Western World Costume. Carolyn G. Bradley

ways, 10th, 11th, and 12th centuries; cape or cope fastened at shoulder with large brooch, used for formal wear.Hair: similar to that worn by man during Empire Period of Rome, cut medium-short and brushed away from crown of head, or in a bob with bang on forehead, the hair at the back often long and turned under; beard rare before 9th century; neatly trimmed beard and moustache after 9th century; tonsure.Headdress: petasus; cucullus; Phrygian cap; cowl of monk’s gown; fillet or gold circlet; diadem of double strand of pearls and a jewel, 5th-8th century; then low metal circlet which became taller and more ornate, developing into crown with ropes of pearls hanging over each ear; imperial crown about 5 inches high, adorned with inset jewels and pendant pearls, worn by Justinian.1. Bracco 2. Cowl on Monk’s Gown 3. Dalmatica 4. Angustus Clavus 5. Circlet 6. Abolla 7. Bracco or Braies 8. SlipperFootwear: openwork red boot, or sandal with buckle at ankle, 5th century; slipper introduced with toe pointed or following shape of foot; real shoe of soft fabric or leather, and heelless, taking place of sandal in 6th century; boot worn by consul; hose and shoe with ankle strap worn by courtiers, also toeless boot; hose and shoe, or bare foot, for lower classes, 7th-9th century; tall, red leather boot, 10th-12th century; gradual adoption of painted and embroidered shoe; pedule.Accessories: sudarium; reliquary; stole; lorum; mappa used by consul; orb and scepter carried by emperor; scepter with imperial eagle carried by consul; knife; glove of fur, or leather trimmed with fur and gold embroidery, for nobleman; less ornate, for working class; pouch or wallet; waist belt of gold filigree with medallion of metal, or jeweled leather.Jewelry: heavy jeweled collar; earrings; finger rings; brooch to hold cloak; filigree decoration; Greco-Roman influence until 4th century; later, Oriental styles; gold; emerald, sapphire, ruby, diamond, and pearls; mosaic, and enamel.Typical Colors: black, gray, white, brown, green, blue, red, plum, violet, and royal purple; gold and purple very important in 10th century, royal purple reserved for Emperor and his subjects, not permitted to be taken out of Byzantium; dalmatica, sometimes of red on gold background, with jeweled border at neckline, sleeve, and hem; colored, circular decoration at top of each sleeve; colored shoes with embroidery of silk, gold, and jewels; white pedule by lower class.Typical Materials: cloth of silk, taffeta, sarcenet, damask, brocatelle, lampos, velvet, tapestry, and brocade; cloth with embroidery; linen, wool, and cotton also used; no limit to extravagance, A.D. 350-700; often stripes of pure gold woven throughout fabric; complex weaving of stylized patterns.Make-up: apparently none.

