Graphic USA. Ziggy Hanaor

easy to get lost in the kitsch tourist-trap bars and T-shirt shops and the relentless resource development, but there is plenty of inspiration to be found if you look beyond all this. Firstly, the light in Anchorage is truly unique. In winter everything is tinged with a ghostly blue, and in summer the midnight alpenglow has a way of illuminating things in unexpected ways. Secondly – and more importantly – the natural surroundings of the city are nothing short of spectacular, and this in itself has a way of clearing one’s mind – opening a path for fresh ideas and new approaches. At any given moment, you can see the mountain ranges of Chugach, Kenai, Talkeetna, Tordrillo, Aleutian, and Alaska from almost anywhere in Anchorage. I’ve never been anywhere else that offers such inspiring and humbling views. It takes only a ten-minute drive outside of the city to find wilderness so extreme that you can get lost and not be found until next summer. As a result of these qualities, Anchorage has become something of an outdoor enthusiast’s playground – the frontier spirit that attracted many to these remote climes in bygone days is very much alive, and an emerging creative subculture has started to bubble underneath the mainstream. The Native American presence, though much diminished (Native Americans account for a mere five per cent of the population these days), still lingers, keeping a watchful eye over the city. Anchorage is ultimately a haphazard collection of unique discoveries and pockets of brilliance, surrounded by a wilderness that demands respect and metes severe punishment to those who lack it. I have come to worship my puffy goose-down coat. For people in the lower 48 it’s a fashion statement – for me it’s a survival tool. 7 Anchorage, AK

       8 Anchorage, AKCAPTAIN COOK HOTEL A luxury hotel with old-world feel. The cozy, dark halls are decorated with wood carvings and murals telling tales of Captain Cook’s adventures at sea. 939 West 5th Ave, Anchorage, AK 99501, www.captaincook.comCOPPER WHALE INN BED & BREAKFAST This quaint little B&B is perched just above the Tony Knowles Coastal Trail and offers jaw-dropping views across Cook Inlet to the Alaska Range and Mount McKinley. Take your breakfast in the common area and see if you can spot a bald eagle or a beluga whale. 440 L St, Anchorage, AK 99501, www.copperwhale.comINLET TOWER HOTEL AND SUITES Contemporary decor surrounded by natural scenery. This boutique hotel is in an old building near Westchester Lagoon, in the oldest neighborhood in Anchorage. 1200 L St, Anchorage, AK 99501, www.inlettower.comSTAY

       9 Anchorage, AKEATSNOW CITY CAFE A local favorite on the western edge of Downtown with a bright, modern feel and just the right kind of coziness. Breakfast and lunch are made with fresh ingredients and served with a complementary side of cheerful. Study the local art decorating the walls or gaze at the sun through the floor-to-ceiling windows. Serves beer and wine as well. 1034 West 4th Ave, Anchorage, AK 99501, www.snowcitycafe.comURBAN GREENS A trendy sandwich shop serving up consistently delicious salads and sandwiches. My favorite is the ‘tuna salad salad’ – yum! High wood tables and bar-style window seating are available for the urbanites, and there’s a cozy couch in the back for the more chilled out. 304 G St, Anchorage, AK 99501, www.urbangreensak.comNAMASTE SHANGRIA A hidden gem offering an amazingly delicious selection of dishes from Burma, Nepal, India, and Tibet. It’s owner run and operated and has a very friendly, casual atmosphere. 2446 Tudor Rd, Anchorage, AK 99507 SPENARD ROADHOUSE Comfort food with a modern twist is served up at this casual diner-meets-log-cabin-chic roadhouse. Highlights include s’mores to die for, bacon of the month, live local bands every second Saturday, eight local beers on tap, a full bar, and a knowledge of bourbon that would make anyone from the lower 48 jealous. 1049 West Northern Lights Blvd, Anchorage, AK 99503, www.spenardroadhouse.comFIRE ISLAND RUSTIC BAKESHOP A small, family-run, artisan bakery offering organic breads, muffins, pastries, and sandwiches. Focus is on fresh and local ingredients and fair trade coffee and teas are available. Stop by for a hot scone in the morning or grab a sandwich to enjoy at nearby Westchester Lagoon for lunch. 1343 G St, Anchorage, AK 99501, www.fireislandbread.comMIDDLE WAY CAFE A bright, open cafe with a lofting ceiling, displays by local artists and healthy food and drink. Creative sandwiches, salads, breakfast, and smoothies are enjoyed by an animated, alternative crowd of veg heads, vegans and carnivores. 1200 West Northern Lights Blvd, Anchorage, AK 99503SACK’S CAFE Definitely one of the best high-end restaurants in town. An inviting dining room serves up eclectic seafood dishes with Asian influences, using locally sourced ingredients. If you’re visiting in summer, grab a table outside and enjoy your meal under the Alaskan sky. 328 G St, Anchorage, AK 99501, www.sackscafe.com

