Tour of the Oisans: The GR54. Kev Reynolds

attention from the 24hr, seven-days-a-week experience of the trek.

      WHAT TO TAKE

       Good footwear is of prime importance. Lightweight boots should fit well, be comfortable, provide sound ankle support and have thick cleated soles (Vibram or similar) with plenty of grip.

       Socks – make sure they meet your needs, and change them daily to avoid discomfort.

       Waterproofs are essential, not only for rain protection but also to double as windproofs. Lightweight jacket and overtrousers made from a ‘breathable’ fabric are recommended, as is a small collapsible umbrella (indispensable for those who wear glasses).

       Even in midsummer wintry conditions can be experienced above 2000m on sunless or windy days, so a fleece or pile jacket ought to be included, plus a warm hat and gloves. Note that one of the simplest and most effective ways of regulating body temperature is either to put on or remove your hat and gloves.

       As well as protection against wet and cold, you need to be prepared for extremes of sunshine and heat – the intensity of UV rays increases by 10 percent with every 1000m of altitude gained. A brimmed hat, high-factor suncream, lipsalve and sunglasses should therefore be taken. Wear lightweight layers that can be removed easily in hot weather.

       Carry a compact first aid kit, water bottle (1 litre minimum capacity), guidebook, map, whistle, compass, and a small torch with spare bulb and battery. Also a light penknife and emergency food.

       Take a lightweight towel and basic personal toiletries (plus toilet paper and lighter), and a sheet sleeping bag for use in gîtes and refuges.

       Telescopic trekking poles have numerous uses, will not only aid balance on some trails or when crossing streams, but will also ease the strain on legs during the many steep descents.

       Your rucksack should fit comfortably, with the waistbelt adjusted to take the weight and eliminate unnecessary movement when walking. It ought to be possible to keep the weight of your equipment down to an absolute maximum of 10kg. A waterproof cover is highly recommended, and a large polythene bag in which to pack your gear inside the rucksack will safeguard items from getting damp in the event of bad weather. A selection of plastic bags of assorted sizes will also be useful.

       An ice axe should be carried if you plan to walk the Tour of the Oisans at the start of the season when snow and/or ice may be encountered.

      The standard GR waymark followed throughout the trek

      The X indicates that the route does not go this way

      Above Bourg d'Arud, local signs have been adapted for the GR54

Recommended Map

      The Carte de Randonnées hiking map, A6 Écrins, published by Rando Éditions at 1:50,000 should be more than adequate for trekkers walking the Tour of the Oisans. The standard of cartography and artistic representation are excellent, although the rate of glacial recession is a challenge for every new edition. Based on the official survey by the IGN (Institut Géographique National), the route of GR54 and its variantes are outlined in red. Refuges and most gîtes d'étape are also clearly marked, while the boundaries of the Parc National des Écrins are delineated with a bold green outline.

      The map has a 2km square grid and is GPS compatible, and below the Key a number of useful telephone numbers are given – but make sure you have the latest edition, or some of these might be out of date.

Safety in the Mountains

      Mountains contain a variety of objective dangers for the unwary, and the Massif des Écrins (around which the tour makes its circuit) is no exception. Without overstating the risk factor it should be borne in mind that with a number of narrow and exposed paths, as well as some extremely steep ascents and descents to negotiate, a high degree of concentration will be called for, even under good conditions. A moment's carelessness could have serious repercussions.

      The following list contains commonsense suggestions based on years of experience, and is offered as a means of avoiding mishaps. With care, and attention to detail, the chances are that you'll experience nothing more distressing than a small blister.

      The original Refuge de Vallonpierre (Stage 6)

      SAFETY DO'S AND DON'TS

       Don't attempt the Tour of the Oisans too early or too late in the year.

       Ensure you are both physically and mentally prepared for the challenge.

       Plan each day's stage carefully. Study the route outline, taking account of the amount of height gain and loss, and the estimated time required to reach your destination.

       If you intend to stay overnight in a mountain refuge, phone ahead to book a place.

       Check the weather forecast with the gîte owner or refuge gardien before setting out.

       Carry a few emergency rations and a first aid kit.

       Watch for signs of deteriorating weather, and never be too proud to turn back should it be safer to do so than continue in the face of an oncoming storm, or on a trail that has become unjustifiably dangerous.

       If your plans change and you decide against continuing to the refuge or gîte where you are expected, telephone at the earliest opportunity to let them know.

       Do not venture onto exposed ridges if a storm is imminent. In the event of being caught out by one avoid isolated trees, prominent rocks or metallic objects (temporarily discard trekking poles), and refrain from taking shelter in caves, beneath overhanging rocks or in gullies. Instead kneel or squat on your rucksack, with head down and hands on knees.

       In the unhappy event of an accident, stay calm. Move yourself and, if possible, the injured person (with care not to aggravate the injury) away from any imminent danger of stonefall or avalanche, and apply immediate first aid. Keep the victim warm, using any spare clothing available. Make a written note of the precise location where the victim can be found, and either telephone for assistance using a mobile phone (if available and you can get a signal), or send for help while someone remains with the injured member – assuming, that is, you're in a party of more than two people. Should a mountain hut be nearby, seek assistance there. If valley habitation is nearer, find a telephone and dial 112 (emergency number), or contact the PGHM on 04 92 22 22 22. Should it be impossible to go for help, the international mountain distress signal (given at the front of this guide) is: six blasts on a whistle (and flashes with a torch after dark) spaced evenly for one minute, followed by a minute's pause. Repeat for as long as is necessary. The response is three signals per minute followed by a minute's pause.

      Remember…

      There is no free rescue service in the Alps, and the cost of an emergency could be extremely expensive. Be adequately insured, and be cautious. The addresses of several specialist insurance companies whose policies cover mountain walking/trekking will be found in Appendix B. It is advisable to leave a copy of this policy at home with a friend or family member, and take the original with you. Reduced cost (sometimes free) urgent medical treatment is available to EU citizens carrying a European health insurance card (EHIC), which replaces the old form E111. However, payment is usually required at the time of treatment, so make sure you have insurance cover. The free booklet Health Advice for Travellers, available from post offices in the UK, gives details of entitlement.

The Parc National des Écrins

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