Discovery of the Yosemite, and the Indian War of 1851, Which Led to That Event. Lafayette Houghton Bunnell

head proud and high! white brow to the sky!

       Thy features the thunderbolts dare!

       Thou o’erlookest the wall would the boldest appal

       Who enter Yosemite’s “Lair.”2 Fair “Bridal Veil Fall!” the queen over all, In beauty and grace intertwined! Even now from thy height water-rockets of light Dart away, and seem floating in wind!

      And thou, high “Scho-look!” proud “Ah-wah-ne!” invoke

       To receive from “Kay-o-pha”3 a boon! That flowing from pines, in the region of vines, May temper the heat of bright noon. “Nevada” and “Vernal,” emblems eternal Of winter and loveliest Spring, No language so bold the truth can unfold— No pen can thee offerings bring!

      And yet dare I say, of the cool “Vernal Spray,”

       In the flash of the bright sun’s power,

       I welcome thy “ring,”4 though a drenching it bring, The smile of a god’s in the shower! And thou, “Glacier Fall,”5 from thy adamant wall, And winter-bound lakes at thy head— Thy nymphs never seen, except by the sheen So fitful from “Mirror Lake’s” bed.

      Ye North and South Domes,6 “Ten-ie-ya’s” lake homes, “Cloud’s Rest,” and high “Tis-sa-ack” lone; Mute “Sentinel,” “Brothers,” ye “Starr King,” ye others— Oh! what of the past have ye known? To you has been given the mission from heaven To watch through the ages of earth! Your presence sublime is the chronicled time, From the æon the world had birth!

      VIEW OF THE YOSEMITE.

      Looking up the valley from a height of about 1,000 feet above the Merced River, and above sea level 5,000 feet, giving some faint idea of the beauty, grandeur and magnitude of this magnificent work of nature.

DISCOVERY OF THE YOSEMITE.

       Table of Contents

CHAPTER I.

       Table of Contents

      Incidents leading to the discovery of the Yosemite Valley—Major Savage and Savages—Whiskey, wrangling and War—Skinned Alive—A brisk Fight—Repulse—Another Fight, and Conflagration.

      During the winter of 1849–50, while ascending the old Bear Valley trail from Ridley’s ferry, on the Merced river, my attention was attracted to the stupendous rocky peaks of the Sierra Nevadas. In the distance an immense cliff loomed, apparently to the summit of the mountains. Although familiar with nature in her wildest moods, I looked upon this awe-inspiring column with wonder and admiration. While vainly endeavoring to realize its peculiar prominence and vast proportions, I turned from it with reluctance to resume the search for coveted gold; but the impressions of that scene were indelibly fixed in my memory. Whenever an opportunity afforded, I made inquiries concerning the scenery of that locality. But few of the miners had noticed any of its special peculiarities. On a second visit to Ridley’s, not long after, that towering mountain which had so profoundly interested me was invisible, an intervening haze obscuring it from view. A year or more passed before the mysteries of this wonderful land were satisfactorily solved.

      During the winter of 1850–51, I was attached to an expedition that made the first discovery of what is now known as the Yosemite Valley. While entering it, I saw at a glance that the reality of my sublime vision at Ridley’s ferry, forty miles away, was before me. The locality of the mysterious cliff was there revealed—its proportions enlarged and perfected.

      The discovery of this remarkable region was an event intimately connected with the history of the early settlement of that portion of California. During 1850, the Indians in Mariposa county, which at that date included all the territory south of the divide of the Tuolumne and Merced rivers within the valley proper of the San Joaquin, became very troublesome to the miners and settlers. Their depredations and murderous assaults were continued until the arrival of the United States Indian commissioners, in 1851, when the general government assumed control over them. Through the management of the commissioners, treaties were made, and many of these Indians were transferred to locations reserved for their special occupancy.

      It was in the early days of the operations of this commission that the Yosemite Valley was first entered by a command virtually employed to perform the special police duties of capturing and bringing the Indians before these representatives of the government, in order that treaties might be made with them. These wards of the general government were provided with supplies at the expense of the public treasury: provided that they confined themselves to the reservations selected for them.

      My recollections of those early days are from personal observations and information derived from the earlier settlers of the San Joaquin valley, with whom I was personally acquainted in the mining camps, and through business connections; and also from comrades in the Indian war of 1850–51. Among these settlers was one James D. Savage, a trader, who in 1849–50 was located in the mountains near the mouth of the South Fork of the Merced river, some fifteen miles below the Yosemite valley.

      At this point, engaged in gold mining, he had employed a party of native Indians. Early in the season of 1850 his trading post and mining camp were attacked by a band of the Yosemite Indians. This tribe, or band, claimed the territory in that vicinity, and attempted to drive Savage off. Their real object, however, was plunder. They were considered treacherous and dangerous, and were very troublesome to the miners generally.

      Savage and his Indian miners repulsed the attack and drove off the marauders, but from this occurrence he no longer deemed this location desirable. Being fully aware of the murderous propensities of his assailants, he removed to Mariposa Creek, not far from the junction of the Agua Fria, and near to the site of the old stone fort. Soon after, he established a branch post on the Fresno, where the mining prospects became most encouraging, as the high water subsided in that stream. This branch station was placed in charge of a man by the name of Greeley.

      At these establishments Savage soon built up a prosperous business. He exchanged his goods at enormous profits for the gold obtained from his Indian miners. The white miners and prospecting parties also submitted to his demands rather than lose time by going to Mariposa village. The value of his patrons’ time was thus made a source of revenue. As the season advanced, this hardy pioneer of commerce rapidly increased his wealth, but in the midst of renewed prosperity he learned that another cloud was gathering over him. One of his five squaws assured him that a combination was maturing among the mountain Indians, to kill or drive all the white men from the country, and plunder them of their property. To strengthen his influence over the principal tribes, Savage had, according to the custom of many mountain men, taken wives from among them, supposing his personal safety would be somewhat improved by so doing. This is the old story of the prosperous Indian trader. Rumor also came from his Indian miners, that the Yosemites threatened to come down on him again for the purpose of plunder, and that they were urging other tribes to join them.

      These reports he affected to disregard, but quietly cautioned the miners to guard against marauders.

      He also sent word to the leading men in the settlements that hostilities were threatened, and advised preparations against a surprise.

      At his trading posts he treated the rumors with indifference, but instructed the men in his employ to be continually on their guard in his absence. Stating that he was going to “the Bay” for a stock of goods, he started for San Francisco, taking with him two Indian wives, and a chief of some note and influence who professed great friendship.

      This Indian, Jose Juarez, was in reality one of the leading spirits in arousing hostilities against the whites.

      Notwithstanding