Fortnum & Mason: Christmas & Other Winter Feasts. Tom Bowles Parker

nutty tang, though Sevruga is recommended here, as it’s marginally more affordable. You could also use trout or salmon caviar, which is rather cheaper but still has its crisp, clean, ovoid charm.

      & perfect with a glass of Brut Reserve Champagne

      SERVES 4

      · 4 medium baking potatoes (about 150g each), such as Maris Piper

      · 120ml crème fraîche

      · 2 tablespoons chopped chives

      · grated zest of 1 lemon

      · 60g Sevruga caviar

      Wash the potatoes and rub a little sea salt over the skin while they are still damp. Prick each one with a fork a few times and place in an oven heated to 200°C/Gas Mark 6. Bake for about an hour, until tender when pierced with a knife.

      While the potatoes are baking, mix the crème fraîche, chives and lemon zest together. Slice the top off each potato and, holding it in an oven-gloved hand, carefully scoop out the flesh into a bowl, placing the skins on a roasting tray. Mash the potato with a fork, then mix in the crème fraîche and season to taste. Fill the potato skins with this mixture and put them back into the oven for 5 minutes at the same temperature.

      Remove the potatoes from the oven and spread the caviar over the top.

BAKED JACKET POTATOES WITH SMOKED SALMON AND DILL CREAM CHEESE

      The key to this delectably simple dish is that mixture of hot, fluffy potato, strips of gently smoked salmon, and cool, lactic cream cheese. Horseradish adds a hint of heat, while dill brings a touch of strident Scandinavian allure.

      & delicious with a glass of Blanc de Blancs Champagne

      SERVES 4

      · 4 Maris Piper potatoes (about 150g each)

      · 70g full-fat cream cheese

      · ½ a bunch of dill, plus more for garnishing

      · 2 teaspoons creamed horseradish

      · 140g smoked salmon, cut into strips

      Wash the potatoes and rub a little sea salt over the skin while they are still damp. Prick each one with a fork a few times and place in an oven heated to 200°C/Gas Mark 6. Bake for about an hour, until tender when pierced with a knife.

      While the potatoes are baking, mix the cream cheese with the dill and horseradish. Taste and add salt and pepper. Slice the top off each potato and, holding it in an oven-gloved hand, carefully scoop out the flesh into a bowl, placing the skins on a roasting tray. Mash the potato with a fork, then mix in the cream cheese and season to taste. Fill the potato skins with this mixture and put them back into the oven for 5 minutes at the same temperature.

      Remove the potatoes from the oven, top with strips of smoked salmon and sprinkle over a little dill. (See photo.)

BAKED JACKET POTATOES WITH PUMPKIN AND COCONUT CURRY

      This takes the humble baked spud on a far-flung journey to exotic, spice-scented tropical shores. Serve with a punchy chutney and, for those of a more carnivorous bent, fat slices of York ham.

      SERVES 4

      · 4 Maris Piper potatoes (about 150g each)

      · 2 tablespoons coconut oil

      · 2 shallots, chopped

      · a small thumb of fresh ginger, diced

      · 2 garlic cloves, chopped

      · ½ teaspoon ground turmeric

      · ¼ teaspoon ground cumin

      · ½ teaspoon mild curry powder

      · 1 star anise

      · ¼ of a pumpkin, diced (about 200g)

      · 400g tin of coconut milk

      · parsley, chopped, to serve

      Wash the potatoes and rub a little sea salt over the skin while they are still damp. Prick each one with a fork a few times and place in an oven heated to 200°C/Gas Mark 6. Bake for about an hour, until tender when pierced with a knife.

      While the potatoes are baking, heat the oil in a large saucepan over a medium-low heat and cook the shallots, ginger and garlic until soft, fragrant and translucent but without letting them take on any colour. Add the spices and diced pumpkin to the pan and add a pinch each of salt and pepper. Cook for 2–3 minutes, until the spices have released their fragrance. Add the coconut milk and cook for 15 minutes, or until the pumpkin is soft to the point of a knife.

      Slice the top off each potato and, holding it in an oven-gloved hand, carefully scoop out the flesh into a bowl, placing the skins on a roasting tray. Mash the potato with a fork, then add to the curry pan.

      Taste and adjust the seasoning, then remove the star anise. Fill the potato skins with the curry mixture and put them back into the oven for 10 minutes at the same temperature, until the skins are crispy. Sprinkle with chopped parsley to serve. (See photo.)

BROWNIES WITH DARK CHOCOLATE GANACHE AND HONEYCOMB

      Forget the Papist politics. This is a serious brownie, covered with honeycomb and rich chocolate ganache. An explosive combination. Guy Fawkes would be proud.

      & try these with a glass of Tokaji or a cup of Fortnum’s Assam tea

      MAKES 18

      · 250g dark chocolate (70% cocoa solids)

      · 100g plain flour

      · 35g cocoa powder

      · 3 large eggs

      · 340g caster sugar

      · 190g butter

      FOR THE TOPPING

      · 120g dark chocolate (55% cocoa solids), chopped

      · 85ml double cream

      · 50g honeycomb

      Chop 50g of the chocolate into pea-size pieces and set aside. Chop the rest a little smaller and set that aside too. Sift the flour and cocoa powder into a bowl and set aside.

      Put the eggs and sugar into a large bowl and beat with an electric mixer until pale and very thick. Melt the butter in a saucepan. When bubbles appear around the edge, remove the pan from the heat and stir in the 200g of chopped chocolate until melted. Fold this mixture into the eggs and sugar with a large metal spoon. Fold in the flour and cocoa powder in three additions, then finally fold in the remaining chopped chocolate.

      Pour the mixture into a baking tin, roughly 23cm x 30cm, lined with baking parchment, and spread it out evenly. Place in an oven heated to 160°C/Gas Mark 3 for 15–20 minutes, until the edges are slightly risen but the mixture is still slightly soft in the centre (a skewer inserted in the middle should come out