The Epic of Mount Everest. Francis Edward Younghusband

by such terrific precipices there was no way of approaching it—except as a last resort up that steep ice-fall to the North Col. Nor was it possible by this Rongbuk Glacier to get over to the southern side and make an attempt from there. Even if there is a way up from that side the way to it is barred by an impossible southward-facing precipice.

      But the reconnaissance of the Rongbuk Glacier had issued in one important result: it had convinced him that the summit was accessible along the upper part of the mountain. Working downward from the summit he could see first that the North-East Ridge had a comparatively gentle slope for about three-quarters of a mile; next, that the North Face Edge leading up to this North-East Ridge from the North Col was practicable if steep. The question how to reach the North Col had not yet been solved. But once that Col could be reached the way farther up was practicable: on the Face Edge there was no excrescence of rock pinnacles or steep walls of rock; it was a bluntly rounded edge, comparatively smooth and continuous.

      So far so good. And now Mallory and Bullock must get round to the east side of Everest, both to solve this problem of access to the North Col, and also to see if there were any better way up from there. The south side of Everest was barred. They had examined the western half of the northern approach. They must now examine the eastern portion.