What to See in England. Gordon Home

Willett flattened his nose looking out on the road on the dark night when the story opens.

      Chigwell School, built in 1629, and founded by Archbishop Harsnett,

       still remains, although there have been several modern additions. Here

       William Penn, the founder of Pennsylvania, was educated. (See Index for

       Jordans and Penn's Chapel at Thakeham.)

      Chigwell Church, facing "The King's Head," has a dark avenue of yews leading from the road to the porch. A brass to the memory of Archbishop Harsnett may be seen on the floor of the chancel. The epitaph in Latin was ordered to be so written in the will of the archbishop. Translated, the first portion may be read: "Here lieth Samuel Harsnett, formerly vicar of this church. First the unworthy Bishop of Chichester, then the more unworthy Bishop of Norwich, at last the very unworthy Archbishop of York."

      [Illustration: THE KING'S HEAD INN AT CHIGWELL.

      The "Maypole" of Dickens's Barnaby Rudge.]

WALTHAM ABBEY AND CROSS

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      =How to get there.=—Train from Liverpool Street. Great Eastern

       Railway.

       =Nearest Station.=—Waltham.

       =Distance from London.=—12–¾ miles.

       =Average Time.=—40 minutes. Quickest train, 23 minutes.

      1st 2nd 3rd

       =Fares.=—Single 2s. 0d. 1s. 6d. 1s. 1d.

       Return 3s. 3d. 2s. 6d. 1s. 7d.

      =Accommodation Obtainable.=—"The New Inn," etc.

      Waltham Abbey is a market town in Essex on the banks of the Lea, which here divides into several branches which are used as motive power for some gunpowder and flour mills. Harold II. founded the stately Abbey Church in May 1060. William the Conqueror disputed Harold's claim to the throne and landed in England at Pevensey in 1066. At Waltham Abbey, troubled and anxious, Harold prayed for victory in England's name before the fatal battle of Hastings, where he was slain. William at first refused to give up Harold's body to his mother, Gytha, but he afterwards allowed two monks from Waltham to search for the body of the king. They were unable to find it amongst the nameless dead, but his favourite, Edith the swan-necked, whose eye of affection was not to be deceived, discovered it. His weeping mother buried the disfigured corpse probably about 120 feet from the east end of the old church.

      At Waltham is one of the many crosses erected by Edward I. in memory of his first wife, Eleanor of Castile, wherever her body rested on its way to Westminster from Lincoln. At Northampton is another of these famous crosses. When the king asked the Abbot of Cluny to intercede for her soul, he said, "We loved her tenderly in her lifetime; we do not cease to love her in death."

      A little way to the left of Waltham Cross, now a gateway to the park of Theobalds, stands Temple Bar, stone for stone intact as it was in the days when traitors' heads were raised above it in Fleet Street, although the original wooden gates have gone. A portion of the richly-carved top of the gate is still in existence in London. Waltham Abbey is probably close to that part of the river Lea where King Alfred defeated the Danes. They had penetrated far up the river when King Alfred diverted the waters of the river from underneath their black vessels and left them high and dry in a wilderness of marsh and forest. The gentle Charles Lamb was very fond of the country all round Waltham Abbey, especially Broxbourne and Amwell.

      [Illustration: THE ABBEY GATE AT WALTHAM.

      Waltham Abbey was founded in 1060 by Harold II.]

DOWNE

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      THE HOME OF DARWIN

      =How to get there.=—Train from Charing Cross, Cannon Street, or

       London Bridge. South-Eastern and Chatham Railway.

       =Nearest Station.=—Orpington (3–½ to 4 miles from Downe).

       =Distance from London.=—13–¾ miles.

       =Average Time.=—35 minutes.

      1st 2nd 3rd

       =Fares.=—Single 2s. 4d. 1s. 6d. 1s. 2–½d.

       Return 4s. 0d. 3s. 0d. …

      =Accommodation Obtainable.=—"Queen's Head," at Downe, facing the

       church. Hotels at Farnborough—"White Lion," "George and

       Dragon."

      The home of the great scientist is still standing in the little village of Downe in Kent. The road to the hamlet is through Farnborough, and the walk takes an hour. Downe is a pleasant place, possessing a large village pond and a small church with a shingled spire. Darwin's home, known as Downe House, was built in the eighteenth century. Its front is of white stucco, relieved by ivy and other creepers. The wing on the west side of the house was added by Darwin shortly after he came to live there. This new portion of the house was used partly to accommodate his library. On the north side is the room used by Darwin as a study, in which he wrote some of his most important works. The garden of the house is sheltered and reposeful, and from the old wall-garden to the south there is a beautiful view over the delightful stretch of country in the direction of Westerham.

      The life led by Darwin when at Downe was exceedingly quiet and regular, for he always went to bed at an early hour, and rising at six was enabled to get in a walk and breakfast before commencing work at eight o'clock. At some other time of the day he would manage to get an opportunity for another walk, and part of the evening would be given up to his family and friends who were privileged to enjoy conversation with the great author of The Origin of Species. Professor Haeckel, describing a visit to Darwin's home, says, "There stepped out to meet me from the shady porch … the great naturalist himself, a tall and venerable figure, with the broad shoulders of an Atlas supporting a world of thought, his Jupiter-like forehead, highly and broadly arched … and deeply furrowed with the plough of mental labour; his kindly, mild eyes looking forth under the shadow of prominent brows."

      [Illustration: DOWNE HOUSE AT DOWNE, KENT.

      The Home of Charles Darwin.]

EPSOM: ITS RACES AND ITS SALTS

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      =How to get there.=—From Waterloo, South-Western Railway. From

       London Bridge or Victoria, London, Brighton, and South Coast Rly.

       =Nearest Station.=—Epsom.

       =Distance from London.=—14 miles.

       =Average Time.=—¾ hour.

      1st 2nd 3rd

       =Fares.=—Single 2s. 3d. 1s. 6d. 1s. 2d.

       Return 3s. 0d. 2s. 6d. 2s. 2d.

      =Accommodation Obtainable.=—"King's Head," "Spread Eagle," etc.

      One must choose any other than a race-day if one wishes to see the charming old town of Epsom at its best. But if, on the other hand, one wishes, to see something of the scene on the race-course depicted in Mr. Frith's famous picture, one gets no suggestion of the great spectacle except on race-days. On these occasions, at the Spring meeting and during Derby week, one has merely to follow the great streams of humanity which converge on the downs from the roads from London and from the railway stations. On ordinary days the wide rolling downs are generally left alone to the health-giving breezes which blow over them. In the town itself there is much to be seen of the seventeenth-century architecture