Best of Bordeaux. Rolf Bichsel

between Margaux and Listrac in the centre of the Médoc. Terroir-wise

       Moulis is a compendium of almost the entire Haut-Médoc, containing examples

       of almost all of the peninsula's different soil types: gravel, sand, limestone and

       clay. The range of wines is similarly extensive, made from around 50% Cabernet

       Sauvignon with Merlot, a little Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc. The best exam-

      ples are well balanced and smooth.

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       Right bank Appellations

       Saint-Julien

       920 hectares of vines I 26 producers I 6.5 million bottles a year

       A substantial proportion of Saint-Julien's vineyards are to be found alongside

       the Gironde estuary and in the middle of Haut-Médoc – so it is no surprise that

       the appellation (in which the majority of wines come from classified estates) is

       regularly described as the most reliable and consistent in the Médoc region. The

       appellation covers a gravel-rich area 5 kilometres long and 3.5 kilometres wide.

       Saint-Julien has by far the most uniform terroir in the Médoc. The proportion of

       Cabernet Sauvignon used here is similar to in Pauillac. The juicy, elegant, excep-

      tionally sensual and smoothly ample qualities of Saint-Julien wines make them

       some of the most popular and well loved of any produced in the Médoc.

       Pauillac

       1,200 hectares of vines I 110 producers I 9 million bottles a year

       Pauillac with its tiny harbour is the most important location in Haut-Médoc. It is

       surrounded by the world-famous sites of three Premiers Crus, a handful of ‘su-

      per seconds' and a number of ambitious estates following close behind. The ex-

      tremely lean, deep gravel soils in the form of flat hilltops mixed with a little clay

       and sand on the fringes, around two thirds of which are planted with Cabernet

       Sauvignon, produce wines o

       ff

       ering density, structure, sophistication and power.

       Saint-Estèphe

       1,200 hectares of vines I 150 producers I 10 million bottles a year

       Saint-Estèphe is the most northerly village appellation in the Médoc. It contains

       only five classi

       fi

       ed but around 40 unclassi

       fi

       ed estates, which also produce ex-

      cellent wines in good years. Saint-Estèphe is a goldmine for treasure seekers

       56

       Appellations South Bordeaux

       more interested in content than classification. Around half of the soils combin-

      ing quartz, deep gravel and sand and clay over limestone are planted with Cab-

      ernet Sauvignon, with Merlot making up an impressive 40%. The style ranges

       from angular and robust (basic wines) to elegant and spirited.

       Pessac-Léognan

       1,600 hectares of vines I 75 producers I 10 million bottles a year

       The fact that the cradle of Bordeaux (and thus of Grand Vin) in and around the

       two Bordeaux suburbs of Pessac and Léognan has de

       fi

       ed urbanisation is virtu-

      ally a miracle, and a tribute to the efforts of the chateau owners who fought for

       the creation of their own appellation which has existed since the 1986 vintage.

       Ever since, this appellation has produced both red wines (80% of bottles) and

       dry whites on assorted undulations of gravel and sand. The rare limestone soils

       are kept for the white wines. The best reds are elegant, slender, well structured

       and suitable for laying down. The white wines are fruity and juicy, assuredly

       ample and lively yet always well balanced and good for laying down.

       Sauternes

       2,200 hectares of vines I 200 producers I 4 million bottles a year

       Barsac is part of Sauternes but not vice-versa, and these two villages together

       with Bommes, Preignac and Fargues are situated on the left bank of the Garonne

       around 40 kilometres south of Bordeaux. Semillon is the main variety at 80%,

       supplemented by Sauvignon and some Muscadelle, growing on gravel, sand,

       limestone and clay soils. The grapes are harvested late in multiple harvests. One

       hectare in Sauternes produces around 1,500 to 2,000 bottles of sweet wine. Sau-

      ternes wines have gained aromatic precision, finesse, freshness and sophistica-

      tion. They are sweet and fruity but not clumsy, even quite light in their own

       way. They make delicious aperitifs, are excellent accompaniments to modern

       cuisine as well as Asian dishes and snacks, and can be drunk young or left to

       age for decades.

       Graves

       3,500 hectares of vines I 240 producers I 20 million bottles a year

       Graves begins at the city gates of Bordeaux: Pessac-Léognan is a village appella-

      tion in this underrated region. It extends for around 60 kilometres along the left

       bank of the Garonne as far as Langon and has characteristic gravel soils (‘graves'

       in French) mixed with sand and clay. Around three quarters of its wines are pow-

      erful, characterful reds. The whites offer structure and sophistication.

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       Right bank Appellations

       Saint-Emilion

       5,500 hectares of vines I 800 producers I 35 million bottles a year

       Nine communes around the small town of Saint-Emilion, around 50 kilometres

       east of Bordeaux, are entitled to use this AOC. The principal variety is Merlot.

       The Saint-Emilion Grand Cru designation is reassessed every year, while the

       Saint-Emilion Grand Cru Classé A (4 estates), Premier Grand Cru Classé B (14

       estates) and Grand Cru Classé (65 estates) classifications are reviewed every