Yearn to Burn: A Pyrography Master Class. Simon Easton

hands do not become tired or painful through excessive effort. Do not work with a tangled cord, as this can lead to accidents if your movement becomes impeded. Do not use your machine if you believe it to be faulty or damaged in any way; get the kit checked by a qualified technician or the manufacturer if necessary.

       Nib Choice

      Nibs for pyrography machines are available in a range of sizes and shapes in order to allow you to make different lines and marks on your surface of choice. The principle is the same whether your machine is a solid point or hot wire; each shaped nib lends itself to a specific quality of line, pattern, or texture. Most pyrography machines have the capacity for the nibs to be changed in some way, whether this is through swapping a new nib into the holding posts of the pen unit or by using a range of different pens that all have a different nib fixed to them.

      The range of shaped nibs available is vast, but you will need to consider the limitations of your chosen machine. Some pens will only fit nibs that are specifically made by the same manufacturing company, so make sure you do not make a wasted purchase by buying incompatible accessories. This principle applies to most solid point machines because of the to the methods of fitting the metal nibs into the pen, which is usually through a screw thread technique or some similar method.

      Basic shaped wire nibs are not generally subject to such restrictions and can be used between a range of pyrography machine brands due to the generic structure of a pen with holding posts. This makes them a very affordable option, as you can shop around for the supplier or manufacturer offering the best prices and value for money without being tied to one company’s products. Wire nibs are often available in packs containing an assortment of different sizes or shapes, so you can also search for the brand that supplies the option most suited to your own individual preference.

      When speaking to people interested in taking up pyrography as a hobby, I am regularly asked about nibs and which ones I would recommend as being essential to own. I always explain that pyrography is like many other arts or crafts—such as painting or woodturning, for example—in that there are an almost infinite range of brushes or tools available, but you do not need to own every single one in order to achieve the best results. In my view and from my own experience, I always state that there are four main types of pyrography nib that I would describe as essential for any crafter. I believe that you can create a wide range of marks and effects with just those four nib types alone. My basic pyrography nib palette would include the following four types of nibs described below and here.

      • A writing nib creates a broad range of lines and marks smoothly over various surfaces. This can include a basic single wire loop nib (shaped in a “U”) or a more specialty option such as a ballpoint nib.

      • A fine or bladed nib is used to burn crisp, sharp lines or for work that requires fine detail. The nib can be drawn easily over the surface for linear marks, or the sharp point can be used to create precise features of a design. This type includes the skew- or spear-point nib.

      • A spoon point nib was named for its distinctive spoon-shaped profile. This nib is possibly one of the most versatile forms available and is one of my personal favorites (as described on here).

      • A broad shading nib is used to fill in larger areas of tone more efficiently due to the increased size of the surface area that is in contact with the material to be burned. These nibs are available in a range of different shapes and forms.

If you were restricted to working with just a single pyrography nib, my recommendation would always be to choose the spoon point nib due to its adaptability over a wide range of effects. The lip of the nib can be used to create fine lines and sharper marks. The nib itself can be rotated so that the bowl of the spoon point is brought in contact with the surface, creating a softer and broader mark that is suited to shading or similar effects. With just this single nib, I could happily work on and complete a wide range of pyrography designs and would not feel restricted or limited in any way through only having a single “weapon” in my arsenal. The spoon point is my nib of choice for versatility and flexibility.

      With hot wire machines, you also have the option to buy a quantity of Nichrome^TM pyrography wire that you can then cut to length and use to make your own wire nibs. These can be shaped into any form that you like in order to make them just right for a mark that you need to incorporate in your chosen project. You can coil the wire to increase the surface area for a broader shading effect, or you can consider filing or shaping the wire loop into a finer point or edge for more detailed linear work; the options are endless.

      Creating Marks

      The marks that you create with your pyrography machines are affected by a range of factors. These include the temperature setting that you have chosen, the shape or type of nib, the pressure that you use to apply the nib to the surface, and the duration of time that you leave the nib in contact. Adjusting any one of these variables will enable you to change the sort of mark, line, or shade that you create. Higher temperatures, increased pressure, or longer contact will result in darker or more distinct marks, while the opposite approach will create lighter and more delicate effects.

      Take care to practice your mark-making techniques on scrap wood before you move onto a final piece. I always recommend that new crafters build up a library or scrapbook of mark-making results so that you can learn what you can achieve with different nibs and techniques. You can then retain these for future reference. This will help you have something to look back through when you are trying to achieve a certain line, texture, or pattern in a project. It will also help you to learn how to use your pyrography machine to the best of your ability without ruining a potential finished piece. The use of heat to create marks on a surface can be quite unforgiving, so it is always best to practice your techniques as much as possible before translating them into something you are creating for a purpose.

      Use your pyrography pen in the same way that you would use a regular pen or pencil to draw with. Make sure that your grip is comfortable yet relaxed and try to work in the direction that your hand and wrist naturally want to move; attempting to go against that in a forced manner can result in lines that are uneven or of a poor quality. It is common to move the piece of material that you are working on numerous times as you burn a design, so that it is positioned in a way that you can make the marks naturally and without any unnecessary strain or discomfort.

      Shading Techniques

      Shading helps to create a sensation of form, depth, and texture in your pyrography designs. As with basic mark making, it is another technique that requires practice to become adept and confident. Broader shading nibs are extremely useful for creating areas of tone without looking scratchy or uneven. I recommend starting any shading at the lighter end of the tonal spectrum; if you shade too darkly at the beginning of a design, it can be very hard to amend the error. Starting with lighter tones and gradually building up to the darker shades through careful application or “layers” reduces the prospect of ending up with something that you cannot correct. Start with a lower temperature and don’t press too hard on the surface. Try to keep the motion of your nib across the surface as smooth as possible, gliding lightly to build