      3 WOMENGarments:Outer upper and outer lower: stola 5th-9th century, with high, round or low neckline, and tight, long sleeve; sleeve and body of dress cut in one, fitted and unbelted, or girded above or at normal waistline; variation of chiton, length to floor; angustus clavus, and latus clavus; dalmatica held by sash, 7th, 8th, and 9th centuries; tunica worn under dalmatica; sometimes 1 or more stolas, worn with knee-length palla, both held in place by girdle; sleeveless over- garment reaching to knee, and girded with jeweled belt, 10th and 11th centuries, also shorter, wide-sleeved tunic over close-sleeved, white undertunic; ungirded, fitted dalmatica over stola, 5th and 6th centuries worn by lower classes; tunic girded at waist by lower class, 7th, 8th, and 9th centuries.Under: high-necked, long-sleeved chemise often visible beneath tunic, or white stola.Cloaks and overgarments: palla; small scarf; rectangular shawl; cape or chasuble; semicircular cloak fastened on right shoulder, worn by the Empresses of 5th and 6th centuries; semicircular cloak held in front by brooch, 7th, 8th, and 9th centuries; hooded cloak.1. Tablion 2. Tonsure 3. Reliquary 4. Mappa 5. Segmentum 6. Lorum 7. Latus Clavus 8. ChemiseHair: hairdress resembling that of Roman woman of 4th century, worn in 6th century; hair often covered by turban; 2 long braids, with an extra lock braided closely behind the ear; metal ornaments and pearls as decoration at close of 10th century; braids sometimes brought up over outside of caul and fastened with jeweled band at forehead; rolled pompadour, sometimes frizzed, neck and ears exposed.Headdress: Oriental type of headdress, a circular roll over skull cap, at end of 4th century; large rectangular veil; veil hung from jeweled band around head, 6th century; hair concealed by turban; later, turban with color according to caste, sometimes with diadem; veil secured by fillet, 7th-9th century; Chinese influence in hats, 10th-11th century; hair ornaments Oriental in style; triangular-shaped gold net or white veil restrained hair at back; white cap worn by lower class.Footwear: footwear similar to that worn by man; slipper, transition between sandal and shoe, 5th century; red shoe worn by woman of high rank; real shoe worn in place of sandal, 6th century; low-cut shoe with strap over ankle.Accessories: sash over dalmatica; sudarium carried in left hand; girdle made of cord, gold plates, or jeweled leather; lorum; reliquary carried as charm; stiletto-like hairpin with ivory or metal head, resembling those of the Greek.Jewelry: workmanship showing Greco-Roman influence until end of 4th century; yellow gold; engraved ring of bronze, silver or gold; inscription or monogram used on ring for engagement and marriage; charm ring; intaglio and cameo; large elaborate pendant earrings; fibula; pearl, emerald, sapphire, ruby, diamond, mosaic work in bracelet; broad jeweled collar with pearls and precious stones, showing Egyptian influence, worn over tunic and mantle; gold dalmatica often decorated with square plaques of gold filigree set with pearls, rubies, and emeralds; girdle of enameled plaques or circlets.1. Cucullus 2. Clavus 3. Pedules 4. Petasus 5. Phrygian Cap 6. Pallium 7. Paludementum 8. StolaTypical Colors: gold and emerald ornamentation for stola; white tunic. Refer to B. 7.Typical Materials: Refer to B. 8.Make-up: apparently none.

      SIGNIFICANT MOTIFS

      Acanthus and palmetto foliage; Christian emblems including the crown, the vine, the dove, the conventional animal form, geometric and abstract designs, and an intricate pattern of the scroll, leaf flower, and fruit.

      INFLUENCES ON LATER COSTUMES

      Rich fabrics used later in the Renaissance period; hood, 1640; tiara, 1890; evening wrap and hood, 20th century; monk-like dress, 1938 and ’39; costume jewelry and belt, 1940’s; hairdress, 1940’s; modern cut and sewn garments often following Byzantine styles; coat with hood, 1948.

      BOOKS OF REFERENCE

      (See also GENERAL BIBLIOGRAPHY, p. 433)

      Houston, Mary Galway, Ancient Greek, Roman and Byzantine Costume, Vol. 2 (London, A. and C. Black, Ltd., 1931)

      Norris, Herbert, Costume and Fashion, Vol. 1 (New York, E. P. Dutton and Co., 1925)

      GLOSSARY

      Abolla—refer to Chap. 5. Pl. X, 6.

      Angustus Clavus—refer to Chap. 5. Pl. X, 4.

      Bracco or Braies—the former, a loose-fitting leg covering or hose; the latter, usually close-fitting, with or without cross-gartering. Refer to Chap. 5. Pl. X, 1, 7.

      Cape—refer to Chaps. 2, 3, 4.

      Chasuble—round or oval in shape, with a hole for the head; used also as an ecclesiastical garment. Pl. XIII, 4.

      Chemise—undergarment with long sleeve that showed beneath sleeve of outer garment. Pl. XI, 8.

      Chiton—revival of Greek costume. Refer to Chap. 4. Pl. XIII, 3.

      Circlet—refer to Chaps. 2, 5. Pl. X, 5.

      Clavus—extended to below the breast. Refer to Chap. 5. Pl. XII, 2.

      Collar—refer to Chap. 2. Pl. XIII, 5.

      1. Stole 2. Tunic or Tunica 3. Chiton 4. Chasuble 5. Collar

      Colobium—refer to Chap. 5.

      Cope—half circular, formal cape—from Latin word capa.

      Cowl—the hood of a monk’s gown attached to the back of the collar and pulled over the head if desired. Pl. X, 2.

      Cucullus—refer to Chap. 5. Pl. Xll, 1.

      Dalmatica—refer to Chap. 5. Pl. X, 3.

      Damask—silk or linen cloth with a figured satin weave, named from the city of Damascus where it was first manufactured.

      Diadem—refer to Chaps. 3, 4, 5.