The GR10 Trail. Brian Johnson

GR10 goes straight on up a track then follows the main track left at a junction and forks right up a path, veering left at the top of the fence to reach a tarmac road. In good weather you might like to climb the grassy Pic Iguzki (843m) to the E regaining the GR10 at the Col de Méhatché. The GR10 follows the road right along the N slopes of the hill to reach the Col de Méhatché (3hr 35min, 716m).

      From the Col de Méhatché you could climb Artzamendi (926m) following the tarmac road to the communications complex on the summit or Pic Iguzki (844m) by its grassy northeast ridge.

      The GR10 turns half-right, E, to reach a ridge which is followed past borderstone 82 and on to borderstone 83 at the Col d’Artzatey. Skirt left of the next top to the next col (3hr 55min, 630m). Before reaching the barn on the col, turn sharp right and descend steeply into a crag-bound valley. A rough rocky path then descends down the N slopes of the valley. There are now wires to protect the most exposed rocksteps.

      Towards the bottom of the descent a small path goes steeply up to the left to the Grotte le Saint-que-Sue (Harpeko Saindua). Legend suggests that a young shepherdess was found ‘petrified’ in the rock. The cave became a shrine and site of pilgrimage with claims that the ‘holy water’ oozing through the cave would cure skin and eye diseases.

      Eventually the path reaches a road (4hr 45min). Turn left along it before descending switchbacks to cross a bridge over Torrent le Bastan. Follow the road along or above the S bank of the river, passing a few swimming holes. About 20m before the road recrosses the river (5hr 20min), turn right up a steep path, then left along an old track. Fork right and then veer right round a ridge to reach a road by Gîte Urrizate. Follow the road, ignoring a sharp left turn, to arrive at the W end of Bidarray (5hr 45min, 150m). If you don’t need the facilities at Bidarray you could turn right here and start Stage 4. Head E down the road into Bidarray (5hr 45min, 150m).

      The main facilities for walkers are in the upper village where there is a small shop in the bar-restaurant Iparla complex and the Hôtel Barberaenea. There is a waterpoint outside the church as well as public toilets and further waterpoints in the churchyard. Bidarray is on the railway line between Bayonne and Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port. The station and the Hôtel Noblia are in the lower village beside the river. Camping Amestoya is also on the D918, about 2km N of Bidarray.

      FACILITIES FOR STAGE 3

      Col des Veaux

      Ferme Esteben, bar-restaurant and gîte d’étape: tel [phone], www.gites-refuges.com/v2/detail-1868.htm

      Venta Burkaitz, bar-restaurant, gîte d’étape and camping is possible but only open in high summer: tel [phone] (Spanish) or tel [phone] (French)

      Bidarray

      Hôtel Barberaenea: tel [phone], www.hotel-bidarray.com

      Hôtel-restaurant Noblia: tel [phone]

      Camping Amestoya: tel [phone], www.camping-bidarray.fr

      Arteka adventure school offers accommodation to hikers, if not fully booked: tel [phone], www.arteka-eh.com

      Gîte d’étape Aire Zabal (05 59 37 72 92) is also in upper village.

STAGE 4

      Bidarray to Saint-Étienne-de-Baïgorry

Start	Bidarray
Distance	16km
Total ascent	1300m
Total descent	1300m
Time	6hr 15min
High point	Pic d’Iparla (1044m), Buztanzelhay (1029m)

      The GR10 follows the magnificent border ridge over the Crête d’Iparla, reaching 1000m for the first time, before descending to Saint-Étienne-de-Baïgorry. It is probably best to assume there will be no available water until well down the descent to Saint-Étienne-de-Baïgorry. There are good, but exposed, campsites throughout the section. Waymarking is sparse in places along the ridge.

      Follow the road SSW from the W end of Bidarray, forking right then taking the second right to reach the roadhead at Urdabordia. Follow the track to the right of the farm and veer right, up a path, to reach the ridge. Follow the path up the ridge to a junction at a saddle (1hr). Ignore the ‘tourist path’ going right and continue climbing fairly easily up the ridge on a rocky path, skirting left of the upper crags. The path now climbs gently up grassy slopes, veering left to Point 905. Continue along the edge of the steep escarpment. After the Col d’Iparla (2hr 20min, 950m) the path becomes rougher, passing borderstone 90 before the final climb to the summit of Pic d’Iparla, marked by a concrete pillar (2hr 45min, 1044m).

      Pic d’Iparla, the first 1000m peak on the GR10

      Continue along the ridge over two minor tops and descend gently, on a rough path, to the Col de Gapelu and over another minor summit, Pic de Tutulia (983m) and SW down to Col d’Harrieta (3hr 35min, 808m), which is easily identified as the trees cross the ridge. There is a waterpoint signed along a path 400m SSW from the col, but the water looks as if it needs filtering and the reliability of the spring is questionable.In bad weather there is an escape route signed E from the col down to Urdos from where you can follow roads to Saint-Étienne-de-Baïgorry.

      Climb the ridge ahead, through the woods, skirting crags. Once out of the woods, the path climbs gently up the grassy ridge to a tiny cairn on Astate (4hr 15min, 1022m). Veer slightly right, following the ridge to descend to a col with the remains of an ancient burial mound and climb to the large summit cairn on Buztanzelhay (4hr 35min, 1029m). The path initially descends SW, to avoid crags, before veering SE to the Col de Buztanzelhay (843m). The GR10 forks left and descends steeply before veering right and contouring to a col (5hr 10min, 750m) on the E ridge of Aintziaga (905m). Cross the ridge and follow the path on the right flank before regaining the ridge at the head of a tarmac track.

      Follow this track, shortcutting a couple of switchbacks on the right, pass a waterpoint (running well in June 2014 and 2015) and fork right on a path along the ridgetop, just before the track descends left. Eventually the path veers sharp left, at a shooting butt, and descends to a narrow road (5hr 50min). Turn right, and then fork left down a path which shortcuts switchbacks in the road. On regaining the road, fork right and continue down, passing the holiday village VVF. Turn right at the gendarmerie to arrive at the D948 road in Saint-Étienne-de-Baïgorry.

      There is a bar-restaurant, toilets, pizzeria and tourist office where you reach the D948. Turn left and then right up the Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port road for the campground and the Intermarché supermarket, which stocks original and easy-clic camping gas.

      The GR10 goes right to cross la Nive des Aldudes (6hr 15min, 162m). If you don’t need the facilities in the village you could turn left here to start Stage 5.

      Turn right, W, along the river for a public park with water, toilets and picnic tables, the Spar supermarket, Gîte Gaineko Karrikan and the hotels. There is a bus service to Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port.

      FACILITIES FOR STAGE 4

      Saint-Étienne-de-Baïgorry

      Tourist office: tel [phone], www.pyrenees-basques.com