Rogan. Simon Rogan

SWEET CICELY AND RHUBARB PICKLED HERRING

      Rhubarb is a versatile ingredient that shouldn’t be kept only for desserts, as its sharp tang works so well with meats and strong-flavoured fish. In order to really absorb the full flavour of the rhubarb, cicely and spices, the herring needs to be marinated in the pickling mixture for 24 hours. Here sweet cicely is in its element, not only lending its aromatic flavour to the dish but also cutting through the oiliness of the herring and adding a natural sweetness to the pickle.

      SERVES 4, AS A STARTER

      Sweet cicely stalk and rhubarb pickled herring

      8 rhubarb stalks, juiced in a juicer (should yield about 500ml)

      100g sweet cicely stalks (leaves reserved to use below)

      20g caster sugar

      50ml white wine vinegar

      3 cloves

      3 allspice berries

      4 fresh herrings, cleaned and filleted

      Sweet cicely gel

      350ml fresh apple juice (shop-bought is fine)

      juice of ½ lemon

      1½ tsp agar agar

      30g sweet cicely leaves

      Frisée lettuce emulsion

      230g green frisée leaves from the outer lettuce

      2 soft-boiled eggs (cooked for 4 minutes)

      300ml grapeseed oil

      salt, for seasoning

      young, yellow frisée from the lettuce centre, chervil leaves, garlic flowers, pak choi shoots, to serve

      To make the pickle liquid, bring the rhubarb juice to the boil in a medium saucepan, then remove from the heat and add the sweet cicely stalks, sugar, vinegar, cloves, allspice berries and 2 pinches of salt. Return to the heat and bring to the boil again, then reduce the heat and simmer for 4–5 minutes. Remove from the heat and leave to infuse until it has cooled to room temperature. Strain through a fine sieve and chill. When the pickle liquid is cold, add the herring fillets, cover and leave to marinate in the fridge for 24 hours.

      To make the gel, put the apple juice, lemon juice and agar agar in a small saucepan over a high heat and bring to the boil. Once the mixture has come to the boil, pour it into a heatproof container and leave to cool. Once cold, chill in the fridge until set firm – this will only take a few minutes.

      Transfer the firm gel to a blender and blitz with the raw sweet cicely leaves until smooth. Pass through a fine sieve and chill until ready to serve.

      Bring a large saucepan of water to the boil and blanch the frisée leaves for 1 minute 30 seconds. Remove and refresh in a bowl of iced water. Drain and squeeze out the excess water. Blitz the lettuce with the soft-boiled eggs in a clean blender until smooth, then gradually add the oil until the emulsion has a mayonnaise consistency. Pass through a fine sieve for a smoother texture and season with salt.

      Divide the pickled herring among plates, add the sweet cicely gel and frisée lettuce emulsion and sprinkle each serving with the leaves, flowers and shoots.

LEEK AND LANGOUSTINES WITH SWEET CICELY AND FENNEL SAUCE

      This is one for lovers of aniseed flavours – like me. The combination of fennel, sweet cicely and star anise packs an aniseed flavour punch against the sweet, delicate flavours of the langoustines and cream sauce. The whitecurrants are a lovely addition when in season as they add little bursts of sweetness and freshness. The recipe makes more oil than you will need, but it keeps in the freezer or for 3–5 days in the fridge – it might discolour over time but it’s still fine to use.

      SERVES 4, AS A STARTER

      Langoustine and cream sauce

      12 whole large fresh langoustines

      4 tbsp sunflower oil

      2 shallots, sliced

      1 carrot, sliced

      1 celery stick, sliced

      1 garlic clove, sliced

      1 small leek, sliced

      2 tsp tomato purée

      1 star anise

      1 bay leaf

      200ml white wine

      25ml Cognac

      400ml White Chicken Stock

      100ml double cream

      juice of ½ lemon

      Sweet cicely oil

      1 tsp fennel seeds

      1 star anise

      200ml grapeseed oil

      50g spinach

      50g sweet cicely leaves and young stalks

      Fennel and sweet cicely purée

      1 tbsp lemon juice

      325g fennel, thinly sliced

      75ml double cream, reduced by half over a low heat

      40g sweet cicely leaves

      Wispy leeks

      16 small baby leeks

      a pinch of salt

      whitecurrants, to serve

      Preheat the oven to 180°C/160°C Fan/Gas Mark 4. Bring a large saucepan of water to the boil and blanch the langoustines for 20 seconds. Remove and refresh in a bowl of iced water. When cold, remove the tails from the heads with a short twist and pull. Peel the tails carefully and set the meat to one side. Roast the heads and shells in a roasting tin in the oven for 15–20 minutes.

      Warm 2 tablespoons of the sunflower oil in a large, heavy-based saucepan over a medium heat, add all the vegetables and sweat them for 5–6 minutes. Add the tomato purée and cook for a further 2 minutes, stirring continuously. Add the star anise, bay leaf and roasted langoustine shells and heads, deglaze with the alcohol and reduce until almost all the liquid has evaporated. Cover with the chicken stock and bring to the boil, then reduce the heat and simmer for 30 minutes. Remove from the heat and leave to infuse for 2 hours. Strain through a fine sieve into a heavy-based saucepan over a low–medium heat and reduce by half. Add the cream and lemon juice and simmer for a further 5 minutes. Pass through a fine sieve and leave to one side.

      While the sauce is infusing, make the sweet cicely oil. Toast the fennel seeds and star anise in a small dry frying pan over a medium heat for 3–4 minutes. Warm the oil in a small, heavy-based saucepan until it reaches roughly 80°C (check with a thermometer) then add the toasted spices. Remove from the heat and allow to infuse for 1 hour. Bring a heavy-based saucepan of water to the boil over a high heat and blanch the spinach for 30 seconds. Remove with a slotted spoon, refresh in a bowl of iced water, drain and squeeze out the excess water. Blitz the cicely, blanched spinach, spices and oil in a blender until smooth. Strain the herb oil through a muslin-lined sieve and chill immediately.

      To make the fennel and sweet cicely purée, stir together 250ml water and the lemon juice. Add the finely sliced fennel to the acidulated water and allow to soak for a couple of minutes, then drain and transfer the fennel to a plastic container. Cover with microwave-safe cling film and microwave on full power for 5–6 minutes. After this time check the fennel is soft; if it still has a firm texture, cook it in 1-minute blasts until the fennel is soft and tender. When cooked,