Rogan. Simon Rogan

and took its crown), turnip has lost popularity in modern times, but it deserves a resurgence for its versatility and because it is a great source of vitamin C. Baby turnips have a sweet, delicate taste, while larger ones are stronger and more peppery, but even the more mature roots can burst with flavour when cooked in salt dough. This recipe makes a lot of lardo, but it can be frozen once cured. It needs almost 2 weeks to cure, so make it well ahead ready to use or store it in the freezer until you need it.

      SERVES 4, AS A STARTER

      Pork lardo

      1 tsp black peppercorns

      1 tsp fennel seeds

      1 tsp ground allspice

      1 tsp juniper berries

      55g coarse sea salt

      30g sugar

      1kg pork back fat

      Slow-cooked egg yolk

      4 eggs

      Salt-baked turnip

      300g coarse salt

      500g plain flour, plus extra for dusting

      4 large white turnips

      Turnip broth

      2kg large white turnips, juiced

      200ml double cream

      50g unsalted butter

      2 tsp xanthan gum

      juice of 1 lemon

      salt, for seasoning

      turnip tops and cornflowers, to serve

      For the pork lardo, finely grind the spices in a blender or pestle and mortar. Add the salt and sugar and pulse or grind to combine. Rub the spice mix over the pork fat. Wrap the pork fat tightly in cling film and chill for 11 days. Remove the fat from the cling film and brush off the spices. Place it on a wire rack set over a tray and chill, uncovered, for a further 2 days until dry to the touch.

      When you are ready to cook the whole recipe, preheat the oven to 140°C/120°C Fan/Gas Mark 1. In a Pyrex dish or high-sided oven tray, cover the eggs with water and bake for 2 hours. Chill in a bowl of iced water to stop them cooking further. Once cool enough to handle, crack the eggs, remove the yolks and leave to one side. Discard the white.

      For the salt-baked turnip, increase the oven temperature to 200°C/180°C Fan/Gas Mark 6. In a large mixing bowl, combine the salt, flour and enough cold water to form a dense dough (about 300ml). Dust a work surface with flour and roll out the dough to a thickness of 1cm. Wrap the turnips in the salt dough, covering them completely. Place on a baking sheet lined with baking parchment and bake for 25–30 minutes. Allow to cool to room temperature in the dough, then break open. Peel and grate the turnips into a bowl and leave to one side.

      Put the turnip juice in a medium saucepan over a medium–high heat and bring to the boil. Remove from the heat, strain through a fine sieve to remove the scum that rises to the top and return the juice to a clean pan, on the heat. Stir in the cream and butter, add the xanthan gum and blitz using a hand-held blender. Season with salt and lemon juice. Remove from the heat and warm through before serving.

      Cut 12 thin slices of lardo straight from the fridge. Warm the grated turnip and divide it among bowls. Sit an egg yolk on the turnip and top each with 3 slices of lardo. Finish with turnip tops and cornflowers and serve the broth hot on the side.

PICKLED RED PEPPERS AND FENNEL WITH SMOKED TOMATO STOCK

      This light and fresh dish is perfect for the hot days of summer, using a selection of ingredients that are at their best in the height of this season. Fennel packs my favourite aniseedy flavour, and it works so well with this chilled mousse, which is made from vegetable purée folded with cream and set with gelatine. The pickled red peppers make the most of summer surplus, as does the smoked tomato stock – leftovers can be sipped as a chilled soup or consommé with pearls of cooked courgette, carrot and torn basil leaves.

      SERVES 4, AS A STARTER

      Smoked tomato stock

      2kg cherry tomatoes

      1 garlic clove, chopped

      1 celery stick, sliced

      1 shallot, sliced