Cycling in the Cotswolds. Chiz Dakin

Swindon to Cheltenham; Oxford to Worcester; Birmingham to Stratford; and Worcester to Stratford.

      By car

      Parking in the Cotswolds is strictly controlled in many places, both in pay and display car parks and on the roadside. However, it is often possible to find free parking close to many of the routes – just ensure that any vehicle is parked legally and with consideration for residents, who have to put up with visitors invading their world every summer! Also remember that farmers often need spontaneous access to apparently overgrown field entrances, and that agricultural vehicles may need a wide turning circle close to and opposite gates.

      Individual route descriptions suggest parking options available locally. Further parking information can be found online at Parkopedia www.parkopedia.co.uk.

When to go

      In autumn, the leaves of many of the local trees turn a fantastic shade of red. These are Acer (maple) trees at the world-renowned Westonbirt Arboretum near Malmesbury (near Route 21)

      The best time to cycle in the Cotswolds is in early summer. Throughout the summer, days are longer, the weather is warmer (if not always sunnier!) and routes tend to be much less muddy than in winter. On the downside, accommodation and transport are busier, more expensive and get booked up earlier; vegetation begins to invade paths; and popular centres such as Bourton-on-the-Water, Broadway, Bibury and Winchcombe can get heaving (especially at weekends). However, peace and quiet can be found just a couple of kilometres away from these places – even in midsummer.

      Early autumn and late spring can also offer great cycling: the weather can often be dry and sunny (if windy); the days are still reasonably long and vegetation is less of an issue. Accommodation is cheaper and less busy than in summer, as are trains and tourist centres, but festivals are fewer.

      But beware the Jekyll-and-Hyde nature of off-road surfaces. When dry, the trails are hard-baked and although they may be bouncy or even bone-shaking they usually offer a relatively easy-going surface. Light or short-lived rain will not have a major effect on this once the ground has dried out in spring. Once wet-through, however, the surface can acquire the thick gloopy consistency of a bog, and may flood.

      Unless you like thick, clarty, dauby sticky stuff, winter is definitely not recommended for the novice cyclist, and even the more experienced cyclist may wish to stick more to the roads. However, for the experienced and prepared cyclist, particularly one who enjoys a thoroughly muddy off-road challenge, winter offers a quiet and adventurous angle to a cycling visit to the Cotswolds.

      All of the route descriptions in this book assume dry summer conditions.

Accommodation

      Accommodation is widely available throughout the Cotswolds, although there are only a few hostels. Due to its popularity with tourists, the region’s hotels and B&Bs can seem quite expensive, especially in the summer season. The high demand for rooms during this time means it’s best to book your bed well in advance.

      Many accommodation providers in the more remote areas assume arrival by car, which isn’t always helpful for cyclists. It’s also worth bearing in mind that some of the smaller villages may have just one option, or even none at all, for accommodation and refreshments. Appendix E contains details of websites that are useful for researching and booking accommodation in the Cotswolds, including websites that provide information specifically on cycle-friendly accommodation. A number of establishments in the area have cycle-friendly accreditation, but wherever you decide to stay it’s advisable to check before booking that there will be somewhere safe to store your bike overnight and facilities for drying wet gear.

      Bases of a reasonable size from which to explore the Cotswolds include (roughly south to north):

       Bath, Bradford on Avon or Bristol (Routes 6, 10 and 15)

       Cirencester or Stroud (Routes 8, 12, 13, 14, 16, 19 and 22)

       Bourton-on-the-Water or Stow-on-the-Wold (Routes 3, 4, 7, 9, 17, 18 and 22)

       Cheltenham or Tewkesbury (Routes 5, 20 and 22)

       Chipping Campden or Shipston-on-Stour (Routes 1, 2, 7, 17 and 22)

       Stratford-upon-Avon (1, 2, 11 and 22).

      A good starting point for your accommodation search is www.cyclistswelcome.co.uk – the Cyclists’ Touring Club’s (CTC’s) list of cycle-friendly accommodation. For a more general search try www.cotswolds.com.

What to wear

      Newcomers to cycling would be forgiven for thinking head-to-toe Lycra in lurid colours is essential, judging by the attire of some road cycling clubs. Fortunately this is not the case, although there are certain items of clothing that will make your ride more comfortable and therefore more enjoyable.

      Cycling shorts

      Cycling (padded) shorts make life on the bike much more comfortable, particularly for those new to cycling or on longer routes. These do not need to be your only layer – they easily fit underneath most pairs of more stylish and loose-fitting shorts (many shorts aimed at mountain bikers are designed in this way). You can also get padded cycling underwear if you prefer the two-layer approach. Most cyclists wouldn’t ride without some form of proper cycling shorts!

      Breathable upper and lower outer layers

      The British weather can change notoriously quickly, especially on higher ground, and a sunny day can quickly become windy and wet. The number and type of layers you should wear will depend on the time of year, but be careful not to overburden yourself. This is very much a personal preference, but as a minimum a lightweight, breathable and quick-drying jacket that is both windproof and waterproof will make poor weather (expected or not) much more bearable. If it is also in a hi-visibility colour such as yellow or orange, with reflective patches, it will improve your safety for no extra weight. Breathability is important to allow sweat created going uphill (or into strong winds) to escape.

      Trouser legs should ideally be close-fitting, particularly around the ankles, to avoid catching in the chain ring. If they are not, tuck them into your socks.

      Cycling gloves

      Shock-absorbing patches in the palms offer more comfort to your arms, particularly on off-road sections where vibrations are more intense. Outside the summer season your hands will chill surprisingly quickly in wet or cool conditions; full-fingered waterproof gloves are therefore preferable.

      Shades

      These are extremely useful – even on a rainy day. As well as reducing glare from bright or low sun, they also keep flying insects, mud and driving rain out of your eyes. Some cyclists wear clear shades on every ride.

      Cycling shoes/clip-in pedals

      Stiff cycling shoes are useful, but adding SPD plates to ‘clip in’ is best left until you’re sure it’s worth the money and the time getting used to them

      It’s worthwhile wearing cycle shoes. They may look like normal trainers or leisure shoes, but they have stiffened soles that prevent foot pain and long-term problems associated with the concentrated pressure of cycling.

      As your cycling progresses and you tackle longer and harder routes, clip-in pedals may become worthwhile. These positively lock your feet to the pedals, requiring a heel-twist to unlock. Besides keeping feet secure on rough ground, they allow you to pull up on the pedals as well as pushing down.

      Most cycle shoes feature attachment points for the shoe cleats, which are supplied with