Backpacker's Britain: Northern Scotland. Graham Uney

numbers of deer are still increasing. This might sound like wonderful news in one sense, but it also means that there simply isn’t enough land to support the huge numbers of deer on it – a recent estimate is around 700,000 in the Highlands. Many deer starve to death in winter, but as breeding numbers are high, the population still continues to grow. So taking all this into account, you’d be very unlucky not to see at least some red deer while out backpacking in the wilds (although you won’t find deer in the Northern Isles).

      Of the larger birds, ravens, buzzards and golden eagles are the species most likely to be seen. Raven numbers are decreasing, but buzzards and golden eagles are doing very well. On all the mainland walks in this book you could enjoy good views of these birds, but again they are pretty much absent from the Northern Isles.

      Other predators to look out for include otters, the pine marten and Scottish wildcat. Of these, you are most likely to come across otters, particularly on any of the walks on the west coast, although there are also very high numbers in Shetland, and a fair few in Orkney, so if you’re quiet you might just be lucky.

      On ferry crossings you should look out for seals, both common and grey, while cetaceans (dolphins and whales) are often seen. In particular, you should keep your eyes peeled for bottle-nosed, common and even Risso’s dolphins, the minke whale and the harbour porpoise. Humpbacked whales have been seen around the Small Isles, and this also seems to be a fairly regular area for basking sharks.

      Back on dry land there are always red grouse on the moors, and here you should also see curlew, dunlin, snipe and golden plover in the breeding season. Mountain tops are not without wildlife either – you’ll find the snow bunting, ptarmigan and mountain hare.

      Sunset over the Black Cuillin from Knoydart (Walk 25)

      In woodland you might see the secretive roe deer, while the trees attract red squirrels and many small birds. In ancient pine forests, such as in Glen Affric, there’s also a chance of seeing the crested tit and Scottish crossbill, which is unique to Scots pines in the Highlands.

      All these species are best viewed from a distance – indeed, you will no success at all if you try getting too close to birds and mammals, and it is actually illegal to deliberately approach many nesting birds. It is obviously sensible not to try to get anywhere near deer, either, particularly during the rut, when the males will see you as competition – and they do have very big antlers!

      Flora

      It is also illegal to pick wild flowers, and there are plenty of these to be seen in the Highlands. Specialities include bog asphodel, bog myrtle, ling, bell and crossed-leaved heathers, lousewort, milkwort, cow wheat and a whole range of orchids. Bilberry and crowberry can be seen on high mountainsides, and occasionally you might come across bearberry and cowberry.

      Each region and island has its own specialities, which can make the study of the flora of Scotland particularly fascinating, and while you are not likely to want to suffer the extra weight of a field guide to flora when backpacking, doing a bit of research before a trip can greatly heighten the enjoyment when you stumble across your first grass of Parnassus, spring squill or dwarf cornel!

THE WALKS

WALK 1

      Shetland – Esha Ness

Start/Finish	Urafirth (grid ref HU303788). Park in the lay-by overlooking the inner pool of Ura Firth, just off the A970 leading toward Hillswick.
Distance	52km (32.5 miles); Day 1 – 31km (19.25 miles), Day 2 – 21km (13.25 miles)
Total Ascent	Total: 850m; Day 1 – 420m, Day 2 – 430m
Maps	OS Landranger sheet 3 Shetland, North Mainland
Number of Days	2

      The Shetland Islands offer backpacking as you won’t find it elsewhere. The best of the wild country lies on the coast, and there is certainly plenty of that – rough seas pour in from all sides, bringing westerly gales, northerly sleet and southerly showers, often all at once, and on these ocean-borne winds come millions of birds. A coastal backpack here in summer – for to be honest, you wouldn’t want to go backpacking in these remote islands at any other time of year – will bring you up close and personal with all of our birds of sea and cliff. Puffins peer out of burrows on the cliff tops as you walk by, while below, just over the edge, a teeming mass of guillemots, razorbills, gannets, shags, rock doves, kittiwakes and fulmars jostle for space on tiny ledges.

      This route takes in part of North Mavine, the northern tip of the main island of the Shetland group (confusingly known as ‘Mainland’). North Mavine is almost completely separated from the rest of Mainland by a very narrow strip of land known as Mavis Grind – a strip just wide enough to take the main A970 north.

      On the west side you gaze around points and islands into the North Atlantic, while to the east you are looking at the Sullom Voe inlet of the North Sea. Heading into North Mavine the main road crosses rough moorland then splits on Hill of Orbister. The road to the west leads onto the fine Esha Ness peninsula, with its superb coastal scenery – huge, plunging cliffs falling into spectacular tidal voes (small bays or narrow creeks). This walk takes you around this exciting, windswept headland.

      A walk that is suitable for all who enjoy wild coastal scenery. Route-finding is very easy, and there is not too much climbing, although picking your way around the thousands of inlets and headlands can be tiring. There is a path along parts of the route, particularly the main headland of Esha Ness, but the going throughout is easy, on short-cropped, flower-filled grass.

      The route begins at Urafirth, preferably after a good night’s sleep and hearty breakfast at Almara Guest House in Upper Urafirth. Heading south along the main road you soon find yourself in Hillswick, where you leave the road and take to the rocky shore leading around the Ness. From here on it’s simply a case of keeping the sea to your left and the land to your right as you head off around the countless bays and jutting peninsulas to reach your overnight stay at Hamnavoe. On Day 2 the route continues in a similar vein, leading onwards around the coast into Ronas Voe and its fjord-like waters. A short walk along a little lane takes you back to Urafirth and the end of a fine expedition.

      Tourist Information

      There is an excellent tourist information centre at the Market Cross in Lerwick, tel [phone], website www.visitshetland.com.

      Transport

      You can get to Lerwick, the capital of the Shetland Islands, by either air or ferry.

      Air Contact British Airways and their franchise partners Logan Air on 0845 7733377. Their flights make use of the main airport on Shetland at Sumburgh, 40km (25 miles) south of Lerwick, website www.loganair.co.uk.

      Ferry North Link Ferries operate ferries to Lerwick from Aberdeen or Stromness (Orkney), tel [phone], website www.northlinkferries.co.uk.

      Getting Around

      Buses A daily (Mon–Sat) bus service to Hillswick from Lerwick stops at Urafirth. It leaves at 17.10 and arrives at 18.25 – contact White Coaches on 01595 809443.

      Car Hire Try either Bolts Car Hire on 01595 693636, or Star Rent-a-Car on 01595 692075. Both have offices in Lerwick and at Sumburgh Airport.

      Accommodation and Supplies

      Lerwick For accommodation in Lerwick try the Glen Orchy Guest House on 01595 692031, website www.guesthouselerwick.com,