Walking and Trekking in the Gran Paradiso. Gillian Price

of the sun's UV rays increases by ten per cent. This, combined with lower levels of humidity and pollution which act as filters in other areas, and possible snow cover which reflects UV rays, means that you need a cream with a much higher protection factor than at sea level.

       Layers of clothing for dealing with everything from scorching sun to a snow storm: T-shirts and shorts, comfortable long trousers (not jeans), warm fleece and a wind-proof jacket, with woolly hat and gloves for emergencies. Gaiters come in handy for snow traverses

       A supply of high energy food such as muesli bars and chocolate

       Maps, altimeter, compass and binoculars

       Camera, extra memory cards, battery recharger with adapter

       Whistle, small headlamp or torch with spare battieres, for calling for help

       Supply of euros in cash and credit card. ATMs can be found at most of the towns on the routes. Assume that a rifugio does not accept credit cards unless otherwise stated.

       Salt tablets or electrolyte powders to combat salt depletion caused by excessive sweating

       Water bottle

       Mobile phone, recharger and adapter

Wildlife

      Animals

      One of the main reasons for visiting the Gran Paradiso is the marvellous opportunity for observing wildlife at close quarters. To state the obvious, the best way to spot animals is actually to look for them – most are masters of disguise and perfectly camouflaged in their natural habitat. Desolate rock-strewn cirques may reveal fawn patches which, on closer inspection, turn out to be chamois. Levellish grassy ground is pitted with entrances to marmot burrows and abandoned farm buildings overgrown with nettles may be home to vipers. Uninviting rock crests are worth perusing with binoculars for the likelihood of ibex sentinels tracking the progress of walkers!

      Naturally the formidable ibex, Capra ibex, is the recognised king of the Gran Paradiso. Also known as bouquetin or steinbock, this stocky wild goat is easily recognisable from a distance for its enormous backward-curving ribbed horns, which can grow almost to one metre in length on males, double that of the females. Well established and protected these days, they now number a record 5300, in contrast to the 300 reported by Yeld and Coolidge in 1893 and the 400 survivors after World War II. Males live between nine and eleven years and weigh on average 95 to 100kg. Females are smaller at around 65 to 70kg. It was the original Gran Paradiso stock that successfully repopulated the whole of alpine Europe.

      Male ibex grazing

      For guaranteed ibex viewing, try the immediate surroundings of Rifugio Vittorio Sella in Valnontey. There on a typical late summer's evening the young males are silhouetted on high ridges clashing horns in mock battle in preparation for the December mating season. (In December it is anything but pretend with the females only on heat for 24 hours.) Meanwhile sedate older males graze unperturbed, ignoring onlookers, some distance from small herds of timid females with their young. High rocky terrain acts as a stage for their unbelievable acrobatic displays, although they shift around in search of grass and can even be seen on valley floors in spring. In midwinter the herds retreat to high altitudes, carefully choosing south-facing slopes to increase the chances of snow slipping downhill and revealing the vegetation they need to feed on.

      Chamois, on the other hand, Rupicapra rupicapra, can also be seen in woods as well as the high rocky outcrops. Another type of mountain goat, the chamois is slender and daintier than the ibex, with shorter hooked horns and white patches on its face and rear. A recent count recorded 7700 chamois in the park. Their principal predators are foxes and eagles but long snowy winters take the greatest toll on both the ibex and the chamois populations. Walkers of either sex may be surprised to hear reticent lone males whistling at them to mark their territory.

      Baby marmot

      It is hard to miss hearing the European alpine marmot (Marmota marmota) with its shrill whistle warning of imminent danger or seeing a well-padded rear scampering over grassy hillocks towards its burrow. These comical beaver-like vegetarians live in large underground colonies and 8000–10,000 were reported at the last count. Protected now, they were once hunted for their fat, used in ointments believed to be a cure for rheumatism. The belief was unfounded, however, and the practice seemingly arose from a linguistic misunderstanding: the real ‘marmot oil’ for treating aches and pains actually comes from the so-called marmot plum or Briançon apricot, whose yellow stones produced an oil helpful in extracting the active ingredients from rhododendron galls.

      Red foxes may be of little interest to British visitors, but the easiest way to spot one of these pretty creatures is to wait outside a refuge at nightfall, as the scavengers come for titbits in the rubbish.

      A sizeable carnivore currently returning gradually westward through the Alps is the mysterious lynx. Sightings of the tufted-ear feline with grey-brown mottled fur have already been reported by hunters and rangers in Valle d'Aosta, where it prefers the shelter of low altitude woods, the habitat of its favourite prey, the roe deer. (It is also known to hunt old ibex who are slower on their feet.)

      Another recent but unwelcome arrival is the wild boar. Not a native here it was introduced to populate hunting reserves and has bred so successfully that it is becoming a nuisance, wreaking havoc in the chestnut woods. So numerous have they become in Valle Soana that the park rangers have to spend valuable time hunting them down.

      There are also several amphibians to spot in the park. The common frog is renowned for its ability to spend winters frozen into ponds up to altitudes of 2500m, thawing back to life with the arrival of spring. On dry southern hillsides around 1500m the bright emerald sheen of the green lizard is hard to miss, while several varieties of snake are occasionally glimpsed, usually sunning themselves on paths or old stone walls. The most common is the poisonous and protected asp viper (no relation at all to the Egyptian cobra!). This greyish-brown snake has a clear diamond pattern along its back and is slightly smaller than the common viper found in Britain. It is always featured on the helpful posters in tourist offices, visitor centres and refuges. Extremely timid, it only attacks when threatened, so do give it time to slither away should you encounter one on the path.

      Chamois at pasture

      Elementary precautions walkers can take are to keep their legs covered when traversing an overgrown zone, and tread heavily. Should someone be bitten, keep calm and seek medical help as soon as possible. Bandaging and immobilisation of the limb are usually recommended in the meantime. Remember that you do have about 30 hours' leeway, and if there is no swelling after two hours, it either means that no venom entered the bloodstream or that it wasn't a viper at all.

      Birds and insects

      Higher up glide ubiquitous flocks of chaotic noisy orange-beaked crows, more correctly known as alpine choughs. Great chatty socialisers, they appear out of nowhere at strategic cols at the rustling of a plastic bag in the sure knowledge that they will be fed by walkers' crumbs. Their only equals in noise production are the raucous European jays, which flash blue feathers on their dashes through the mixed woods lower down.

      Impressive shadows may be cast by golden eagles, who have a field day in spring and summer preying on young marmots and lambs, the scarcity of vegetation making it easy for them. The only competition in terms of territory comes from the largest bird in the Alps, the lammergeier or bearded vulture. Not a hunter itself, it prefers carcasses. It is able to swallow bones up to 30cm in length (digestion then requiring 24 hours!), and is renowned for its ability to crack bones by dropping them from a great height to get to the marrow. With a maximum wing span of three metres, its wedge-shaped tail distinguishes it from the eagle, whose tail is rounded when seen from below. The reintroduction of vultures born in captivity took off in 1986 in Austria and then spread to other parts