       10 Anchorage, AKCRUSH WINE BISTRO AND CELLAR Experience wine in a relaxed, friendly atmosphere. Order a glass or a bottle and discover wine at an entirely new latitude. Good food too. 343 West 6th Ave, Anchorage, AK 99501, www.crushak.com TAP ROOT CAFE A quaint, socially conscious cafe, nestled in South Anchorage with nightly music, open mic nights, and poetry readings. Grab a seat at the bar and take your pick from the list of rotating beers. 1330 Huffman Rd, Anchorage, AK 99503KINLEY’S RESTAURANT AND BAR This place has a popular after-work scene thanks to its full bar, extensive beer and wine lists, true 16oz pints, and happy hour menu. The stone wall behind the bar lends a modern vibe to the warm and friendly atmosphere. Don’t miss the display of concert posters in the entryway. 3230 Seward Hwy, Anchorage, AK 99503, www.kinleysrestaurant.comSIMON AND SEAFORT’S SALOON AND GRILL Saunter up to a stool by the windows in the saloon and enjoy panoramic views across Cook Inlet with your daily happy hour special. Old-school Alaskan feel complete with oil paintings, which have eyes that follow you around the room. 420 L St, Anchorage, AK 99501, www.simonandseaforts.comDRINKBEAR TOOTH THEATRE PUB AND GRILL Local micro-brew and a movie. Life is now complete. All beers are brewed in-house and range from light ales to dark stouts. Grab whatever you fancy, sit at the bar, and meet the locals, who will be all too happy to share an adventure story or two. You can also enjoy a tasty dinner there – or eat it while watching a movie in the attached theater. 1230 West 27th Ave, Anchorage, AK 99503, www.beartooththeatre.netMIDNIGHT SUN BREWERY Located in South Anchorage, this micro-brewery has an industrialstyle tasting room offering current brews on tap. All creations taste as unique as their names. “Go Green. Go Growler” is their motto. Growlers and kegs are available as to-go options. 8111 Dimond Hook Dr, Anchorage, AK 99507, www.midnightsunbrewing.com

       11 Anchorage, ALCIRCULAR Eco-friendly, recycled, and smartly designed products fill this shop. Home goods, jewelry, and clothing for adults and children. Great place to find gifts. 320 West 5th Ave, Suite 132 (across from Nordstrom on 6th Ave), Anchorage, AK 99501, www.circularstore.comOCTOPUS INK GALLERY Distinctive and beautiful handcrafted goodies for yourself or a friend, with a focus on sustainability. Jewelry, pottery, and marine-inspired hand screen-printed clothing and bags by local artists. 410 G St, Anchorage, AK 99501, www.octopusinkclothing.comMODERN DWELLERS CHOCOLATE LOUNGE This place is like an installation in itself. It’s worth visiting just to see the crazy furniture that the owners built themselves out of scrap. They stock unique jewelry, bags, homewares, and as an added bonus, drinking