Via Ferratas of the Italian Dolomites: Vol 2. John Smith

with large chock-stones in a further 10 minutes. Soon after crossing the gully there is an exposed move around a corner, and 10 minutes further on a large cairn indicates the path up to the highest peak of the Latemar group, Torre Diamantidi, 2842m (also known as Torri Di Latemar and Latemarturme). The climb to the Torre Diamantidi summit is optional; it’s about 100m (15 minutes) of additional uphill effort zigzagging up scree slopes and about 10 minutes for the descent.

      Offset ladder on descent at east end of BOLZ 1

      If you choose to continue without the ascent of Torre Diamantidi, a good path continues ahead, passing the descent-path rejoin-point after only a few minutes. Following a very exposed unprotected down-climb, intermittent cabling leads in 10 minutes to an unusual vertical ladder with offset rungs; this is about 12m long and feels quite strange, with each step of down-climb having your feet at different heights. Some serious rock fall has occurred close to the ladder; it is not a place to hang around. Cross the gully (where the cable is quite high in the air) and climb up to a ledge where there is a view of Biv. M Rigati. Cables lead down from here to Forcella Grande and the bivuoac, 2620m, the ferrata thus taking about 1½ hours to complete. The bivouac is an open shelter with beds for nine people. It is possible to climb Cima Latemar, 2791m (also known as Schenon) from Forcella Grande. It is exposed in places, and ascent and descent would add at least an hour to the route timings for the day.

      The return route is on path 18, which traverses back along the steep slopes of Torre Diamantidi around the 2600m contour. It is not well marked from the bivuoac, but follow a zigzag path down heading roughly south-east for a couple of minutes to a clear signpost. Path 18 heads east from this point to Passo Costalunga in 3 hours, and west (the direction for your return) back to Rif. Torre di Pisa in 2 hours. Simply follow the waymarks, with some exposed places, but nothing like those you have encountered on the ferrata, back to the junction of paths 18/516 and 511 below Forcella dei Campanili; this takes 35–40 minutes.

      You can retrace the approach route back via the rifugio, but there is a different (and quite scenic) return to Maier Alm via Forcella dei Camosci. Either way, continue on path 18/516 back to Forcella la Forcellone, and if you are returning by the outward route follow the waymarks back to Rif. Torre di Pisa. However, we recommend following a good (though not waymarked) path which avoids further height loss and rises steadily from Forcella la Forcellone to Forcella dei Camosci in about 35 minutes.

      From Forcella dei Camosci a short cable (easy handrail only) leads down a broken gully into a rock bowl (another place where there may be some snow early season). Follow waymarks, and in a few minutes see a warning triangle reading ‘STOP’ painted on a rock ahead. Path 18 turns 90 degrees right (heading generally north) here and goes through a spectacular narrow valley with towering peaks on either side. After 15–20 minutes the path exits the towering peaks to a steep zigzag descent on scree and broken ground. Keep an eye on the waymarks on the descent and simply follow path 18 down to the top of the Oberholz chair at about 2100m. Turn left to head south on fairly level ground on path 23 back to Maier Alm in about 20 minutes. Total descent time from Forcella Grande is 2¾–3 hours.

BOLZ 2

      VF Attilio Sieff – Punta Polse

Grade:	2
Seriousness:	A
Departure point:	Ziano di Fiemme
Ascent:	500m
Descent:	500m
Via ferrata:	100m
Approximate time:	3 hours
Highest altitude:	1450m
Map:	Tabacco Carta Topographica 1:25,000 Sheet 014

      Ziano is in Val di Fiemme at the southern most end of Val di Fassa (see Via Ferratas of the Italian Dolomites, volume 1, for details of routes in that area). It is accessible by bus from Bolzano and Trento, and accommodation can be found at the ski resorts of Predazzo and Cavalese (information from www.aptfiemme.tn.it, email [email protected], tel. [phone]).

      A short but pleasant route at a quite low altitude making it useful for a short day (even late afternoon) outing when weather may be unsuitable for climbing a higher-level route. Protection is good throughout, and although Punta Polse is not a high summit it has a very good view.

      In the village of Ziano parking is restricted, but there is a car park in the centre of the village close to the church and supermarket. From the main street take Via Zanon (opposite Zorri Max wine distributor). The approach to the ferrata is waymarked from the end of this road; it zigzags up through the trees for about an hour to the start of the route. You simply follow the ferrata to the summit of Punta Polse; it only takes about 30 minutes ascent and the same for the descent. Initially the ferrata follows a broad gully before moving up to the left on good rock with strategically placed pegs. Once you have enjoyed the view from the summit, climb down the route and retrace the approach path back down to Ziano.

BOLZ 3

      Monte Roen

Grade:	2
Seriousness:	A
Departure point:	Roen, Passo della Mendola
Ascent:	750m (950m if Testa Nera is included)
Descent:	750m (950m if Testa Nera is included)
Via ferrata:	100m
Approximate time:	4½–5 hours (7 hours if Testa Nera is included)
Highest altitude:	2116m
Map:	Tabacco map 049

      Passo della Mendola is 24km from Bolzano above the town of Caldaro; it has plenty of accommodation and is accessible by bus from Bolzano or the funicular railway from Caldaro (information from the Val di Non Tourist Office, tel. [phone], www.valdinon.cim.it, email [email protected]).

      The ferrata is quite short, but with an excellent round walk on good paths; the wonderful views from the summit of Monte Roen make this route well worth doing if you are in the area, even though it is out on a limb in relation to other ferrata routes.

      From Passo della Mendola a good road (signed Roen 1.5km) leads south to a large car park by the Campi-Golf chairlift (open from mid-July to early September, and occasional weekends in May and June). Path 500 leads you up the wide ski piste by the side of the chairlift. At the top of the ski piste (about 30 minutes) follow signs leading right to Rif. Mezzavia and Rif. Oltradige. Go down to the side of Rif. Mezzavia and path 500 turns left. In a couple of minutes you ignore a CAI sign ‘Bellavista, Monte Lira’, and simply follow the waymarks for path 500 as it works its way up through woods for about 45 minutes to Rifugio Malga Roen, 1769m. It is a privately owned rifugio which has good food and nine beds (open end of May to end of October, tel. [phone]).

      Path 500 was previously numbered 521, which is still shown on some maps.