Backpacker's Britain: Northern Scotland. Graham Uney

Hamnavoe to the Burn of Tingon. This can occasionally be difficult to cross and you may have to head inland a short way to find a safe place. North of here you’ll come to the Hole of Geuda near the Geo of Ockran, another fine bay with a waterfall pouring into it from the hill above. Continue around Ockran Head and on past Clew Head to the superb headland of the Faither, which gives good views eastwards of Lang Ayre, the biggest beach in the Shetland Islands, backed by Ronas Hill, the highest hill.

      Across Ronas Voe you can see the impressive Stonga Banks dropping to the beach at Lang Ayre. Above this rises Ronas Hill, at 450m the highest hill in the Shetland Islands, and enjoying almost arctic weather and terrain to match. There are many rare arctic plants growing here, and it is also a good place to see upland waders nesting in the summer.

      The seas north and west of the Faither are often a good place for whale watching. In summer you might be lucky enough to spot minke whales, sperm whales, killer whales or even humpback whales. There are also good numbers of dolphins and porpoises. In all, 22 species of cetacean have been recorded in the waters around Shetland.

      The route now leads southeastwards alongside Ronas Voe. You can either stay along the shoreline until you hit the minor road at Heylor, then follow that back to Urafirth, or continue along the shore only as far as the Stack of Sumra, then begin a slow climb up over rough grass and heather to Turning Hill. On Turning Hill you may see nesting great skuas, which will probably dive bomb you as you walk past.

      Continue southeastwards up to Septa Field, then on to the curious lake known as Gersfield Water. This is a good place to see red-throated divers, but be careful not to disturb them during the breeding season.

      Head south from the loch to the summit of White Grunafirth, where an OS trig pillar stands at 173m. From here head eastwards over rough ground to a track that takes you to Assater, then down to Upper Urafirth and the end of a fine walk.

WALK 2

      Shetland – Mainland South

Start	Scalloway Castle (grid ref HU404393). Catch a bus from Lerwick to Scalloway – there are regular buses daily.
Finish	Grutness, just south of Sumburgh airport (grid ref HU404100). Regular daily buses run to Lerwick from Grutness, or simply catch a plane home from Sumburgh airport.
Distance	68km (42.25 miles); Day 1 – 37km (23 miles), Day 2 – 31km (19.25 miles)
Total Ascent	Total: 1570m; Day 1 – 930m, Day 2 – 640m
Maps	OS Landranger sheet 4 Shetland, South Mainland
Number of Days	2

      The Shetland Islands offer such superb backpacking over rugged coastlines that you could spend weeks here and never tire of it. Of the group of islands making up the Shetlands, Mainland is by far the largest and offers good scope for the explorer on foot. South Mainland is a long, narrow peninsula, never more than a few kilometres wide east to west, but extending for some distance south of the capital of Shetland, Lerwick.

      Lerwick lies on the east coast of Mainland, about halfway down the length of this mainly north–south running land mass. On the opposite side of Mainland lies the only other town in these parts, Scalloway. The walk starts here and takes you southwards along the west coast of Mainland, through some wonderfully wild country with superb views out to the islands of Trondra and East and West Burra. There isn’t much in the way of habitation throughout the length of South Mainland, apart from a few settlements at the halfway point and the odd farm building, and this sense of remoteness makes this a truly memorable walk.

      Starting in Scalloway the route initially follows the quiet road towards the bridge leading over the Clift Sound to the island of Trondra, but here leaves all sight and sound of man’s presence behind. The long line of hills falling in steep slopes down into the Clift Sound are followed through to Maywick, from where more rocky coastal cliffs lead around to St Ninian’s Isle.

      The route then takes you around the Bay of Scousburgh and on to Fora Ness before making for impressive Fitful Head. The broad sands at the Bay of Quendale provide a change in scenery before the rugged headland at the Ness of Burgi and the superb walk around Sumburgh Head to Grutness.

      Tourist Information

      There is an excellent tourist information centre at the Market Cross in Lerwick, tel [phone], website www.visitshetland.com.

      Transport

      You can get to the Shetland Islands’ capital, Lerwick, by either air or ferry.

      Air For flights contact British Airways and their franchise partners Logan Air on 0845 7733377 – they make use of the main airport on Shetland at Sumburgh, 40km south of Lerwick – website www.loganair.co.uk.

      Ferry North Link Ferries operate comfortable ferries to Lerwick from Aberdeen or Stromness (Orkney), tel [phone], website www.northlinkferies.co.uk.

      Getting Around

      Buses There are regular bus services to Scalloway from Lerwick, and back from Grutness. Contact the Lerwick tourist information centre for details.

      Car Hire Try either Bolts Car Hire on 01595 693636, or Star Rent-a-Car on 01595 692075. Both have offices in Lerwick and at Sumburgh Airport.

      Accommodation and Supplies

      Lerwick For accommodation in Lerwick, try the Glen Orchy Guest House on 01595 692031, website www.guesthouselerwick.com, or the Alder Lodge Guest House on 01595 695705. The youth hostel is a cheaper option, and you can contact them direct on 01595 692114 (open April to September). There are plenty of shops, bars and restaurants in Lerwick.

      Scalloway Not a lot of choice here, but the Scalloway Hotel is situated conveniently in the centre of the village (tel [phone]). Also worth a try is Windward bed and breakfast (tel [phone]) or Broch House bed and breakfast (01595 880051) www.brochhouse.shetland.co.uk.

      Sumburgh Area For a comfortable night’s sleep there’s always the Sumburgh Hotel at Jarlshof (tel [phone]), www.sumburghhotel.com, whereas nearby you’ll find Betty Mouat’s Böd (tel [phone]) www.camping-bods.com.

      Overnight Options

      Either camp discreetly, or book a room at the superb Spiggie Hotel in Scousburgh (tel [phone]), www.thespiggiehotel.co.uk.

      Escape Routes

      There are roads running parallel to the coast to the east at most points of this walk, and although generally a couple of kilometres away at the furthest points, they do see regular traffic.

      Day 1

      Before heading out of town it’s worth having a good look around the sleepy streets of Scalloway.

      Head out of Scalloway on the main road towards Lerwick (A970). Walk over the road bridge that goes over the East Voe of Scalloway and turn right immediately. This is the B9074, leading towards the bridge over Clift Sound to the island of Trondra.

      A few hundred metres before this bridge, which is visible cutting across the channel, turn left to Easterhoull. Go