Kendo. Geoff Salmon

Female ¾^th inch (24mm) 1 inch (25mm) 1 inch (25mm) Minimum length of sakigawa Male and Female 2 inches (50mm) 2 inches (50mm) 2 inches (50mm)

FIK Specifications for Competition use of two Shinai (Nito).
Specification	Gender	Daito (long shinai)	Shoto (short shinai)
Maximum length	Male & female	45 inches (114cm)	24 inches (62cm)
Weight	Male	16 ounce (440g) minimum	10-11 ounce (280-300g) maximum
Female	14 ounce (400g) minimum	8-10 ounces (250-280g) maximum
Minimum diameter of sakigawa	Male	1 inch (25mm)	¾th inch (24mm)
Female	¾th inch (24mm)	¾th inch (24mm)

      These lengths are however generally referred to by the old Japanese shaku and sun measurement; 3.7, 3.8, and 3.9 equate respectively to 45 inches (114cm), 46 inches (117cm) and 47 inches (120cm). Although there appears to be no regulation banning longer or shorter shinai for practice, these sizes are used universally in everyday training. In competition it is acceptable to shorten a shinai given that it still reaches the regulated weight.

      Although length and weight are regulated, there is still a wide choice of shinai styles. The two main types are dobari and koto. Dobari shinai are shaped with a bulge below the tsuba and tend to feel lighter than the traditional koto shinai, which has a straight blade or jinbu and where the balance is more toward the tip.

      Shinai styles

      Other options are based around handle size and shape. Round handles are the norm but koban or oval handles are also available. These feel more like using a katana and tend not to accidentally slip round in your hands. The obvious disadvantage is that as the individual take are of uneven sizes, it is harder to repair a koban shinai by substituting a single take.

      There is also a wide variety of grip diameters. Many shinai makers have started to make a variety of “fat handles” to fit bigger hands. Some of these are a little too big for all but the most ham fisted. It is best to choose a grip size that comfortably fits your hand but leaves room for you to maneuver with your tenouchi.

      The length of the handle or tsuka is important as this can affect your cutting action. The tsuka should fit in the crook of your right arm so that when you grip it your index finger should be just below the tsuba. Many shinai come complete with leather fittings, but in cases where the bamboo and the fittings are bought separately, many kendoka will purchase a 3.8 tsukagawa for a 3.9 shinai. The tsukagawa tends to stretch in keiko and may need shortening at some stage. In some cases this can be done by turning the front of the tsukagawa back, but in others it is easier to cut and reclose the hilt end.

      Depending on source of the bamboo and whether shinai are machine or handmade there is a wide variety of price. The most expensive can be 10 times the cost of the cheapest. Japanese grown madake shinai command a premium price as bamboo grown in colder climates tends to be denser and stronger than that grown in hotter Southeast Asian countries. It is sometimes possible to tell the source of bamboo by the number of ridges on the shinai as cold climate bamboo grows slower.

      Unfortunately there is no guarantee that an expensive shinai will last longer than a cheap one.

      If, on the other hand, you need a long lasting shinai, you can always purchase a carbon fiber version. These are comparatively expensive but seldom break or go out of shape. The potential disadvantages are that they are less flexible and responsive than bamboo.

      Shinai Maintenance

      Shinai should be regularly examined for splinters and sanded if they appear. You should also check the inside of the take for cracks and splits. If a take is damaged it should be replaced. For this reason many people buy shinai in pairs of the same size and configuration so that they can marry the take. In my experience though, these “Frankenshinai” seldom last long.

      There are a variety of views on oiling and waxing shinai to prolong their life. I believe that it helps to keep the shinai for a few months before use, as this gives it time to adjust to the local humidity. As mentioned, you can buy shinai with or without the leather fittings. There are pros and cons to buying them with or without. If you buy with fittings, a professional shinai maker or bogu shop will use a machine to ensure a good fit for the tsukagawa. Buying the bamboo only, allows you to examine the shinai for uniformity of thickness. If you buy the bamboo and parts separately or take the shinai apart to make repairs, here is what you need to do to tie or retie the parts.

      Tying the Sakigawa

      Pull the tsuru through the left hole and loop over the top of the sakigawa passing through the right hole.

      Make a loop with the long part of the Tsuru.

      Pull the other end through the loop then over and under the descending string

      Take back though the loop and pull tight.

      Tying the Nakayui

      It should be tied one quarter of the total shinai length from the kisaki.

      Loop nakayui over taut tsuru by pulling through the slot cut in the end. (In version 2 you can change the nakayui without untying the tsuru by pulling the end of the nakayui through the slot in the other end.)

      Wind three times around the take and pull back under the last turn.

      Take backwards and forwards in a figure of eight (2 or 3 times).

      Secure by tucking under the top of the tied nakayui and cut off excess.

      Tying the Tsukagawa (one of several ways depending on fitting)

      Make a loop in the tsuru and pull through a second loop pulling tight.

      Pass loose end through “v” of leather fitting on tsukagawa. Take back through loop in tsuru taking over and under straight part of leather fitting and pulling tight.

      Take under tsuru, pull up to top of leather “v,” compressing it by winding string around and continue to do so, so that it is covered.

      Pull end through taught tsuru and tie in a knot, cutting surplus string and pushing the end under the wound string.

      Reigi

      “Kendo begins and ends with rei.”

      The above statement works on two levels; we begin and finish each practice with a bow and kendo is built on the ethos of respect and courtesy.

      You will hear the term reigi continually throughout your kendo career, but to clarify terminology, reigi refers to the spirit of respect and courtesy and reiho or reigi saho, its physical expression. Reigi does not just apply to our behavior in the dojo, but should be part of our day to day interaction with others. I,