Through the Italian Alps. Gillian Price

entry into the Graian Alps, a series of stiff climbs across high scenic passes, destination the Gran Paradiso National Park. Noasca (Stage 29) is a suitable point to bail out.

       7 days From Piedicavallo (Stage 41) in pretty Valle Cervo, the GTA hones in on Monte Rosa, each day offering new angles on the glaciated massif. Picturesque Walser villages are visited and the trek’s conclusion incorporated (Stage 47).

      Main peaks

      The GTA encounters an impressive string of major alpine peaks, each a worthwhile objective in its own right. Walkers with basic climbing experience can tackle the Marguareis and Rocciamelone, while the Argentera, Monviso, Gran Paradiso and Monte Rosa are reserved for experienced mountaineers or those accompanied by a guide. Mid–late summer is the recommended period for ascents so as to minimise chances of encountering icy conditions. For further details see Appendix II.

When to Go

      As is the rule throughout the Alps the midsummer months from late June to mid-September are ideal for this trek. From early July the highest passes will normally be snow-free and – most importantly – all accommodation will be open. Typical summer conditions will enable you to walk in a T-shirt, shorts and sunhat, the heat tempered by occasional downpours and storms; but ‘once-in-a-blue-moon’ dumps of snow – even in August – should not be discounted. The ranges on the very edge of the Piedmont plain are sometimes enshrouded in insidious mist that rises from the lower altitudes where it forms in midsummer. Visibility is obviously spoilt and vigilance essential to keep on the right track. (Bottom line: be prepared for everything!) The onset of autumn can bring gloriously clear skies (if chilly air), a wonderful time for those used to bivouacking under the stars when needs be. Late spring is also suitable for self-sufficient experienced walkers prepared to deal with substantial snow cover. Many posto tappa hostels adjoining a restaurant or hotel are open all year round, and make perfect bases for day excursions out of season.

      The busiest period for Italian holidaymakers is the first half of August. In addition to the Christmas–New Year–Epiphany period and Easter, there are public holidays on 25 April, 1 May, 2 June, 15 August, 1 November and 8 December.

Getting There

      See the general map (p.7) for rail and road networks.

      By air

      Thanks to the proximity of international airports in northwestern Italy and neighbouring France and Switzerland, access to the GTA – and away at its conclusion – is straightforward. (See table on opposite page.)

      Handy for the trek’s conclusion, the city of Domodossola has both a direct train service to Geneva airport (3hr) as well as a special shuttle bus to Milan’s Malpensa airport (reservations essential at 0324 240333 or www.comazzibus.com). There are also frequent trains to Milan.

      By rail

      Northwest Italy is served by scores of long-haul international trains from France and Switzerland, the majority calling at Milan or Turin. Unless travelling on an international route or long-distance at peak times, seat reservation is not necessary and fares reasonable. Note The FS Italian Rail is now introducing cheap fares on some routes – for special offers check out the web site www.trenitalia.com, also useful for timetable information.

      By road

      Several major toll-paying autostrada arteries feed into northwest Italy from France via the Mediterranean coast and Ventimiglia; further north from Modane via Bardonecchia to Susa; through the Mont Blanc tunnel and a motorway down Valle d’Aosta. There are also myriad minor roads crossing passes from Switzerland.

      To the start of the GTA

      Trains from Turin’s Porta Nuova station run south to Ceva, where a change must be made for the single-track line to Ormea. Services from the Italian Riviera via Savona also stop at Ceva, as do those from Cuneo via Fossano or Mondovì. Ormea can also be reached by road thanks to the Imperia–Cuneo coach. From Ormea a July–August shuttle bus covers the final 15.4km to the actual start of the GTA at Viozene, but check with the local Tourist Office 0174 392157 as it does not run daily; you may need to call a taxi ( 0174 391503).

      Access to the start for Parts II–IV is detailed in the route description, as are the many exits.

      FLIGHT DESTINATIONS FROM THE UK

      Both low-cost and regular airlines from the UK fly into the following destinations (check the individual airport’s web sites if flights from other countries are needed).

       Turin (Torino): Caselle Airport (www.aeroportoditorino.it) to the north of the city has flights from British Airways (www.britishairways.com), Easyjet (www.easyjet.com) and Ryanair (www.ryanair.com). Trains then convey passengers to the centre of Turin in 20min; the coach takes twice as long.

       Milan (Milano) has two airports, both included on www.sea-aeroportimilano.it: Malpensa is served by Alitalia (www.alitalia.it) and British Airways. The best way to cover the 50km into town is by bus to Gallarate station then train to Milano Centrale. Better placed is Linate: with flights by Alitalia, British Airways, British Midland (www.flybmi.com) and Easyjet, it is linked by regular buses to central Milan (7km away), from where ongoing trains reach Turin in just under 2hr.

       Genoa (Genova, www.airport.genova.it) has flights operated by Alitalia, British Airways and Ryanair. Buses run to Genova Brignole railway station every 30min for the 3–4hr trip via Savona to Ceva (or Cuneo).

       Just over the border in France, Nice’s Côte d’Azur airport (www.nice.aeroport.fr) is served by British Airways, British Midland and Jet2 (www.Jet2.com). After the short bus trip to the railway station Nice Ville, passengers embark on a scenic 3hr trip via the Roya valley to Cuneo.

       The airport at Geneva in neighbouring Switzerland (www.gva.ch) has flights by British Airways, Easyjet and Jet2. A convenient train heads south for the 4.5hr trip via Domodossola to Milan, from where there are plenty of runs for Turin. (It is only marginally faster but more complicated to change at Domodossola for connections via Novara to Turin.)

Local Transport

      The alpine valleys traversed by the GTA are served by a decent network of buses and the odd train, aiding walkers who need to enter/exit at intermediate points. Information is given at the relevant stages in the route description, and contact details for the transport companies are listed below in the order encountered on the GTA.

      Assistance concerning public transport for the whole of Piedmont can be obtained at toll-free 800 990097 (011 6910000 from a mobile phone) or www.regione.piemonte.it/prontotrasporti.

      Italian State Rail is 892021 or www.trenitalia.com.