Tour of the Oisans: The GR54. Kev Reynolds

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      About the Author

      Kev Reynolds first tackled the Tour of the Oisans in the early 1990s, returned a few years later to research a walking guide to the Écrins National Park (when he trekked most of the GR54 again), then concentrated on the route in the summer of 2007 before producing this present guide. He has been walking and climbing in the Alps for more than 40 years, and has written over 20 titles concerning Europe's premier mountain range. A freelance author, photojournalist and lecturer, Kev's first guide for Cicerone Press (Walks & Climbs in the Pyrenees) appeared in 1978, and is still in print. He has also published a number of trekking guides to Nepal and, nearer to home, several guides on walking in southern England. As well as compiling guidebooks he regularly writes features for the outdoor press, and produces brochures for tourist authorities. The first honorary member of the British Association of International Mountain Leaders (BAIML), and a member of the Alpine Club, Austrian Alpine Club and Outdoor Writers' and Photographers' Guild (OWPG), Kev's enthusiasm for the countryside in general, and mountains in particular, remains undiminished after a lifetime's activity. When not trekking in one of the world's great ranges he lives among what he calls ‘the Kentish Alps’, and during the winter months regularly travels throughout Britain to convey that enthusiasm through his lectures. Check him out on www.kevreynolds.co.uk

      Cicerone titles by Kev Reynolds

      Alpine Points of View

      Walking in the Alps

      100 Hut Walks in the Alps

      Tour of Mont Blanc

      Tour of the Vanoise

      Tour of the Jungfrau Region

      Alpine Pass Route

      Chamonix to Zermatt – the Walkers' Haute Route

      The Écrins National Park

      Walking in the Engadine

      Walking in the Valais

      The Bernese Alps

      Walking in Ticino

      Central Switzerland

      Walks & Climbs in the Pyrenees

      The Pyrenees

      Walking in Kent

      Walking in Sussex

      The South Downs Way

      The North Downs Way

      The Cotswold Way

      Annapurna – a Trekker's Guide

      Everest – a Trekker's Guide

      Manaslu – a Trekker's Guide

      Kangchenjunga – a Trekker's Guide

      Langtang, Helambu & Gosainkund – a Trekker's Guide

      TOUR OF THE OISANS THE GR54

      by

      Kev Reynolds

      2 POLICE SQUARE, MILNTHORPE, CUMBRIA LA7 7PY

       www.cicerone.co.uk

      © Kev Reynolds 2008

      ISBN-13: 978-1-85284-550-6

      A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library

      All photographs by the author except those on pages 19, 22, 28, 34, 46, 52, 54 (lower photo), 72, 76, 103 and 115 which were taken by Jonathan Williams.

      Acknowledgements

      The late Andrew Harper wrote the first English-language guide to the Tour of the Oisans in 1986, and his enthusiasm for the route inspired my first visit. That was undertaken as a full backpacking trek, and having failed to learn the lesson I foolishly carried tent, food and cooking equipment on my second venture round much of the route several years later. Happily, when Jonathan Williams suggested we trek the Tour of the Oisans together to research this guide, he insisted (without any opposition from me) that we travel light and use conventional gîte, hotel or refuge accommodation. So my first expression of thanks is to him, especially for his good-humoured company, generosity and patience along the way. Jeff Williams was to have written this guide for Cicerone, but when circumstances got in the way he magnanimously offered me his route notes and observations, and then, with Maryann his wife, provided welcome hospitality and assistance with transport. I offer them both my warmest thanks for their open friendship. As ever I am indebted to the Cicerone team in Milnthorpe, for they are the talented folk who transform the skeleton of my manuscript into the book you hold in your hands. Mine are the pleasures of spending weeks among the mountains with tape recorder, notebook and camera, but editor Sue Viccars, along with Hazel, Caroline and Clare put their skills and talents to my advantage, and I am truly grateful to them. And finally, it is my wife whose love and support makes every mountain trip possible. This book is also hers.

      Advice to Readers

      Readers are advised that while every effort is taken by the author to ensure the accuracy of this guidebook, changes can occur which may affect the contents. It is advisable to check locally on transport, accommodation, shops, etc, but even rights of way can be altered. The publisher would welcome notes of any such changes.

      Front cover: Lac de Vallonpierre and the original refuge visited on Stage 6

      CONTENTS

       Introduction

       The Route

       Suggested Itineraries

       Accommodation

       How to Get There

       When to Go

       Notes for Walkers

       Equipment

       Recommended Map

       Safety in the Mountains

       The Parc National des Écrins

       Alpine Flowers and Wildlife

       Using the Guide

       Information at a Glance

       Tour of the Oisans

       Part 1 Bourg d'Oisans to Vallouise

       Stage 1 Bourg d'Oisans – Besse-en-Oisans

       Stage 2 Besse-en-Oisans – La Grave

       Stage 3 La Grave – Monêtier-les-Bains

       Stage 4 Monêtier-les-Bains – Vallouise

       Part 2 Vallouise to Bourg d'Oisans

       Stage 5 Vallouise – Refuge du Pré de la Chaumette