BKLN Manners. Kate Naito

proven models of training. Failing that, find out if a trainer has graduated from a dog-training school or apprenticeship program; the trainer should mention this information on his or her website or provide it upon request. But, again, because dog training is unregulated, some programs are excellent and others are not. Research the program to see its philosophy, which should emphasize positive training (also called force-free or rewards-based training). Be wary of trainers or schools that frequently use words like alpha, dominance, or wolf pack, because these terms indicate an outdated and inaccurate understanding of dog behavior. Lastly, a trainer’s membership in associations such as the Association of Professional Dog Trainers (APDT) or a dog-sport association is a plus, but just be aware that these organizations do not evaluate trainers’ qualifications. That being said, if you see that a trainer holds a leadership position in any association, or participates in canine sports, or volunteers in animal rescue, it usually indicates an individual who sees dogs not just as a job but as a passion.

      The most difficult behavior problems often fall to behaviorists, who have the highest qualifications and are harder to find than trainers, depending on your area. If someone calls him- or herself a behaviorist, look for credentials. Technically, the term behaviorist refers to applied animal behaviorists (look for CAAB or ACAAB) or veterinary behaviorists (DACVB); these are professionals with advanced academic degrees. Other acronyms that indicate experienced behavior consultants include IAABC, CDBC, CBCC, and CABC. If a professional claims to be a behaviorist, he or she should have some kind of certification to back it up.

      It’s also worth noting that seemingly everyone—your neighbors, your vet, your groomer, complete strangers—fancy themselves experts on dog training. Please ignore every single one of them. Yes, even your vet, unless he or she has been formally trained in behavior. (Surprisingly, vets generally do not take coursework in animal behavior.) You wouldn’t want me, a trainer, diagnosing your dog’s illness, right? And you certainly wouldn’t want to leave me with a pair of scissors and your hairy pooch for the day! So for all things doggie, please only take advice from trained and trusted professionals in that specific field.

      It’s common for a dog to be distracted by the sights, sounds, and smells of the city.

      Let’s Get this Party Started

      It’s time to get training! Before you start, keep a few things in mind.

      Tip 1: Training is a time to put your emotions aside. If you’ve had a terrible day and your last nerve is about to snap, the training can wait. Likewise, if you find yourself or your dog getting frustrated in the middle of a training session, it’s time for a break. I’d suggest short training sessions of five minutes or less, especially for young dogs. Additionally, always begin and end on a positive note. To do this, I warm up by beginning each training session with something the dog already knows. For instance, if my goal for a training session is a ten-second Stay, I will warm up with a regular old Sit, which the dog already knows. Then, when I’m ready to end the training session, I have two options: (1) I can practice until my dog achieves four-for-four at a new level, like a perfect Stay at ten seconds. This assumes that both our heads are still fully in the game and neither of us feels frustrated. (2) If one of us is showing early signs of struggling, I’ll make my last cue an easy one so the dog will definitely be able to do it correctly. For example, if my dog is getting frustrated and making mistakes with a ten-second Stay, I’ll reduce it to five seconds, get a good response, and end there. If you can’t get a good response at the easier level, don’t push it. Take a break. Just ask yourself, “Why did my dog (or I) feel so frustrated?” and aim to avoid putting yourselves in that situation in the future.

      Tip 2: Use four-for-four when training to ensure that your dog truly understands each step. I also recommend documenting your progress in (see Appendix) by noting exactly where you leave off in each training session. Imagine if you don’t record your progress. “Was it a Place with 1 foot or 2 feet of distance between me and the dog’s mat?” To avoid that kind of confusion, record the highest level of training you achieved each session, such as, “Place with 18 inches between me and the mat.” Then, when you start your next session, you can warm up with an easier Place, at 1 foot away, and then increase to greater distances. Be methodical in your training, and you’ll reap the rewards for your dog’s entire life.

      Tip 3: Real-life training takes time, and all dogs learn at their own pace. We’re often inspired by dog-training television shows, thrilling agility events, or incredible musical freestyle routines, but these things can also dishearten us when we look at our own dogs. Just remember that behind every success story are countless hours of hard work, complete with setbacks and frustration, breakthroughs and joy. Even the most incredible doggie stars had to start by learning not to jump, not to pull on the leash, and not to destroy the furniture. So my advice is to meet your dog where he is, even if it seems like you’re not making progress as quickly as you’d like.

      It can feel frustrating when you think your dog “should” know a certain behavior by now, and it’s easy to blame the dog and assume that he is an evil genius who is playing mind games with you. In reality, your dog is failing to do what you’re asking because he truly does not yet understand how to perform that behavior in that environment. Many owners tell me, “My dog knows how to sit, but he refuses to do it outside.” In fact, the dog may have learned how to sit inside the home, but he doesn’t have a clue that the Sit cue means “sit” outdoors, too. He’s not playing tricks, he simply hasn’t been taught that “Sit” applies to all environments, including outdoors. The chapters that follow will show you how to teach polite behaviors so that your dog generalizes them, which means that he understands the cue in all situations. Great dogs are made, not born, and regardless of your dog’s size, age, or breed, he can learn to be a polite member of your family.

      Chapter 2: Training: First Things First

      Almost every day, I walk past a hapless dog owner, yelling at her dog to “Sit, sit, sit!” at the crosswalk, while her oblivious dog is completely focused on an overweight city squirrel up ahead. Frustration building, the owner pushes the dog’s rear end down, which only causes the dog to squirm away from the pressure. Eventually, the owner either gives up or starts to get physical. But the truth is, the attempt to train here was dead before it even started. Why? Because the owner never got her dog’s attention before asking for the Sit behavior.

      Often we ask our dogs to do things, particularly to sit or to come, when their attention is consumed by something else, making this an unfair request. If you’re engrossed in playing a video game, and your roommate asks you to clean the kitchen, you might not even hear her request. But if your roommate asks you while your attention is fully on her, you’ll surely respond. (Whether you’ll actually clean the kitchen is another matter.) Likewise, when training a dog, it’s important to get his attention first and then ask him to perform a behavior.

      But First, Eye Contact

      It’s no wonder our dogs have trouble paying attention to us, especially outdoors. The urban world is a highly distracting place for your dog: squirrels hopping, other dogs approaching, ambulance sirens blaring, and the delicious contents of ripped garbage bags beckoning. It’s likely your dog doesn’t even know you’re there on the walk with him. But once he learns that it’s rewarding to look at you, even when distractions are present, you can control him in all situations. That’s all you need: a look. Having a well-behaved dog isn’t about how many tricks he can do or how many cues he knows, but rather how well he can pay attention to you in any environment. Once your dog learns to look at you, you can prevent him from lunging at, chasing, or barking at distractions simply by asking for his attention and, when you have it, by cuing him to do something polite. But without getting his attention first, you won’t be able to ask for the polite behavior.