VI Settler's Handbook. Mr. Cheyenne Harty

on the Island

      St. John has a wide variety of accommodations to suit the visitor’s taste and budget. From campgrounds to luxury villas, to the gorgeous Westin Resort, with an assortment of budget guest houses in between. Most outdoor types will like the Park’s Cinnamon Bay Campground 776-6330, Concordia near Salt Pond south side) and Viers in Lameshur Bay. Caneel Bay Resort and the Westin have top amenities. The Inn at Tamarind Court offers adequate accommodations at a lower price range. Gallows Point Resort and Hillcrest Guest House are within walking distance of Cruz Bay. (Movie stars such as: John Travolta, Kelly Preston, Kevin Bacon and Denzel Washington,have been known to frequent St. John in winter.) If you want a home away from home, there are more than 500 private homes for rent, with pools, hot tubs and spectacular views. Villas and condos such as Serendip are also for rent. Call some realtors on St. John, or phone the St. John Visitor’s Bureau (Dept. of Tourism) at [phone].

      Dining Out

      From native-style vegetarian to upscale dining, you can find it in St. John. Since the restaurant scene is ever-changing, ask the next person you see in the street for their favorite. For lunch try Ocean Grill at Mongoose Junction. For local flavor, try any one of the local stands selling patés, (a turnover filled with ground beef, chicken or fish), and other Caribbean delights. If you are in Coral Bay, see Shipwreck Landing for fresh fish sandwiches and a cold Carib. Try Skinny Legs Bar and Grill adjacent to the dinghy dock, for a reasonably-priced lunch, or the brand new Aqua BistroBar & Restaurant. For top- of-the line dining, Caneel Bay Resort, Asolare above Cruz Bay, and The Westin fill the bill. The staff attends to your every wish as you dine on such sumptuous delights as Caribbean lobster and prime rib.

      For a more moderately priced dinner in Cruz Bay visit Lime Inn for fish and shrimp, chicken and pasta, or Morgan’s Mango. At the Fish Trap, (where they operate as a fish market on certain days) try their seared tuna which got a write up in ‘Gourmet’ magazine, followed by their warm coconut cake with caramel rum sauce featured in ‘Bon Apetit.’ Also see LaTapa in the heart of Cruz Bay, plus you can check out the newly opened Extra Virgin Bistro in town by the Police Station. The great scent of Uncle Joe’s BBQ at the center of Cruz Bay near the post office, can be smelled all the way to the ferry dock! Many restaurants are closed during the offseason (August and September), so call first.

      Shopping Around

      From tee shirts to top locally designed jewelry, you are sure to finish your shopping list on St. John. Shopping is centered at Wharfside Village on the beach at Cruz Bay and at the two Mongoose Shopping Centers just past the Park Office. Don’t miss the dozens of boutiques in between. As far as grocery shopping, there are several excellent grocery stores (prices are a little higher than St. Thomas). Try the Marketplace mall just south of town for one-stop shopping. Look for Starfish Market, the island’s largest grocery store; St. John Hardware; Chelsea Drugs; Kaleidescope Video and The Lumberyard.

      AROUND THE ISLANDS - ST. THOMAS

      Like Rome, all roads or sea lanes lead to Charlotte Amalie on St. Thomas, the seat of government as well as a shopper’s Mecca. The downtown district reflects the island’s Danish heritage. While many of the streets now have English names; some still bear those given by the Danes, and some carry both names. For example, Main Street is also known as Dronningen’s Gade.

      A trading port almost since its beginnings in the 1600s, Charlotte Amalie continues its merchant tradition, which is a hard act to follow. A duty-free port, you will find prices below stateside. Housed in historic warehouses, the city’s brick buildings are filled to the rafters with a mind-boggling array of goods. Wind your way through narrow exotically named alleyways to find jewelry priced from a few dollars to the sky’s the limit. Every kind of liquor imaginable, including made-in-St. Croix Cruzan Rum and Captain Morgan Rum, is there for the tasting. Fine linens, designer leather goods, tropical clothing, electronics, perfume and, of course, yards of tee shirts can be found in the shops of Charlotte Amalie. For a chance to bargain, try the Vendor’s Plaza at the east end of the shopping district, where you will find an array of tee shirts, African clothing and island-wraps. Over the years, the shopping district has sprawled northward, so don’t forget to stroll the side streets to see what the merchants have to offer. For a smaller selection of the same goods, shop at Havensight Mall adjacent to the cruise ship docks. Nearby Yacht Haven Grande is a great shopping center; and, if you are on the East End, the Red Hook area offers a growing selection of similar items and small boutiques.

      If you’re interested in the local arts scene, visit Tillett Gardens, a cultural cluster of craft stores, visual art, music and theater. Patrons will find raku pottery, jewelry, candles, and a gallery displaying water colors, oils and acrylics by local and Caribbean artists. Tillet Gardens also hosts two music studios featuring lessons in piano,violin and voice. And an outdoor theatre accommodating 300 people is an annual home to four classical concerts and four non classical concerts, all performed by top international talent.

      For a look at the art of Virgin Islands politics, stroll eastward along the waterfront until you come to the green V.I. Legislature Building. Built in the 19th century as a barracks for the Danish militia and used by the U.S. Navy when it governed the island, it also served, at one point, as the island’s only high school. The public is welcome to sit in when the 15 senators meet in full session, or in committee on the second-floor chambers (and no, you are not allowed to hurl tomatoes until you have lived here for at least 4 years and have paid all your taxes - Jest! We poke fun with politicians, lawyers, used car salesmen and insurance agents). The receptionist just inside the front door can tell you what is on the calendar for that particular day.

      To glimpse the heart of the island’s history, walk across the street toward Fort Christian and the museum located on the huge edifice’s inland side. Built in 1671 by the Danes, the newly-refurbished museum has a changing series of exhibits on the island’s culture and history. Explore the dozen plus cells that served as St. Thomas’ only jail until the 1980s. There is also a pay public parking lot adjacent to the Fort that is one of the best places to park your car while you explore old Charlotte Amalie. You will find public bathrooms on the north side of the parking lot.

      Continue inland across Norre Gade until you find the 99 steps, Hotel 1829 and Blackbeards, that lead up to Government House. Recent renovations to the 19th century building are complete, and escorted tours are usually available. One block over, you will find Frederick Lutheran Church, an 18th century building which is open to the public. Venture down the hill to the U.S. Post Office and follow Garden Street inland until you hit Crystal Gade.

      Turn left and walk about three blocks until the brick Synagogue appears on your right. The Synagogue, open from 9 a.m. to 4 p.m. is called the Congregation of Blessing and Peace and Loving Deeds and is the second oldest synagogue under continuous use in the western hemisphere. While this building went up in 1833 following a disastrous fire that wiped out much of Charlotte Amalie, the congregation dates back to 1796. A guide will point out the sand floor and the 19th century chandeliers.

      Head back into the shopping area for a look at the Camille Pissaro building on Main Street, once home of the Impressionist painter who went off to Paris to seek fame and fortune. The building now houses several of the stores that give St. Thomas its reputation as a shopping Mecca, as well as an art gallery named in his honor.

      For visitors who want to put some miles on their shoes and get closer to Mother Nature, Hassel Island sits in the middle of Charlotte Amalie Harbor. Visit the waterfront taxi services and find out how to get there. Once there, follow the trail up to the old fort on the ocean side of the 135-acre Virgin Islands National Park-owned island. There is also a trail to the signal tower used by the Danes to alert residents of approaching ships. It can be super hot at mid-day, so be sure to bring water. While seeing the Charlotte Amalie sights can be fulfilling, there are still miles of island to explore. Most visitors