The Ascent of Denali (Mount McKinley). Hudson Stuck

The Northeast Ridge shattered by the earthquake in July, 1912 40 Cutting a staircase three miles long in the ice of the shattered ridge 52 The shattered Northeast Ridge 56 Camp at 13,000 feet on Northeast Ridge 60 A dangerous passage 64 The Upper Basin reached at last. Our camp at the Parker Pass at 15,000 feet 72 Above all the range except Denali and Denali’s Wife 76 Traverse under the cliffs of the Northeast Ridge to enter the Grand Basin 82 First camp in the Grand Basin—16,000 feet, looking up 84 Second camp in the Grand Basin—looking down, 16,500 86 Third camp in the Grand Basin—17,000 feet, showing the shattering of the glacier walls by the earthquake 88 The North Peak, 20,000 feet high 90 The South Peak from about 18,000 feet 94 The climbing-irons 98 Denali’s Wife from the summit of Denali (photogravure) 102 Robert Tatum raising the Stars and Stripes on the highest point in North America 104

The saying of the Te Deum	106
Beginning the descent of the ridge; looking down 4,000 feet upon the Muldrow Glacier	122
Johnny Fred, who kept the base camp and fed the dogs and would not touch the sugar	128
“Muk,” the author’s pet malamute	136
Approaching the range	164
Map showing route of the Stuck-Karstens expedition to the summit of Mt. Denali (Mt. McKinley)	End of volume

THE ASCENT OF DENALI

       Table of Contents

CHAPTER I

       Table of Contents

PREPARATION AND APPROACH

       Table of Contents

      The enterprise which this volume describes was a cherished purpose through a number of years. In the exercise of his duties as Archdeacon of the Yukon, the author has travelled throughout the interior of Alaska, both winter and summer, almost continuously since 1904. Again and again, now from one distant elevation and now from another, the splendid vision of the greatest mountain in North America has spread before his eyes, and left him each time with a keener longing to enter its mysterious fastnesses and scale its lofty peaks. Seven years ago, writing in The Spirit of Missions of a view of the mountain from the Pedro Dome, in the neighborhood of Fairbanks, he said: “I