Walking in Cyprus. Nike Werstroh

with a friendly welcome on both sides of the Green Line.

Location and geography

      Cyprus, surrounded by three continents, lies in the north eastern corner of the Mediterranean Sea. It is only 74km south of Turkey, about 100km from Syria and approximately 800km from mainland Greece. The island is 240km long and 100km wide at its widest point. It is the third largest island in the Mediterranean Sea, from which it rose millions of years ago.

      The foundation rocks of Cyprus were once part of the oceanic crust of the Tethys Ocean and as such weren’t connected to any continental plate. In the late Miocene period, the African Plate levered the floor of the Tethys Ocean, causing Cyprus to emerge. The Troodos mountains were once part of the ocean bed and today they form the best-preserved example of ocean floor on the Earth’s surface. Here geologists can study the prehistoric sea floor.

      Cyprus’s two mountain ranges – the Troodos and the Kyrenia mountains – dominate its landscape. Troodos, located in the middle of the island, is mainly formed of igneous rock with its lower slopes covered by chalk. The Kyrenia, running across nearly the entire northern part of the island, consists of limestone and marble. About two million years ago the Kyrenia and Troodos mountains were islands; the land was constantly rising and the area between the two mountain ranges became the Mesaoria Plain.

Plants and flowers

      There are approximately 1800 identified plant species on the island, of which around 140 are endemic. Some of the endemic plants’ habitats are restricted to specific areas such as the Troodos mountains or the Akamas Peninsula.

      Calabrian pine (Pinus brutia) forest, which thrives from sea level to an altitude of 1400m, covers the slopes of the Troodos and Kyrenia mountains and part of the Akamas Peninsula.

      In Troodos the golden oak (Quercus alnifolia) appears at around 700m and the black pine (Pinus nigra) grows at higher altitudes. The Cyprus cedar (Cedrus brevifolia) can only be found in the Paphos Forest – especially around Trypilos Mountain. Cypress, juniper, alder and plane trees are quite common on the island.

      The carob tree (Ceratonia siliqua) is typical to the Mediterranean region and has been used in many different ways since ancient times. It can be found growing in the wild but is widely cultivated for its edible pods. The word ‘carat’ – the unit used to measure the purity of gold – is derived from the Greek word keration as the pods’ small seeds were used to measure gold in ancient times.

      Colourful wildflowers begin to bloom from late February and the meadows can be carpeted with flowers well into May. Walking is the best way to observe the flowers, and even without specialist knowledge you can admire the extensive colours. Rock roses – their colours ranging from white and yellow to pink – often cover the hillsides.

      The Kyrenia mountains are home to many wildflowers, including orchids. The greatest number of wild orchids appear in March and April. More than 30 species of orchid can be found in Cyprus, in places ranging from shady forest floors to rocky hillsides. The Cyprus bee orchid and the Lapithos bee orchid are endemic.

      The Italian orchid (Orchis italica) – or as it is commonly known, the ‘naked man orchid’ – is native to the Mediterranean region

      The island’s national flower, the Cyprus cyclamen (Cyclamen cyprium), which blooms pink or white, flowers in the early autumn in moist forests. The dark-coloured, protected Cyprus tulip (Tulipa cypria) grows in the Akamas Peninsula, the Kormakitis/Kormacit Peninsula and in some parts of the Kyrenia range. The St Hilarion cabbage (Brassica hilarionis) can be found mainly in Northern Cyprus, especially near St Hilarion Castle (Walk 36).

      Typical plants and flowers are labelled on most nature trails in Southern Cyprus, so walkers can learn to recognise them.

Wildlife

      There are 21 known species of mammal on the island. Only the luckiest walkers will spot the biggest of these – the shy Cypriot mouflon – hopping on the steep slopes in the less busy areas of the Paphos Forest and the mountains of Troodos. There is, however, a mouflon enclosure at Stavros Tis Psokas in Paphos Forest, providing an opportunity to see these endemic animals.

      Mouflon once populated the mountains of Cyprus in greater numbers, but by the middle of the 20th century hunting had decreased this population significantly. Then in 1939 the whole Paphos Forest was designated a Game Protected Area, and today it is also a Special Protected Area; thanks to these great efforts to protect the mouflon and their habitat, their numbers have increased to a satisfactory level.

      Further north, dark-coloured wild donkeys inhabit the Karpaz/Karpass Peninsula. These animals are descendants of the domesticated donkeys abandoned by people who were displaced by political conflict in the 1970s (see ‘Brief history’).

      Two bird species – the Cyprus warbler and Cyprus wheatear – are only found in Cyprus, and there is a conservation project in place to protect the endangered Griffon vulture.

      Due to its geographic location, Cyprus is an important stopping place for migrating birds, and is therefore a great place for birdwatching. Unfortunately, despite the activity being outlawed in 1974, many birds are illegally trapped, killed and served as a delicacy in some restaurants.

      Some of the sandy beaches on the island are important hatching places for the green turtle and the loggerhead turtle – both of which are endangered and protected. Turtles lay eggs every 2–5 years on the same beach where they were born, and development of the beaches means that the adult turtle might be unable to return to its birthplace. Tourism, fishing and pollution have decreased the number of suitable nesting beaches around the island, but there is now a great effort to protect the areas where the turtles lay their eggs. Hatcheries at Lara Beach in South Cyprus and Alagadi Beach in North Cyprus are specially protected areas where visitors can learn about turtles and the effort to safeguard them. In North Cyprus the Marine Turtle Research Group has been monitoring nestling turtles since 1992.

      A very small number of monk seals is believed to be living on Cyprus’ remote shores. (It is estimated that there are fewer than 700 monk seals in the entire Mediterranean.)

      Most of the snakes in Cyprus are harmless; however the blunt-nosed viper is venomous but it only attacks in self-defence. Its body is about 1.5m long, silvery-beige in colour with rectangular markings and black spots on its head. It is usually found near water. If bitten by one of these, seek medical help immediately: call 112 or go to one of the hospitals or medical centres in the towns.

      The 2m-long large whipsnake, which is shiny and black, is aggressive but non-venomous; however its bite is painful so keep your distance.

      The whipsnake’s bite is painful but non-venomous

      Also common – on the coastlines and the mountains of North Cyprus – is the light-brown coin snake. There are dark coin-shaped patterns along its body and it can grow up to 1.7m. It might be aggressive but is non-venomous.

Brief history

      Cyprus’ eventful past, from ancient times right through the 20th century, could fill this book. This section gives only a very brief history, highlighting the key events which have shaped the Cyprus we see today.

      The island has belonged to a number of different empires over the centuries, with each having an influence on its culture, architecture, cuisine and religion. This is very much in evidence on the walks, where you’ll come across ruins, Byzantine churches, Venetian bridges, monasteries, castles and EOKA (National Organisation of Cypriot Fighters) hideouts.

      Early history

      There is evidence that Cyprus has been inhabited since 8000BC. Today, the ruins of city kingdoms in Kourion, Paphos, Soloi, Lapithos/Lapta and Salamis – each dating to different periods in the island’s ancient history – are well visited by