Inspired Star Block Quilts. Sandy Berg

selvages off the ends so that you have a straight edge to start cutting from. Cut off sections the width needed for the units you are making.

      Strip sets are used in almost all of the patterns in the book, but there are many more shortcuts that can be used in other piecing techniques. If you are uncertain about a technique or looking for a shortcut, you can easily find many useful “how-to” videos on different topics on quilt shop websites and sites like YouTube. The best part is that you can view these as many times as needed until you are comfortable with the technique.

       Making Elongated Star Points

       This example shows the use of the Templates A and B from the Starry Night pattern, page, and Templates 1 and 2 for the stars in Star Chain, page. They work the same way but are a different size.

      1 Cut outside of the solid lines of the paper templates, and then use a glue stick to adhere them to pieces of template plastic. Cut through both layers (paper and plastic), clipping off the small corner near the narrow end of the template. This is very important when aligning pieces within a project.

      2 Two layers of fabric placed right sides together (RST) are used to cut the fabric for a star point. For this step-by-step, align the bottom of Template A with the bottom of the fabric strips. Cut out one template shape to make a left- and right-side star point. The star points will be mirror images of one another.

      3 Rotate Template A, placing the template bottom on the top of the fabric strip, and cut another shape. Continue rotating the template and cut out the shapes. By cutting with the two strips RST, you will always end up with one shape that is the reverse of the other.

      4 Keep the (2) shapes separated and marked.

      5 To cut the middle triangles of the star point units, use Template B. Align the template with the edges of the strip of fabric and cut out (1) template shape.

      6 Rotate the template on the strip and align one edge with the previous cut. Continue rotating and cutting the template to make additional shapes.

      7 To assemble the star points, place a star point and a reverse star point on either side of a background star triangle so that they form a square.

      8 Lay one of the star points on top of background triangle and use the trimmed corner to align the (2) pieces. Sew with a ¼" (0.64cm) seam. Press the seams open or to the dark side of the fabric. NOTE: To reduce bulk, press the seams open.

      9 Sew a star point to the opposite side in the same manner. Press the seams open or to the dark side of the fabric.

       Trimming the Salute to Service Blocks

       This example shows you how to make sure your blocks are trimmed to the recommended measurement.

      1 To square up these pieces, place a square ruler so that the top and right edges of the ruler are 2¼" (5.72cm) from where the (3) fabrics meet.

      2 Trim the fabric from the right and top edges.

      3 Turn the block so that the newly trimmed edges hit the 4½" (11.43cm) lines on the ruler. Again, trim the remaining fabric from the right and top edges for a perfect 4½" (11.43cm) block.

       Layering and Basting the Quilt

       The process of finishing your quilt involves layering the quilt top with the batting and backing in preparation for quilting.

      In order to do this, you must decide on your method of quilting, hand or machine quilt, and the quilting design you wish to use. Once you have determined how you will quilt the piece, you can choose the type of batting that will work best for your quilt. (See page, Batting.)

      Depending on your chosen quilting method and your quilting design, you may need to mark the design on the quilt top. If you have chosen to quilt in the ditch (stitching close to the seams), or will be doing an all-over quilting pattern with a free-motion technique, marking may not be necessary.

      If you do need to mark the design, using a removable marking tool is a good idea. Be sure to test the marker you have chosen on a small scrap of your fabrics to be sure that you can see it well and remove the marking lines when you are finished. (See page, Marking Tools, Rulers, and Templates.)

      If you will be quilting the quilt yourself, lay the backing wrong side up on a flat surface, smoothing it out as much as possible. Start with a piece of tape in the middle of one edge of the quilt backing, taping it to the surface. Move to the opposite side, smoothing the fabric as you go. Be careful not to stretch the fabric, just make it smooth and flat. Put another piece of tape in the middle of the opposite edge. Repeat this process with the other two sides. Continue working in this fashion from the center of the backing, moving out to the sides and corners until your backing is flat and snug, but not stretched. (If you are working on a carpeted floor, anchor the backing by sticking pins through the edge of the backing right into the carpeting, and anchoring in the same manner as if you were working on a hard surface.)

      Before layering the batting, allow it to relax for a day by laying it out flat, or put it in the dryer for few minutes to help smooth out any wrinkles and folds. Center the batting on top of the anchored batting and flatten it out as much as possible. Now you can layer the quilt top onto the backing and batting.

      Center the quilt top on the batting. If you plan to hand-quilt the project, baste the project with long lengths of thread every 4"–6" (10.16–15.24cm). Stitch in both directions, forming a grid. I suggest that you use thread that will contrast with the quilt top to make it easy to see. Work from the center of the quilt toward the outside edges, stitching in all directions.

      If you plan to quilt your project on your home sewing machine, you will need to pin baste the layers together. Place #2, rust-proof safety pins about every 3"–4" (7.62–10.16cm) across the entire quilt. You will need to pull pins out as you go if they are too close to the presser foot.

      Quilt the layers by hand or machine using thread that is appropriate to your quilting design and method. Again, read the label on your thread to be sure you are using a thread that is compatible with your quilting method and sewing machine. (Quilting thread is heavier than machine thread and should not be used in your machine.)

       Tips