Walking in Slovenia: The Karavanke. Justi Carey

all along this section of the ridge (Walks 4–8), including Hruški vrh and Klek.

      Narcissi in full bloom on the Karavanke with Triglav and the Julian Alps in the background (Walk 4)

      Walks 9–12 are on and around the highest Karavanke peak, Stol (2236m); Walk 9, Ajdna, visits the archaeological site of the highest ancient village in Slovenia, while Walks 10–12 climb the mountain and its close neighbour, Vajnež, providing stunning 360-degree views.

      The valley base now moves to Tržič, a small town below the road pass of Ljubelj which crosses into Austria. Walk 13, Dobrča, is a mostly forested hill, an outlier of the main range, but it boasts a viewpoint which gives terrific views into the next section of the Karavanke above and around the Ljubelj Pass. This area is covered by Walks 14–19, with grassy planinas (high-alp or open areas with pasture and, on most of them, herders’ buildings) and shepherds’ huts giving way to the dramatic ridges falling steeply away to the north.

      After Košuta (Walk 19) the main ridge of the Karavanke begins to break up, and the final walks stand alone in great massifs, typically with an east–west orientation. Walk 20 is something of an anomaly – Hochobir is the only major peak of the Karavanke to lie entirely in Austria. It is perhaps a little bit harder to get to, but you will be amply rewarded by the beautiful waterfall on the lower part of the walk and the different perspective from the summit. Walks 21 and 22, Olševa and Peca, visit less well-known mountain areas of Slovenia and are worth savouring over two or three days. Olševa is near the stunning Logarska dolina mountain valley, one of the true highlights of Slovenia, and could be visited during a trip to that area. Peca is somewhat off the main tourist routes but this beautiful mountain and the protected Topla Valley are worth the effort of getting there. Walk 23, Uršlja gora, with its pretty summit church, is the last peak of the Karavanke – or is it the first?

When to go

      The main walking season is from mid-June to the end of September, when most of the walks are snow-free and the weather is generally stable. The high mountain huts are usually open from July to September, but the lower ones may be open for longer or even all year round – see www.pzs.si. The Karavanke, being south-facing and with a highest summit of only 2236m, can be walked outside this main season, but earlier than the beginning of May or later than the end of October the weather becomes unsettled and snow is likely, while many tourist facilities will already be closed. Winter is not appropriate for mountain walking in Slovenia, although you will be welcome for the skiing, snowshoeing and ski-touring!

      Slovenia is criss-crossed by beautiful woodland trails (Walk 14)

Getting there

      Most travel information is out of date almost as soon as it gets into print, particularly in these days of online bookings, so only a rough guide is given here – shop around and check for up-to-date information through tourist agencies or on the internet before you go.

      Red tape

      Citizens of most European countries, Australia, Canada, New Zealand and the US do not require a visa to visit Slovenia for up to 90 days. Slovenia has had open borders with the 25 countries of the Schengen Agreement since 2007.

      By air

      Several airlines, including the budget carriers Easyjet and Wizz Air, fly into Jože Pučnik International Airport at Brnik, 23km north of the capital Ljubljana. Adrija Airways is the national carrier (www.adria-airways.com), with flights to Brnik from most major European cities, and especially the European hubs of Frankfurt and Munich. The budget airline Easyjet (www.easyjet.com) flies to Ljubljana from London Stansted, while Wizz Air (www.wizzair.com) flies from London Luton to Ljubljana. Flights from the US require a change somewhere in Europe. Another possibility for air connections, especially for the two walks that start in Austria, is Klagenfurt in Austria, served by the budget airline Ryanair (www.ryanair.com) and also by Air Berlin (www.airberlin.com).

      By train

      International railway stations with links to northern and southern Europe include Ljubljana and Jesenice – the latter is particularly convenient for most of the Karavanke walks. Trains run to Villach in Austria from Ljubljana via Jesenice; there you can change for Klagenfurt. The website www.slo-zeleznice.si gives train timetables within Slovenia, and www.oebb.at is the Austrian rail site.

Travelling within Slovenia

      By car

      Slovenia has a good road transport network, with motorways linking all the major centres. Some of the walks are difficult to access by public transport and a car makes life a lot easier in the rural areas described here; cars can be hired at the airports and in reasonably sized towns.

      Public transport

      Slovenia has a modern and efficient system of public transport by train and bus, which serves most, but not all, of the rural villages adequately or even well. For bus timetables www.vozni-red.si will help you, although its English translation is a little shaky at times. Enter the start point and the destination to get the timetable, but remember that it is a good idea to check the times with the local tourist information office or on the timetable displayed at all bus stops. For trains use www.slo-zeleznice.si, which has an English version, but again, check before you travel. Generally, in Slovenia it is cheaper to take the train than the bus.

      In most cases you will fly to the international airport at Brnik; buses run every hour from here to the main bus and train station in Ljubljana. Onward buses leave from outside the train station. If you are taking a train, note that it is a good five-minute walk from the ticket office to most of the platforms.

      Addresses

      In towns, the streets have names (ulica and cesta for street and road), with the number following the street name (for example, Prešernova ulica 23), but in villages the houses tend to be identified simply with the name of the village and a number.

Accommodation

      The large towns of Slovenia have the full range of accommodation, from five-star hotels to cheap hostels, and prices are generally reasonable compared to other European countries. A small tourist tax is payable for each night, and proprietors of all types of accommodation will need to see your passport. Information and booking can be found in the tourist information office or on the town’s website.

      Dom na Zelenici (Walk 16)

      Mountain huts are called dom or koča in Slovene – a dom is usually larger but otherwise there is no difference in the type of facilities available. Mountain huts are ubiquitous in Slovenia and are part of the country’s culture. They are divided into categories depending on their proximity to the nearest road, and the prices of both meals and accommodation are fixed by this. Sleeping accommodation is in dormitories or rooms, with rooms being more expensive. Bedding, including blankets, sheets and pillowcases, is provided, so there is no need to carry a sleeping bag. Prices are cheaper if you are a member of the Slovene Alpine Club PZS (Planinska zveza Slovenije), and there are reciprocal agreements with the alpine clubs of some other countries. The lower huts usually have running water and often showers, but the higher huts have no water except rainwater, which means limited washing facilities. The high huts may be busy in good weather in July and August, and it is a good idea to book in advance.