Mountains and Moorlands. W. Pearsall H.

      Much British mountain scenery is that characteristic of a glaciated and ice-eroded country. That there is a marked contrast with other regions will be at once apparent if one compares a typical British upland scene with one, for example, from the Grand Canyon of Colorado.

      FIG. 7.—Ice movements in the British Isles. GLACIATION

      The most striking feature in the recent geological history of the British Isles was the series of great Quaternary Glaciations, which terminated only some 10,000 years ago. For biologists this is a convenient starting-point for recent biological history, but it was scenically of equal or greater importance. In order to obtain a picture of what Britain was like during the Glacial period, we should have to try to imagine it buried beneath a great ice-sheet many hundreds of feet thick, and covering, at its maximum extent, almost the whole of these islands north of the River Thames. The centres of ice formation were the areas with greatest precipitation (then snowfall, now rain), particularly the greater area of the Highlands of Scotland, centring on Rannoch Moor, to a less extent the Southern Uplands from Merrick outwards and the smaller Lake District, and also, but still less, Snowdonia. From these and other smaller centres the ice flowed outwards, though very slowly. A huge existing ice-sheet, that in Antarctica, to-day is still moving at the rate of a yard and a half a day when it reaches the sea as the Ross Barrier, hundreds of miles from its source.

      We can trace the main directions in which our British ice-sheets moved, because they carried with them all the soil and rock detritus that had accumulated on the surface of the land in the preceding ages. Any unusual types of rock are readily recognised and, because they have characteristic fossils or special mineral constituents, limestone and igneous or volcanic rocks are especially useful for this purpose. Rocks thus found far from their place of origin are termed erratics, and the photograph in Pl. VI, shows a well-known example, one of the Norber boulders in West Yorkshire, slate rocks carried by ice from an adjacent valley and left on top of the Carboniferous Limestone which normally overlies the slates (see Fig. 2). In England, erratics of the Shap granite, coming from a small area in the eastern Lake District, have been particularly valuable in tracing the movements of Lake District ice. A magnificent boulder of this rock some ten feet in cube, standing in the main quadrangle of the University of Manchester, illustrates the fact that ice from the Lake District left debris as far south as Cheshire. Farther west there was an ice-flow carrying Galloway granite to Flint and Shropshire. Similar evidence shows that some Lake District ice went east over Stainmoor, leaving boulders of Shap granite as far away as the Yorkshire coast. The accompanying map (Fig. 7), constructed mainly from evidence of this type, shows the main lines of ice movement in Britain during this period. It will be noticed from this map that the ice movements did not always follow the obvious lines of outward radiation. In Lancashire and Wales, for example, the ice was deflected southwards and eastwards by Scottish and Irish sea-borne ice. In Scotland particularly, and to some extent in Yorkshire and Northumbria, the outward-moving ice was dammed up and deflected by Scandinavian ice coming across the North Sea. Moreover, in the partial northerly deflection of the northern ice there is evidence that it overrode mountains 3,000 ft. high. On the west coast of the Highlands, the ice-marks not only reach this altitude, but, allowing for the depth of adjacent lochs, it can be estimated that the ice-field must at times have been some 4,000 ft. thick. Similarly in the Lake District, where the area of high precipitation is much smaller, the ice-fields were some 2,000 ft. thick. Indeed, on Scafell and Helvellyn the marks of glaciation may be seen up to a height of 2,500 ft. It is not easy to imagine the scale of this ice-covering. The nearest thing to it at present may be the Greenland ice-cap; that in Antarctica is apparently larger.

      Even at its maximum extent, it did not wholly cover the country (see Fig. 7). There could not have been much ice south of the Thames, and Dartmoor seems to have been quite unglaciated. Moreover, the highest mountains, and, indeed, many of the lower outlying ones, projected through the ice as nunataks. They can often be recognised by their greater altitude and bolder shape, which contrasts markedly with that of the lower, rounded and glaciated hills. In the later stages of the Ice Age, at least, considerable areas of the Southern Pennines may have been generally ice-free, though no doubt supplied with local snowfields. The main ice-flow at this time seems to have been deflected by the Howgill and Bowland Fells, or westward down into the Cheshire Plain. The existence of ice-free areas makes the comparison with Greenland more valuable and it allows us to assume that there were probably at least some plants and animals there.

      In their movements, the ice-sheets not only scoured away existing soils and rock debris, but they also scraped away rock. Thus in glaciated regions, every projecting rock tends to be smoothed and scratched on the exposed side, even if it retains rough surfaces on the lee side. Such rocks are termed “roches moutonnées,” and often they allow us to infer the direction of local ice movements even better than do erratics. Although it did not invariably do so, the moving ice tended to follow existing valley lines and hence these were scoured out and deepened, particularly towards the valley heads where the ice was normally deeper. Often rock basins were formed which now contain lakes (see Pl. 8). The form of these glaciated valleys (and of the lakes) is very characteristic: they tend to be “canal-sided” in plan and U-shaped in section. The effect of these great ice-sheets is not only to deepen and broaden the main valleys but also in doing so to remove the lower and gentler slopes on each side. Thus spurs are cut off and lateral valleys are cut short, while the lateral streams they contain now tend to enter the main valley by sudden rapids or waterfalls. “Hanging valleys” of this type and “truncated spurs” are a characteristic feature of British mountain scenery. The photograph of Loch Avon in Pl. 8, shows a fine example of a hanging valley, while truncated spurs can be seen in Pl. 10.

      Additional results of this form of erosion are, first, that vast quantities of detritus are removed and scattered over the adjacent country; and, secondly, that the existing forms of low relief are “sharpened” as it were and made more mountainous in aspect (see Pl. 23). The gentle plateau-like profiles of some of our mountain areas, as seen from a distance, give no hint as to the steepness and wildness of the ridges and valleys they prove to contain. At the same time, the removal of pre-existing soils and gentle slopes has generally left the valleys in what is essentially a “montane” condition of bare rock or rock detritus in marked contrast to the deep and long-established soils that must have prevailed in pre-glacial conditions.

      As to the materials left behind by the ice, the most obvious are usually coarse rock-waste in the valleys, often material which had fallen from adjacent hills on to the ice during the last stages of its retreat. The effects of these last remaining valley glaciers were comparable indeed to those observed in existing high alpine regions, but they were insignificant as compared with those of the great inland ice-sheets. The detritus accumulated by these sheets in their ground moraines and left behind when they finally melted, has largely determined the appearance of the existing British lowlands and indeed of the lower valleys, obliterating all pre-existing soils or underlying rock, and often smothering the pre-glacial features under layers of “drift” 30 or 40 ft. thick (see Pl. V). Although it may contain rock-waste of almost every type, the drift usually consists of some form of boulder clay in which ice-worn and scratched boulders are mixed with what is really rock-flour. The prominent clay fraction of this drift, whatever its general texture, usually suffices to make it “set” readily, and accordingly it often tends to be impervious to water. Not only has this type of material been scattered to great depths all over the lowlands adjacent to our mountain areas, but, in thinner sheets, it will also often be found to be plastered over almost any area of low relief in the mountains themselves. Consequently most gentle slopes in the upland districts, if not left scoured clean by ice action, are covered with drift which is often of a clayey nature.

      These drifts and morainic deposits usually contain material carried from a distance and, like the erratics, unrelated in characters to the locally underlying