Nong's Thai Kitchen. Nongkran Daks

ingredients such as curry pastes or stalks of fresh lemongrass. Even some mass-marketing of Thai flavors has occurred, like the (ultimately unsuccessful) attempt by Subway to sell a Thai chicken sandwich in mid-2000. The California Pizza Kitchen is one of the national franchises that have taken Thai food seriously: it features a Thai-style pizza.

      In response to the burgeoning popularity of Thai food in the United States, the Royal Thai Counsel in Los Angeles has appointed the first Culinary Ambassador of Thai Cuisine, a young Thai chef named Jet Tila. His duties include touring the country to showcase Thai cooking in all its authentic glory. Indeed, the National Innovation Agency is trying to standardize popular Thai dishes such as Pad Thai (page 114) and Tom Yum (page 50) in order to offer authentic Thai recipes. The agency has realized that many cooks in Thai restaurants are not natives of Thailand.

      The intense focus on Thai cooking and Thai restaurants is good news for the well-traveled American public seeking authentic Thai meals. It has helped to set the stage for chefs like Nongkran Daks to showcase their skills. For this reason, the compendium of traditional Thai recipes perfected by Nongkran Daks which you now hold in your hands is a real treasure. Welcome to Nong’s Thai Kitchen.

      Nong teaching at CulinAerie Cooking School in Washington, DC.; Steamed seafood in banana-leaf cups; Rice Soup with Shrimp (page 54); Nong in the kitchen of Thai Basil in Chantilly, VA.

      Thai Ingredients and Utensils

      Though Thai cuisine varies widely, many recipes have common elements. The items described here can all be found at Asian markets or ordered on the Internet.

      Bean curd: A staple of the Asian and Western vegetarian diet and a delicious protein substitute in any cuisine, bean curd (also called tofu) is made in a process similar to making cheese. Fresh bean curd, cut in large pieces or cubed, may be steamed, deep-fried, and stir-fried. Thais add bean curd to many dishes, including soups, stews, and curries. If refrigerated and placed in water, fresh bean curd keeps well for a few days.

      Cardamom: A member of the same family as ginger, cardamom produces tiny seeds in a straw-colored pod that add an elusive flavor and fragrance to many Thai dishes, particularly curries. Thai cardamom is milder than the Indian version. Cardamom is readily available at Asian and Western markets.

      Chinese broccoli: This Asian relative of Western broccoli has long, slender stems and tops with narrow leaves. Popular in Cantonese cooking, this easy-to-prepare vegetable is available at most well-stocked supermarkets and at Asian markets. Its Cantonese name is gai lan. In Thailand, it is called pak khana.

      Chilies: Many different sizes, shapes, and colors of chili are used in Thai cooking, all of which add a level of heat and flavor so typical of this Asian cuisine. The most commonly used chilies are the small, pointed red, green, or red-orange bird’s eye chilies, which produce a fiery taste, and the much milder finger-length chilies. Dried chilies require a brief soaking before being ground into a curry paste. Thai chilies are readily available at Asian markets and at some well-stocked Western supermarkets. The general Thai word for chilies is prik.

       Bird's Eye Chilies

       Green and Red Finger Chilies

       Dried Chilies

      Coconut cream/coconut milk: Although the names may seem interchangeable, coconut cream and coconut milk are really two different ingredients. Traditionally, Thais grate fresh coconuts and soak the shreds in hot water; the first pressing of the shreds yields coconut cream. A second soaking and pressing of shreds produces the thinner coconut milk. Coconut cream is suitable for frying, and is also the basis for several curries; the thinner milk is also a base for many curries. Only a few brands of Thai coconut cream are readily available in Asian markets. These include Mae Ploy (the label says milk, but it contains only thick cream), Aroy-D, and Chaokoh. Coconut milk is much more readily available in Asian and Western markets than coconut cream. If it has not been shaken, a can of coconut milk may have an upper layer of thick cream and a layer of the thinner milk below. Some brands, however, contain none of the thick cream layer at all. It should be noted that one 13.5-ounce (400-ml) can contains about 2 cups of milk. Leftovers may be stored in a tightly sealed container for up to two days in the refrigerator or one month in the freezer.

      Coriander: In all its forms, fresh coriander—also known as cilantro and Chinese parsley—is a staple of Thai cooking. The fragrant fresh leaves are often used as a garnish, while the roots, pounded together with garlic and black pepper, provide a basic seasoning for many dishes. Dried and toasted coriander seeds form the basis of many different curry pastes, as well as the seasoning for Thai Beef Jerky (page 30). Fresh coriander is readily available year round at Asian and Western markets. If you wish to make Thai Pesto Paste (page 24), look for bunches with the roots still attached; these will require very thorough rinsing to wash away the grit.

      Fish sauce: Also known as nam pla, fish sauce is a staple of Thai cooking. This distinctive sauce is made from salted, fermented fish or small shrimp. Fish sauce is widely available, but quality and taste vary; generally speaking, the quality of the sauce increases with the price. It keeps for several years stored in a cool, dry place.

      Galangal: This rhizome, also known as Thai ginger or kha, is a close relative of ginger, which it resembles in appearance but not in flavor. Fresh galangal, with its citrus-ginger taste, adds a unique essence to many Thai dishes, including stir-fries, soups, and curry pastes. If fresh galangal is not available, you may find dried sliced galangal, which you can rehydrate in boiling water; frozen galangal root; or powdered galangal. Fresh galangal will keep in the freezer for several months if tightly wrapped.

      Kaffir lime: The small, knobby, fragrant lime known as makrut in Thailand is a key seasoning for many dishes. Although the lime itself has little juice, its grated rind and its leaves, either whole or shredded, add a distinctive flavor to soups, curries, and stir-fries. Rarely found fresh even at Asian markets, packaged kaffir limes are often sold frozen. Several online markets sell fresh kaffir lime leaves and whole limes. The shiny green leaves are so prized for their unique flavor that Thais often grow their own kaffir lime trees for easy access. Though more readily available, Western limes and their leaves and rinds are not a suitable substitute.

      Lemongrass: An essential component of many Thai dishes, the highly aromatic lemongrass stalks impart a lemony fragrance and flavor. The plump root end of the tough stalks must be peeled and then pounded or ground up when used in a curry or for a soup seasoning to release the flavor. While only the fleshy, yellowish part of the stalk is digestible, Thai cooks often use the full stalk in a soup or curry and remove it