Preserving the Season. Mary Tregellas

nothing compared to the amount of preserves and bottled fruits that lined the shelves of our German relatives’ shelves. Nothing I’ve made has ever come close to my Aunt Hanne’s great parfait jars of apricot and strawberry jam. And, of course, my mother would make her own—redcurrant jelly in memory of her grandmother’s garden, pear and ginger jam, tomato chutney...

      My own adventures with making jam started with an overenthusiastic greengage plum tree and the pleasure of giving my jam-loving mother an endless supply. Then we acquired a plot of land and, with it, further challenges: what to do with a glut of zucchini? (Chutney!) Or tomatoes? (Ketchup!) Add to that my childhood passion for picking wild fruit and the guardianship of my family home in Devon, England (whose small garden still yields the most delicious pears in the world), and the result is a cupboard full of jams, jellies, chutneys, sauces, and other delights to spread on toast, liven up a cheese sandwich, or accompany pies and sausages.

      I have come to realize a simple fact: making preserves makes me happy. Chopping up a pile of fruit or vegetables, cooking them up with sugar, spices, and vinegar, and, thereby, transforming them into something both delicious and attractive is intensely pleasing. I view all cookery as a form of alchemy, but perhaps none more so than the art of preserving, when the flavors and aromas of something short-lived are captured in a pot to be savored throughout the coming year. But the preserves themselves are only part of the story. There is matchmaking to be done, too, whether it’s bringing together the happiest of old couples such as toast and marmalade or cheese and pickle, or forming new introductions. They also come into their own as ingredients in baked puddings, cakes, and savory dishes. I hope that this book will reacquaint you with some old favorites, encourage you to try new things, and inspire you to come up with a few new ideas of your own.

      The four sisters (left to right) Tante Jenny, Tante Trude, Tante Betty, and my grandmother Antonie.

      My mother (aged 4) with her grandfather, Jarcová, Moravia (Czechoslovakia), 1930.

      My mother (aged 4), Beskydy Mountains, Moravia, 1930.

      My mother, Tante Betty, and my father (Father), Innsbruck, Austria, 1962.

      My brother John, father, mother, and me, 1969.

      The Tasting Panel—my family—Ben with (left to right) James, Alexander and Edward.

      Seasonal preserves

      Last year, our refrigerator died. While the insurance claim was underway, we lived for several weeks with a small borrowed fridge that just fit the everyday essentials. Such a seemingly small change to our kitchen had a huge impact on our shopping and eating habits. We reverted to buying small quantities daily, and nothing was bought without considering how to store and cook it. I rather enjoyed the challenge.

      My favorite childhood book was Laura Ingalls Wilder’s Little House in the Big Woods; I loved her stories of stocking up for times ahead. She describes a whole range of preserving techniques and skills that are part of a centuries-old way of life: smoking, freezing, cheesemaking, collecting sap to make into maple syrup, storing the fruits and vegetables that keep, and preserving the rest in jams and pickles. Skip forward 140 years and how things have changed!

      With most produce available year round, and ever larger fridges and freezers in which to store them, the seasons have become blurred. Nowadays, however, things are beginning to change. People are becoming more concerned about reducing their carbon footprints by buying from their local produce growers. There is also a larger appreciation for clean, simple food. This is helping to put the emphasis back on fresh, local, seasonal produce, and now we are rediscovering some of the old ways. We may no longer need to bake our own bread, to pick wild berries, or to make jam, but we can have a lot of fun doing it.

      Let the seasons be your guide: January and February are marmalade months, with wonderful, bitter Seville oranges in season; spring and early summer see the appearance of rhubarb and gooseberries, while creamy elderflowers cry out to be made into cordials. Then come the first strawberries, heralding the summer’s mad whirl of berries, stone fruit, and vegetables. In early autumn, apples and pears take center stage, and there are still plenty of hedgerow goodies to be foraged. By late autumn, things are slowing down; the shelves groaning with jars and bottles of beautiful homemade preserves to enjoy throughout the year ahead. Grab your wooden spoon: preserving is back in town!

      Stocking your pantry with preserves is a wonderful way to eat homemade food all year round.

      Though making preserves only requires a couple of tools, there are many others available that will help you get the job done.

      Useful equipment

      Many preserves can be made with the most basic equipment—a pan, a wooden spoon, and some jars—but there are some other handy tools to have on hand.

       Preserving Pan

      If you are going to invest in just one thing, then let it be a stainless steel preserving pan (or maslin pan). These are large, deep pans with sloped sides, which allow liquid to reduce more quickly and lessen the danger of hot preserves splashing everywhere. A large, heavy-based stainless steel saucepan is the best alternative. Avoid aluminum pans, which can affect the taste.

       Wooden Spoon

      One with a long handle is best—hot preserves can spit, so it is a good idea to keep a little distance between them and your hands. Avoid metal spoons, which can react with ingredients and discolor the preserves.

       Jam Thermometer

      These clip to the side of the pan and are used to prevent over-boiling. They also check the temperature of preserves to ensure that they have reached the correct temperature for setting. I rarely use mine for this, but do find it useful when pasteurizing cordials.

       Jam Funnel

      This is a special wide-mouthed funnel that makes it much easier to fill jars without spills. A narrow funnel is useful for filling bottles, too. An alternative is to pour the preserve into jars using a heatproof jug.

       Jelly Bag and Stand

      A fine-woven bag is used to strain the juice from the pulp when making jelly and cordials. Often sold with a stand, or with loops for hanging, they can also be attached to an upturned stool with a bowl underneath to catch the juice. Alternatively, line a large strainer with a double layer of muslin or fine cotton (such as an old, clean dish towel) and suspend over a deep bowl. The jelly bag should always be scalded in a saucepan of boiling water just before use.

      Making preserves doesn’t require many tools. A wooden spoon and some pots will easily get the job done.

      A jelly bag must be scalded in boiling water before each use.

       Muslin or Spice Ball

      Use a piece of muslin for tying whole spices together. A spice ball is a metal mesh container, usually on a chain,