Walking on La Gomera and El Hierro. Paddy Dillon

www.airbnb.com or www.booking.com. At the top end of the scale are the Parador at San Sebastián and the Hotel Jardin Tecina at Playa de Santiago. There are other hotels around the island, as well as simple pensións and self-catering apartments, with prices to suit all pockets. The Hotel Sonia in Chipude is an excellent base, not only because of the immediate variety of walks but also because it has good bus links.

Food and drink

      La Gomera is self-sufficient in terms of fruit, vegetables and fish. While some restaurants are cosmopolitan, others offer good local fare. Specialities include goat cheese. Most is eaten just as it is. Some goat cheese, but only a little, is used to make an oily sauce called almogrote. Watercress soup (sopa de berros) sounds bland but is very tasty. Wrinkly potatoes (papas arrugadas) cooked in salt are surprisingly refreshing in hot weather, served with hot mojo roja sauce and gentler mojo verde.

      The most popular fish dishes are based on vieja. If any dishes such as soups or stews need thickening, then reach for the roasted flour gofio, which also serves as a breakfast cereal. Many desserts are enhanced with miel de palma, or palm honey, a dark syrup from Canarian palm trees. There are also Gomeran wines available. Never pass an opportunity to indulge in local fare!

Tourist information offices

      San Sebastián, tel [phone]

      Playa de Santiago, tel [phone]

      Valle Gran Rey, tel [phone]

WALK 1

      San Sebastián and Jaragán

Start/finish	Plaza de la Constitución, San Sebastián
Distance	18.5km (11½ miles)
Total ascent/descent	700m (2295ft)
Time	5hr
Terrain	Roads, tracks and rugged paths on the ascent. A steep descent and a long road walk to finish.
Refreshments	Plenty of choice in San Sebastián. Bars at Lomo Fragoso and El Langrero.
Transport	Buses converge on San Sebastián from all parts of La Gomera
Note	Route uses Rutas 30, 32 and GR132

      After climbing from the centre of San Sebastián to its highest suburbs, tracks give way to rugged mountain paths across the face of Jaragán. A ridge walk is followed by a steep and rugged descent through scrub into a valley. A simple road walk returns to San Sebastián.

      Start in the centre of San Sebastián on a corner of the Plaza de la Constitución beside the Bar Restaurante La Hila. Walk up the narrow Camino de La Hila and turn right. The stone-paved street climbs, ending with steps to the Mirador de La Hila. Enjoy the views and continue up the road, keeping right at a junction signposted for La Lomada. At the next road bend, climb steps up Camino de Puntallana. Watch for a right turn up more steps and climb to a road at a higher level. Turn left and keep left at a junction to follow Calle de la Orilla de Llano. The road climbs and leaves the top end of town as part of the long-distance GR132, bearing stout markers at 1km intervals.

      Reach a roundabout and follow a narrow road uphill. Turn right as signposted for Jaragán, following a path through tabaibal, verode and aulaga vegetation. Cross a water pipe and head gently up to a narrow road. Turn right then quickly left to walk up beside a goat enclosure to reach the road again at a signpost. Walk up an easy, stony path past old terraces on Lomo de las Nieves. The path levels out with views across the valley to Los Roques, with Jaragán ahead.

      The walk starts by climbing past houses to leave San Sebastián

      Follow the path onwards and go down a rocky ramp above palms. Cross a gap and climb, exploiting a soft red layer. Climb onto a ridge and pass lots of cardón and tabaibal scrub. Rocks have been shifted to make the path, but watch carefully as it rises across a slope of prickly pears. A pointed peak rises ahead, so keep right and pick up a path contouring along a soft, creamy layer of rock. Later, zigzag up towards palms then head downhill. The path contours round a hollow in the mountainside around 500m (1640ft). A reddish, stony zigzag path cuts through old terraces, becoming vague as it crosses the shoulder of Jaragán around 625m (2050ft).

      Swing right along another soft, creamy layer on the rocky slope, slicing across the face of Jaragán, sometimes cut so deeply that the rock overhangs. Dogs may be heard barking up the cliff, at a little goat farm. Keep following the terrace path onwards, wary of rock-fall. When the far end of the ridge is reached, scooped-out steps lead downhill and a sign announces the Parque de Natural Majona. Zigzag down to a bend on a dirt road at 599m (1965ft), and make a decision. The dirt road can be followed right for Hermigua, continuing along the GR132. It is easy, but very long and convoluted.

      The dirt road could also be followed left, winding easily down to the main road, but Rutas 31 and 32 run straight up a rocky path instead. It starts awkwardly but becomes easier, climbing a broad ridge between forest and scrub. Climb only until a path drifts left, Ruta 31, which links with a narrow, stone-paved path zigzagging down a steep slope of dense scrub. Cross the main road near Las Casetas and go through a barrier to continue the descent.

      Follow a short stretch of dirt road, but turn left down a narrow zigzag path on another steep and scrubby slope. When a house is reached, turn left down a red-tiled path, cross a streambed, go down steps and pass some banana plants. Turn left to cross a bridge over a river then turn right to reach a road beside the Bar El Atajo at Lomo Fragoso.

      Walk down the road, all the way through the Barranco de la Villa to San Sebastián. It sounds simple, but it is 6.5km (4 miles) to the town centre. Pass San Antonio and pass the Bar Restaurante La Cabaña at El Langrero. The road turns left to cross a bridge over the barranco then turns right past an ambulance station. Follow the road into San Sebastián, keeping left as signposted ‘centro ciudad’ under a road bridge. Walk straight into the town centre.

      The path across the face of Jaragán is very narrow and at times runs beneath an overhang

WALK 2

      Los Roques and La Laja

Start/finish	Degollada de Peraza
Distance	8.5km (5¼ miles)
Total ascent/descent	700m (2295ft)
Time	4hr
Terrain	Good paths and tracks, sometimes on very steep slopes. Fine valley and mountain views, although some parts are forested.
Refreshments	Bar at Degollada de Peraza
Transport	Buses reach Degollada de Peraza from San Sebastián, Playa de Santiago and Valle Gran Rey
Note	Route uses Ruta 29 and GR131

      Motorists can start this walk at La Laja, climb to Los Roques, head for Degollada de Peraza and finish by descending to La Laja. Non-motorists can reach Degollada de Peraza by bus. The