Walking in Cyprus. Nike Werstroh

       Walk 15 Artemis Trail

       Walk 16 Caledonia circular

       Walk 17 Pouziaris Trail

       Walk 18 Loymata ton Aeton Trail

       Walk 19 Madari Trail

       Walk 20 Kannavia circular

       Walk 21 Asinou Trail

       Walk 22 Panagia tou Araka – Stavros tou Agiasmati

       Walk 23 Politiko Nature Trail

       Walk 24 Machairas Monastery – Fikardou

       Walk 25 Kionia loop

       Walk 26 Kakokefalos – Mantra tou Kampiou Trail

       South and east

       Walk 27 Hapotami Trail

       Walk 28 Pissouri coast walk

       Walk 29 Kyparissia Trail

       Walk 30 Sea caves – Kavos Hill

       Walk 31 Agioi Anargyroi – Cyclops Cave

       NORTHERN CYPRUS

       Walk 32 Monumental olive trees of Kalkanli

       Walk 33 Sina Monastery circular

       Walk 34 Lapta Baspinar Trail

       Walk 35 The Fourth Castle

       Walk 36 St Hilarion Castle

       Walk 37 Buffavento Castle

       Walk 38 Armenian monastery

       Walk 39 Alevkaya circular

       Walk 40 Esentepe – Antiphonitis Monastery

       Walk 41 Kucuk Erenkoy circular

       Walk 42 Tatlisu circular

       Walk 43 Kantara Castle

       Walk 44 Kumyali circular

       Appendix A Route summary table

       Appendix B Useful contacts

       Appendix C Further reading

      

      The narrowest section of the Avakas gorge (Walk 4)

      INTRODUCTION

      Aphrodite’s birthplace, Petra tou Romiou

      According to legend, the goddess of love and beauty, Aphrodite, was born in Cyprus. Her birthplace, Petra tou Romiou – the famous rock formation near Paphos/Baf – rising from the turquoise sea, attracts many tourists every day. Admiring the striking sea stack from the pebbly beach in the early hours before the coachloads of noisy tourists arrive, you can see why a goddess of beauty would rise from the sea on that very spot. Cyprus has a strong connection with Greek mythology, and today places of interest and even walking trails bear the names of mythological figures.

      The scenery changes from the rugged coastline of the Akamas Peninsula, washed with turquoise water, to the wildflower-carpeted meadows and pine-covered slopes of Troodos; across the cultivated Mesaoria Plains to the narrow, serene Kyrenia/Beşparmak mountains. The Kyrenia range leads to the Karpaz/Karpass Peninsula, which is like an outstretched arm pointing towards Turkey.

      Sunshine, a Mediterranean climate and golden beaches with crystal-clear waters have attracted tourists for many years. But walkers – who prefer to leave the hustle of seaside towns, noisy taverns and the busy archaeological sites behind – have only just started to discover Cyprus’ outstanding walking trails. The sound of waves crashing against the rocks and the smell of seawater accompany the walker on sunny coastal trails, while birdsong entertains them as they walk through the dramatic Avakas Gorge on the Akamas Peninsula. Hikers might spot shy mouflon (a type of wild sheep) hopping skilfully on the steep slopes in Paphos Forest and the wild donkeys staring curiously at people on the Karpaz/Karpass Peninsula.

      In the centre of the island, in the Troodos mountains, zigzagging footpaths lead to small, hidden churches and Byzantine monasteries – many of which are on the UNESCO Word Heritage List for their unique architecture and colourful frescos. Winding nature trails on pine-covered slopes with stunning views give walkers the opportunity to admire the beauty of these mountains.

      Meanwhile, with castles proudly perched on rocks and mysterious monasteries in the shade of mighty trees, the thin, dramatic Kyrenia mountain range stretches across almost the entire length of Northern Cyprus.

      In every season the island has its own magic to share with visitors. In some winters, snow covers the mountain peaks of Troodos, and Cyprus has Europe’s most southerly ski resort. In spring, streams grow wider and colourful wildflowers carpet the meadows, while in the peak of summer the hazy air is filled with the chirping of cicadas. In autumn, families gather together to harvest grapes that grow on sunny slopes. At any time of the year elderly people are often found gossiping in front of their homes on the narrow streets of peaceful villages.

      After a day spent exploring the trails, walkers might enjoy a well-deserved dinner in a rustic restaurant in one of the seaside towns or villages. Cypriot cuisine is strongly related to Greek and Turkish cuisine but with a local twist; fresh vegetables, olives, halloumi cheese, meat, fish and Greek yoghurt are among the ingredients common to traditional Cypriot food. Wine is a necessary accompaniment for local dishes, and in Cyprus people have been making it for thousands of years. Commandaria, the sweet dessert wine, is believed to be the oldest named wine in the world: it was served at the wedding of Richard the Lionheart in Limassol and the king was so impressed that he pronounced Commandaria ‘the wine of kings and the king of wines’.

      The Profitis Elias chapel among the vineyards near Pano Panagia (Walk 7)

      Due to its location, the island played a significant role in trading from around 3000BC and through the medieval centuries. It has belonged to different empires in its eventful past, with numerous artefacts and remains of ancient buildings around the island attesting to its diverse culture and troubled history. However, unlike other Mediterranean islands, it is not only the distant past that has left its legacy: after the island gained independence in 1960, tensions between the Greek and Turkish Cypriot communities grew, resulting in an eventual coup by the Greek Cypriots and an invasion by Turkey. The UN-controlled buffer zone (known as the ‘Green Line’) that runs like a long scar across the island, dividing its inhabitants, demonstrates that the recent past is still affecting the lives of many in Cyprus. This, as well as the island’s earlier history, is described further in ‘Brief history’.

      However, while Cyprus may be politically divided, the amazing scenery can be enjoyed on both sides of the island regardless of political views. Cypriots