Great Mountain Days in Scotland. Dan Bailey

and a slight saddle before climbing onto an unnamed 869m summit. Here it is possible to detour along the narrow scrambly crest of A’ Ch’eir Ghorm, a scree-draped offshoot from the main ridge, although it is a dead end and involves extra effort.

      Below Creag Urbhard, one of the great crags of the far north

      Srath Coille na Fearna from Creag Shomhairle

      From point 869m continue SE along the main ridge to the rugged minor peak of Lord Reay’s Seat (spot height 816m on 1:25,000 maps; not named on any map) overlooking the deep notch of Cadha na Beucaich. Leave the crumbling crest here, descending steep unstable scree on its right flank to reach the pass. The next summit is Stob Cadha na Beucaich (unnamed spot height 808m on OS maps), a strenuous rocky climb with some simple scrambling. From the summit head roughly E down gentle stony slopes, which soon become grassy underfoot. Either pass over the next easy-angled summit (An t-Sàil Mhòr according to the maps) or skirt just right of it, then descend a long boggy slope roughly S into a bowl just east of the Bealach Horn.

      Return 10km

      Where there was once a simple stalker’s path a vehicle track has recently been scored into the hillside – an ugly mess. The worst scars will gradually heal, but the mere fact of its existence compromises the wild character of these hills. Vehicles can now go to places they have never before been able to. The proliferation of new tracks in remote landscapes is an indictment of the conservation credentials of sporting estates.

      Turn left onto this track, which leads down among impressive crags into Srath Dionard. About 1.5km shy of the loch peel off NNE, fording the river and climbing over a hummocky slope. Cross yet another vehicle track and continue onto the Bealach a’ Chonnaidh, a pass immediately adjacent to the one that you crossed at the beginning of the day. Descend the far side carefully, looping right to skirt a crag, to reach the flood plain beneath Creag Shomhairle. From the sheep fank retrace your steps to the road.

WALK FOUR

      Ben More Assynt, Conival and Breabag

Start/Finish	Where the Benmore Lodge track joins the A837 (NC 296 082) – limited parking
Distance	34km (21 miles)
Ascent	1660m
Time	12hrs
Terrain	Long easy track approach. Rough and largely pathless on Breabag. More signs of passage on the higher hills, but also more scrambling. The southeast ridge of Conival has some exposed grade 1/2 ground and needs caution in the wet, while the south ridge of Ben More Assynt is easier at grade 1 but feels similarly airy at times.
Maps	OS Landranger (1:50,000) 15; OS Explorer (1:25,000) 440 & 442; Harvey Superwalker (1:25,000) Suilven covers most but not quite all of the route
Transport	Postbus service 123 from Lairg; explain you’re getting off at the Benmore Lodge track
By Bike	Cycling the approach track can save about 12km of walking; as far as Benmore Lodge it’s a mix of hard-packed gravel and tarmac sections, although the final stretch from there is a bit rougher
Accommodation	Hostel at Inchnadamph Lodge (01571 822218); Achmelvich Beach YH (01571 844480); Achininver YH (01854 622482)
Summits	Breabag 815m (‘little height’); Conival 987m (‘joined-on or adjoining hill’, possibly); Ben More Assynt 998m (‘big hill of assynt’)
Sleeping Out	The grassy hollows around Breabag’s summit give novel camping spots sheltered from many wind directions. The shores of Dubh Loch Mor under Ben More Assynt are an obvious lower-level alternative.
Seasonal Notes	In snowy conditions the southeast ridge of Conival becomes a grade I/II winter climb, and the south ridge of Ben More Assynt is grade I – taken together, a spectacular mountaineering round. It may be hard to ford the River Oykel in a wet spell.
Short Cuts	The traverse of Breabag takes nearly as much effort as all the other hills combined, so missing it out is the simplest short cut

      The highest summits and only Munros in Assynt, Ben More Assynt and Conival, are less immediately striking than their freakish neighbours on the western seaboard, but closer inspection reveals a range of remote and unexpected grandeur. The standard bagger’s route from Inchnadamph has the benefit of directness but misses out many interesting corners. This route, a meatier offering by far, approaches from the south to make a circuit of the high ground ringing the lonely head of Glen Oykel.

      The round starts with Breabag, an extensive and eccentric Corbett. Conival is next, climbed by its southeast ridge – an exciting scramble, but not too tricky. The circuit then continues in classic ridge-walking vein, with a narrow shattered crest to Ben More Assynt, from where more easy but atmospheric scrambling leads on over the South Top to Càrn nan Conbhairean. Finish with a quick nip up Eagle Rock – not many people come this way.

      Conival from Loch Assynt

      Approach 6.5km

      Take the track past Loch Ailsh to reach the houses at Benmore Lodge. Beyond the big house the track becomes rougher, following the River Oykel upstream for roughly 2.5km and crossing a bridge over the Allt Sail an Ruathair along the way (cyclists should leave bikes here). The 1:50,000 map shows a bridge over the River Oykel east of Black Rock, but this does not exist; instead ford the river where it shallows at a gravel island. In spate it may be wiser to cross on a footbridge much closer to Benmore Lodge.

      The towers on Conival’s southeast ridge

      On the hill 18.5km

      Breabag is a sprawling, complex hill and needs close navigation in poor visibility. Head W, climbing quite steeply to skirt right of Black Rock. Cross a boggy area beyond, and continue WNW beside a burn (occasional traces of path) up to a broad whalebacked shoulder. From here take a more or less direct line to Breabag’s summit up a mix of grass and scree, staying a little right of the Bealach Choinnich and the minor top of Meall Diamhain. The summit is merely the highest of several knolls, set a little back from the cliff edge of Coirean Ban.

      Descend roughly NNE to a col above the glen of the Allt nan Uamh, which cuts through the limestone of Breabag’s lower slopes. Downstream are the fascinating Bone Caves, where the remains of prehistoric animals have been found; they’re a detour too far from here, but easily reached from the A837. Climb through a moonscape of quartzite pavements onto Breabag’s north top (again, just the highest of several knobbles), crossing a striking square-cut fissure and enjoying impressive views of the mountain’s rock-walled eastern corries. Continue over Breabag Tarsuinn (point 649m), then bear right to the col between Breabag and Conival.

      On the slippery south ridge of Ben More Assynt

      The latter looms huge and craggy above. To outflank this steep face cut right along a pronounced terrace to two tiny pools. From here head directly uphill, weaving among outcrops and scree; Conival’s