Coin Collecting For Dummies. Neil S. Berman

Sulfur-free versions are excellent for long-term storage. The sulfur used to manufacture paper causes coins to tarnish, although today, most of the envelopes targeted to the coin market are sulfur-free. Another potential disadvantage of paper envelopes is that you can’t see the coin inside without opening the holder and disturbing the coin.FIGURE 4-1: Paper envelopes for storing coins.

       Cardboard 2x2s: Inexpensive, starting out as 2x4-inch sheets of Mylar (clear plastic film) glued to card stock containing two holes of identical size (see Figure 4-2). The coin is placed on the Mylar, and then the holder is folded over and stapled together. Some cardboard 2x2s have a layer of adhesive that seals the holder and eliminates the need for staples. Coins are easily viewed through the Mylar windows. This option is excellent for long-term storage (except in areas of high humidity) as long as the Mylar film remains intact. If I had a dime for every coin destroyed by a staple, I could vacation in Bermuda for a week. Be careful when stapling the holder; make sure not to hit the coin. Also, be very careful when you staple the holder, and crimp the staples to make sure that they don’t damage the coins in other holders. Removing coins from cardboard 2x2s must also be done carefully so as not to scratch the coins.FIGURE 4-2: Cardboard 2x2s for storing coins.

       Vinyl 2x2s: Inexpensive and great for handling and viewing coins. Also known as flips, these 2x4-inch holders have two pockets that fold over to a convenient 2x2-inch size (see Figure 4-3). One side holds your coin; the other is a card on which you can place a description. There are many online sites devoted to the preservation of coins. This method of storage is known widely as Saflips. There are a few optionsfor placement of your coins in these Saflips.I have a difficult time getting the harder flips to stand up in a row inside a box. The softer, vinyl flips don’t seem to have this problem. Excellent for short-term storage. Used by most dealers and auction houses as a convenient method of displaying, protecting, and shipping coins.FIGURE 4-3: Vinyl 2x2s for storing coins. Some vinyl flips are made with PVC, a chemical that can leach out over time and damage your coins. Therefore, this kind of holder can’t be used for long-term storage. Certain brands are made without PVC, but this causes them to become brittle and crack.

       Hard plastic holders: Expensive and cumbersome to use. These holders consist of three layers of hard plastic — one to hold the coin and two outer layers for protection — all screwed together (see Figure 4-4). Often custom-made, the holders are available in a variety of sizes and colors for individual and multiple coins. Custom printing may be added to these holders to identify the coins. The plastic layers are essentially inert (don’t react chemically with the coins), so they’re perfect for long-term storage. Hard plastic holders are attractive and offer clear views of both sides of the coin. They’re used by collectors for expensive coins that they plan to keep for some time.FIGURE 4-4: Hard plastic holders for storing coins. If the diameter of the hole isn’t perfect, the coin will shift around in the holder, thereby exposing the coin to abrasive movement. If the hole is too small, it must be enlarged by hand, often resulting in an amateurish appearance, and some air and moisture may seep in through the sides.

       Slabs: Expensive, but the best option. The cost of slabbing a coin can range from $10 to more than $100, depending on the company you used and the level of service you choose. Slabs are the hard plastic cases used to encapsulate coins graded by independent certification companies (see Figure 4-5). A small slip of paper sealed in the holder identifies the coin and shows the grade assigned to it. These holders are excellent for long-term storage; they offer the tightest seals of all holders, and some are said to be watertight and airtight. Some slabs include bar codes on the internal labels for convenient inventory control via a bar-code reader, a database, and a computer. This type of holder is the only choice for professional coin dealers and serious collectors. Slabs are among the bulkiest coin holders, so storage can become a problem.FIGURE 4-5: Slabs, good for storing and trading coins.

       Coin album: A broad range of prices, quality, and levels of protection. Various types are available for the coin collector (see Figure 4-6), including basic albums with holes in which the coins are pushed, albums with vinyl pages, and albums in which coins are placed in holes that are protected on both sides by plastic slides. Most albums and folders are designed for specific collections (Lincoln cents, peace dollars, and so on). Albums and folders are especially suited for lower-grade circulated coins (worn coins). The empty holes urge you to continue collecting. Albums and folders make organizing and displaying your collection a cinch. This option is the method of choice for most beginning collectors.FIGURE 4-6: Coin albums for storing coins in sets. Paper folders will eventually tone your coins; also, only one side of the coin is visible. Vinyl albums may leak PVC. Improper use of the slide-type albums can leave damaging slidemarks (hairline scratches) on the surfaces of your coins.

       Tube: Very convenient and relatively inexpensive for storing and protecting large quantities of coins. Coin tubes are used to store rolls of coins of various denominations (see Figure 4-7). Some tubes are round and clear; others are square and opaque.

FIGURE 4-7: Tubes for storing large quantities of coins.

Keeping Away from the Cleaning Products

      I remember the day when a nicely dressed man in his mid-40s came into my coin shop with a complete set of peace dollars he wanted to sell. The man explained that his father had painstakingly built the collection over many years. He inherited the coins after his father died. Now, many years later, he was curious to find out how much more valuable his coins had become.

      Before I opened the album, the man pointed out that some of the coins had become tarnished over the years, so he had cleaned them to make it easier for me to see what they looked like. Hearing that, my heart sank. Sure enough, when he opened the album, I saw rows and rows of bright, shiny peace dollars. But they were too bright and shiny; all were obviously scrubbed and cleaned. Once beautiful, high-grade coins, now they were pieces of junk worth a fraction of their former value. A very disappointed person left my store that day.

      

Leave coin cleaning, which should rarely be done, to conservators. Never clean a coin yourself. Never. Ever.

      Most coins should be left alone, but some coins cry out to be cleaned. The following coins could benefit from a cleaning, but all need to be treated differently:

       Coins found by metal detectors

       Coins that are extremely dark and tarnished

       Coins that have developed film from spending too much time in a vinyl coin holder

       Coins with tape residue or some other localized problem

      

I know you have coins that need to be cleaned, and I know you’re dying to clean them. So because you’re going to do it anyway, I may as well give you some safe cleaning tips. (Abstinence seems to be out of the question.) Please practice these techniques on inexpensive coins until you feel comfortable cleaning coins that are more desirable. Never clean coins that are valuable; take them to a professional instead. Finally, if you don’t feel comfortable cleaning coins, don’t do it.

      Removing dirt

      Dirt is an abrasive that