The Way of St Francis. The Reverend Sandy Brown

a schedule

      While the complete walk of 28 stages with the extra walking tour of Rome could be accomplished in 29 walking days, that’s not nearly enough time to enjoy and appreciate this important pilgrimage and its many wonders. Unless you have already toured Rome and Florence you would want to spend at least one or two extra days in each. You can’t enjoy Assisi in what’s left of the day it took to walk there, so add another day for St Francis’ home town. It’s good to allow for a day of rest every week anyway, so that means a realistic, complete itinerary would be in the realm of 35 days, not including travel to and from Italy.

      If a journey of 35 days is unmanageable, the journey could be broken into several parts to be completed as time permits:

       Florence to Assisi – 15 or more days

       La Verna to Assisi – 9 or more days

       Assisi to Rieti – 8 or more days

       Assisi to Rome – 14 or more days

      Training

      It’s helpful to train in advance of the walk, and this should be part of your careful preparation. The often steep hills will challenge anyone who hasn’t trained adequately in advance, although almost anyone will find themselves stronger and fitter after walking for several days.

      People who are significantly overweight and have a hard time climbing a stairway or hill will have a difficult time. Likewise, because of the frequent and sometimes steep hills, people with knee or hip problems will find this a difficult walk.

      Most important in the training regime is having certainty that your feet and boots get along well with each other. You should plan to test your boot/sock combination with a few long walks before you leave, preferably in varied terrain, so blisters along the way won’t sideline you. Too many pilgrims try to push ahead with untested boots and socks and then develop agonizing blisters that can be serious enough to end their trip. Resolve boot and sock issues before you leave home.

      Pilgrim credenziale and testimonium

      As well as booking your travel arrangement to Italy it is important to secure your credential (or credenziale – a pilgrim ‘identity card’) within two months of your departure. (This is also a good time to reserve your overnight accommodation for the first couple of stages.)

      Pilgrims need a credential to certify their status and to receive a testimonium completion certificate at the end of the walk. This guide recommends the credential of the Via di Francesco because of its many institutional sponsors. The credential is free, but a donation is requested to cover the cost of postage. Go to the website www.piccolaccoglienzagubbio.it/credenziale and fill out the form online.

      This wonderful service is run by volunteers in Gubbio, Italy, and in the US through American Pilgrims to Italy, who send credentials out each week. Make sure to show your address exactly as it should appear to be correctly mailed by your national postal service. Allow 6-8 weeks for delivery.

      It is also possible to secure a credential in person at the Pilgrim Office adjacent to the Lower Basilica di San Francesco in Assisi. Credentials are available in Florence at St James Episcopal Church (Via Rucellai 9, 055 294417).

      Once you have your credential, keep it safe and dry while you are walking and have it stamped each day at the front desk where you spend the night or at a local church by the priest or staff member. Plan ahead carefully so there are adequate blank spots on the credential to last your entire walk.

      A completion certificate (testimonium in Latin) is offered at the Basilica di San Francesco for those who walk at least 100km to Assisi, and a separate one is offered at the Vatican for those who walk at least 100km to Rome. To receive your testimonium in Assisi, go to the car gate just to the left of the lower entrance of the Basilica, present your credential and ask to be directed to ‘Statio Peregrinorum’ (the pilgrim office) for your testimonium. To receive a testimonium in Rome, follow the steps listed at the end of Stage 28 in this guidebook.

      Pilgrim cross at the top of the ridge, just before the first view of the Basilica of St Francis on Stage 15

What to take

      The first rule of packing for a long hike is to have exactly the right amount of gear – and no more. A light pack is a gift that keeps on giving. The second rule is never bring anything made of cotton – it’s cold when wet and takes too long to dry. Keeping those rules in mind, here is a recommended gear list that works for summer. Heavier clothes are required, of course, in spring and fall.

       Backpack – 35-liter size is fine for the average build

       Backpack rain cover

       Emergency foil blanket – basic survival gear and a must for all outdoor hikes in case of an injury or unintended overnight

       Hiking shorts – 1 or 2 pairs

       Long pants – lightweight and quick-drying for rain and suitable for churches and restaurants – 1 pair

       Technical t-shirts – 2 short sleeve, 1 long sleeve (jogging shirts work nicely)

       Shirt or blouse (with collar for men) – 1 for dinner and/or church

       Underwear – shorts/panties and bras (stretch poly material for quick dry) – 2 or 3 pairs

       Socks – wool trekking socks, light for summer, heavier for cool weather – 3 pairs

       Sock liners – 3 pairs for blister prevention

       Hiking boots – mid-height boots with the thickest possible soles are best in the sometimes mountainous terrain

       ‘Second shoe’ – comfortable enough for evenings and walking on asphalt. Trainers or hiking sandals work fine.

       Rain jacket – of breathable material such as Gore-Tex®

       Warm layer fleece or light down jacket

       Sun/rain hat – wide brim to protect face, ears and back of the neck from sun exposure

       Toiletries and toiletry bag – toothbrush, etc

       Multi-purpose soap – one small bar of soap works in the shower and also for hand-washing laundry

       Camera, camera pouch and charger – if you take special care with your photos, and/or:

       Phone (with camera) and charger

       CamelBak® or similar water bladder or other water storage – 2L (spring/fall) or 3L (summer). Lack of fountains along the way means it’s important to bring an adequate water container.

       Clothespins and clothesline

       Passport, airline ticket, waterproof bag for documents

       Sunblock lotion

       Pen and paper and/or journal

       Blister kit – blisters need prompt attention. Plan to bring the ingredients necessary to treat your blisters before they damage your pilgrimage.

       Toilet paper roll in a plastic bag

       Debit/credit card(s)

       Copies of important documents – scans or hard copies of your passport, travel arrangements and credit/debit cards are priceless in case of theft or loss of the originals.

       Walking poles – many pilgrims swear by these to help with balance and to take weight off the knees and hips

       Swimsuit – it’s lightweight, and you’ll miss it if your lodging includes a pool.

       Mosquito repellant – very helpful in a few swampy areas.

      Layers are the key to staying warm on cold days. With this list,