Pug. Juliette Cunliffe

       SKIN PROBLEMS

      Eczema and dermatitis are skin problems that occur in many breeds, and they often can be tricky problems to solve. Frequently bathing the dog will remove skin oils and will cause the problem to worsen. Allergies to food or to something in the environment can also cause the problem. Consider trying homeopathic remedies in addition to seeing your veterinarian for direction.

       BREED STANDARD FOR THE PUG

      The breed standard for the Pug is set down by the Pug Dog Club of America, approved by the American Kennel Club and revised occasionally by the parent club.

      A breed standard is designed effectively to paint a picture in words, though each reader will almost certainly have a slightly different way of interpreting these words. However, reading the words alone is never enough to fully comprehend the intricacies of a breed. In addition, it is necessary for Pug devotees to watch other Pugs being judged at shows and, if possible, to attend breed seminars, thus enabling them to absorb as much as possible about the breed they love so much.

       SQUARE AND COBBY

      The general appearance of the Pug is square and cobby, described in Latin as multum in parvo, relating to the breed’s compactness and meaning “a lot in a small space.”

      Breed standards vary slightly from country to country, so judges, when officiating outside the USA, should always aim to assess the dogs in relation to the standard of the country concerned.

      Each AKC standard commences with a short section under the heading “General Appearance” that gives a short précis of what the breed should look like. From this opening sentence, you can see immediately that a typical Pug should be decidely square and cobby; therefore, an excessively longlegged or long-backed Pug would be untypical of the breed.

      It is generally accepted that it is not necessary for a judge to peer inside a Pug’s mouth, merely to feel the shape of the jaw and to look at the expression created. However, the standard does state that the mouth is to be very slightly undershot. This means that, although they should not show, the lower teeth protrude ever so slightly more than the upper ones, giving the desired expression. From this we can see that understanding the meaning of the words written in the standard is important.

      However familiar one is with the breed, it is always worth refreshing one’s memory by rereading the standard, for it is sometimes too easy to conveniently forget certain features of the breed, such as that the nails on a Pug should be black.

      The standard undoubtedly helps breeders to breed stock that comes as close to the standard as possible and helps judges to know exactly what they are looking for in choosing as typical a Pug as possible to head their line of winners.

THE AMERICAN KENNEL CLUB STANDARD FOR THE PUG

      General Appearance: Symmetry and general appearance are decidedly square and cobby. A lean, leggy Pug and a dog with short legs and a long body are equally objectionable.

       Ribbons are awarded at dog shows to the dogs that most closely conform to their breed standard. This young man has had a successful day showing his handsome Pug.

      Size, Proportion, Substance: The Pug should be multum in parvo, and this condensation (if the word may be used) is shown by compactness of form, well knit proportions, and hardness of developed muscle. Weight from 14 to 18 pounds (dog or bitch) desirable. Proportion square.

       SELECTIVE BREEDING

      It was once thought that the Pug’s short face came about because puppies’ nasal bones were deliberately crushed. However, this is a fallacy. This breed’s shortened foreface has been developed through centuries of selective breeding.

      Head: The head is large, massive, round—not apple-headed, with no indentation of the skull. The eyes are dark in color, very large, bold and prominent, globular in shape, soft and solicitous in expression, very lustrous, and, when excited, full of fire. The ears are thin, small, soft, like black velvet. There are two kinds—the “rose” and the “button.” Preference is given to the latter. The wrinkles are large and deep. The muzzle is short, blunt, square, but not upfaced. Bite: A Pug’s bite should be very slightly undershot.

      Neck, Topline, Body: The neck is slightly arched. It is strong, thick and with enough length to carry the head proudly. The short back is level from the withers to the high tail set. The body is short and cobby, wide in chest and well ribbed up. The tail is curled as tightly as possible over the hip. The double curl is perfection.

      Forequarters: The legs are very strong, straight, of moderate length, and are set well under. The elbows should be directly under the withers when viewed from the side. The shoulders are moderately laid back. The pasterns are strong, neither steep nor down. The feet are neither so long as the foot of the hare, nor so round as that of the cat; well split-up toes, and the nails black. Dewclaws are generally removed.

      Hindquarters: The strong, powerful hindquarters have moderate bend of stifle and short hocks perpendicular to the ground. The legs are parallel when viewed from behind. The hindquarters are in balance with the forequarters. The thighs and buttocks are full and muscular. Feet as in front.

      Coat: The coat is fine, smooth, soft, short and glossy, neither hard nor woolly.

       PEDIGREE VS. REGISTRATION CERTIFICATE

      Too often new owners are confused between these two important documents. Your puppy’s pedigree, essentially a family tree, is a written record of a dog’s genealogy of three generations or more. The pedigree will show you the names as well as performance titles of all dogs in your pup’s background. Your breeder must provide you with a registration application, with his part properly filled out. You must complete the application and send it to the AKC with the proper fee.

      The seller must provide you with complete records to identify the puppy. The AKC requires that the seller provide the buyer with the following: breed; sex, color and markings; date of birth; litter number (when available); names and registration numbers of the parents; breeder’s name; and date sold or delivered.

      Color: The colors are silver, apricot-fawn, or black. The silver or apricot-fawn colors should be decided so as to make the contrast complete between the color and the trace and the mask.

      Markings: The markings are clearly defined. The muzzle or mask, ears, moles on cheeks, thumb mark or diamond on forehead, and the back trace should be as black as possible. The mask should be black. The more intense and well defined it is, the better. The trace is a black line extending from the occiput to the tail.

      Gait: Viewed from the front, the forelegs should be carried well forward, showing no weakness in the pasterns, the paws landing squarely with the central toes straight ahead. The rear action should be strong and free through hocks and stifles, with no twisting or turning in or out at the joints. The hind legs should follow in line with the front. There is a slight natural convergence of the limbs both fore and aft. A slight roll of the hindquarters typifies the gait which should be free, selfassured and jaunty.

      Temperament: