Walking in the Dordogne. Janette Norton

      There are plenty of places to stay in Bergerac and the surrounding villages, and the driving directions for all walks in this section are from Bergerac.

WALK 1

      Along the river at Bergerac

Start/Finish	Cale de l’Alba, Bergerac, 20m
Distance	7.5km
Total ascent	25m
Grade	Easy
Time	2hr
Maximum altitude	30m
Maps	IGN Série Bleue 1836 O Bergerac 1:25,000
Access	In Bergerac, park on the north bank of the river in the Rue Albert Garrigat between the two central bridges, otherwise at the Vieux Port. Then walk out of Bergerac (south-east) under the Pont de Louis Pimont along the Promenade de l’Alba to reach Cale de l’Alba, where the walk starts.
Signposting	Not needed as the route is obvious

      This is a flat, easy walk along the peaceful banks of the Dordogne river, from the oldest port of Cale de l’Alba to the modern dam (barrage). The walk enables you to explore the history of the town and the river, described on the information boards you pass. On your return, the Vieux Port is a good place to take a detour up into the old town, with its winding streets, half-timbered houses and wine and tobacco museums.

      When you reach the dam, it is possible to continue along the banks of the Dordogne as far as Cale de Prigonrieux, another 5.5km, making the return trip 19km. There are buses back into Bergerac from Prigonrieux, but ask at the tourist office or check the bus timetable (www.la-cab.fr) first as they are infrequent.

      At the Cale de l’Alba, which is just before the end of the riverside path, you can still see the small slipway going down into the river, opposite the old building once used for loading merchandise.

      The small port of Cale de l’Alba, from the 12th to the end of the 19th century, was the terminus for most of the wood coming from the hinterland. This was unloaded into warehouses, and the gabarres (large flat-bottomed boats) continued with some of the wood to the Vieux Port, to be joined by barrels of wine for the onward journey to Libourne and the Atlantic port of Bordeaux.

      Walk back towards the Pont de Louis Pimont, past some very upmarket houses and gardens on the right, and go under the bridge to join the tree-lined promenade beside the road. Continue along the Rue Albert Garrigat towards the next bridge, the Vieux Pont, and cross straight over towards Vieux Bergerac, along the Rue Hippolyte Taine. You soon reach the Vieux Port, from where you can take a trip out on a gabarre.

      At the Vieux Port there are two old courau boats, used for medium sized cargos, and several information boards in English, including ones on the town of Bergerac and the mills, which ground wheat and walnuts to export all over the world. Opposite the port is the large old mill-building, a symbol of Bergerac’s trading activity in the 18th century. By the mid 19th century, the merchandise loaded up at the Vieux Port to be transported to Bordeaux was 28 per cent wood and 65 per cent wine, the remaining cargo being of olive oil, chestnuts, paper and even millstones. On the return journey, sugar, coffee and other exotic goods came via Bordeaux from further afield.

      The port consists of three sections, the most important being the Quai Salvette which was developed in 1838. At the end is the Quai Louis Bernicot, which is named after the sea captain who circumnavigated the world after his retirement in 1936.

      A courau boat at the Vieux Port

      At the end of the port, go down the cobblestones to join the river path opposite an island. The path soon rejoins the road at an information board entitled ‘le Canelet’, and then goes on a grassy track down to the river at the Sport Nautique building. Go back up to join the Promenade Pierre Loti, which is a quiet road for pedestrians only between the river and more smart houses. Pierre Loti, 1850−1923, was a writer whose novels are set in the exotic places he travelled to when a naval officer. The road then becomes the Promenade du Barrage, which is a peaceful stretch with no houses and a large military area on the right. The pedestrian section ends at a Sports Centre and Tennis Club just before a line of buoys across the river, and a warning sign that swimming and boating are forbidden in the area of the dam. You now reach the dam, which in high water is an even more impressive sight, with water pouring over it.

      On the riverbank there are several information boards, about the dams in the Dordogne and the different fish found in the river, which include salmon, trout, eels, sturgeon, pike, perch, carp and bream. An unusually long fish ladder of 70m has been constructed to enable the fish to get over the dam.

      At the end of the road there is a parking area and a small bridge leading to a narrow path in the woods. Take this if you wish to continue along the river to Prigonrieux, a further 5.5km. Otherwise, turn around and retrace your steps to the Vieux Port. This is a good place to make a detour to see the old town. Continue along the river to Cale de l’Alba and your car (2hr).

      Old houses in Bergerac: photo Richard Saynor

WALK 2

      The vineyards of Monbazillac

Start/Finish	Monbazillac, 165m
Distance	6km
Total ascent	80m
Grade	Easy
Time	1hr 45min
Maximum altitude	175m
Maps	IGN Série Bleue 1837 O Eymet 1:25,000
Access	From Bergerac, head south following signs to Monbazillac, which will take you onto the D13. Drive past the Château of Monbazillac to the top of the village and park opposite the tourist office next to the church (7km from Bergerac).
Signposting	Good – signposts for the Boucle de Monbazillac, yellow waymarkers (mostly posts) and red/white signs when on the GR6/GR654

      This is a short, easy walk through the vineyards to the south of the Château of Monbazillac, situated in an imposing position on the brow of a hill overlooking the Dordogne river. The surrounding vineyards, which were originally planted by monks in the Middle Ages, produce the sweet white wine the area is renowned for, and it is worth stopping after the walk for a free wine tasting.

      The Château de Monbazillac is relatively new compared to others in the Dordogne, and was not built until 1550. It was never ransacked, burnt or besieged, so remains exactly as it was built. It is now owned by the Monbazillac Wine Cooperative, and has a Wine Museum in the vaulted cellars, with free wine tasting. The rooms open to the public include the Great Hall and bedchambers, furnished with antique furniture and containing documents outlining the history of the Protestant religion. The château is open all year round except January, but check the website for details: www.chateau-monbazillac.com.