31 29 22 22)

      Rape Crisis Center: In case of a crisis, call RAINN (800 656 4673).

      Hospitals: Hospital Center University De Caen (Av. de la Côte de Nacre; 02 31 06 31 06)

      Pharmacies: Pharmacy Hastings (24 Rue Lanfranc; 02 31 74 75 24).

       ACCOMMODATIONS

       HÔTEL DU HAVRE CAEN CENTRE ($$)

      11 Rue du Havre; 02 31 86 19 80; www.caen-hotel.fr

      Beds as soft as baby sheep covered in butter. Wi-Fi that works faster than the speed of light. The privacy of your own bathroom. In short, a weary traveler’s oasis. This is how you will feel when you check in at Hôtel du Havre. Although Caen isn’t exactly a young traveler’s hub, the hotel provides the most comfortable and affordable accommodations near the city center. The staff is professional and knowledgeable, not just a teenager on summer vacation, and the fluffy (and free) towels feel like clouds compared to your average hostel sandpaper.

       i Rooms starting at €55; reservation required; wheelchair accessible; Wi-Fi

       SIGHTS

      CULTURE

       HIPPODROME DE LA PRAIRIE

      Bd. Yves Guillou; 02 31 27 50 80; www.letrot.com/fr/hippodrome/caen/1400; hours vary

      Experience authentic French horse-racing culture at Caen’s very own hippodrome. The track features exclusively trotting races, meaning either the horses will remain in the trotting gait (if you know anything about horses) or it’ll just look really weird (if you don’t). Whether you want to bet on a horse, or just root for whichever one has the prettiest tail, one thing is certain: the fast-talking horse race announcing is even less comprehensible in French.

       i Admission €3; wheelchair accessible

      LANDMARKS