Annapurna. Siân Pritchard-Jones

mystical Himalayan landscapes. Others are content to delve into its historic byways, discovering the hidden shrines of the long-fabled Kathmandu Valley.

      Today Nepal has become easily accessible and welcomes thousands of travellers each year. Few of them will return to their daily routines unchanged; exploring the country is challenging, both physically and mentally. The sights, sounds and smells of Nepal live on in the memory, and the trails of the Annapurnas are rightly the most popular trekking routes in this very special place.

      The aim of this guide is to inspire adventure-seeking trekkers to go beyond the famil-iar, to explore the most mesmerising mountains in the world.

      Siân Pritchard-Jones and Bob Gibbons

      Porters on the Kimrong hillsides

      Braka and Tilicho Peak (Trek 1)

      INTRODUCTION

      The power of such a mountain is so great and yet so subtle that, without compulsion, people are drawn to it from near and far, as if by the force of some invisible magnet…

      The Way of the White Clouds, Lama Anagarika Govinda

      Misty moods: Dhaulagiri from Kopra (Trek 4)

      First used in our Cicerone Mount Kailash trekking guide, this quotation is surely no less apt when applied to the Annapurnas. Of all the great Himalayan peaks, the Annapurnas are unique. They are not defined by a single soaring summit, but comprise a vast massif, encompassing multiple peaks, spires and impossibly high ridges. The whole range is about 60km in length, with four major peaks and many subsidiary summits. Even the most sedentary soul will wish to get closer, to explore the verdant valleys, discover the mysterious gorges and head for the high passes.

      Trekkers come from far and wide to discover Annapurna. Many arrive full of barely controlled anticipation, seeking a new challenge. All will leave with a renewed inspiration for life – there is something truly uplifting about being among some of nature’s most magical arenas. Everyone will lament the poverty of the ‘developing’ world, but look deeper – do you see many unhappy faces? Nepal’s people are her greatest asset: hard-working, brimming with almost child-like humour, boisterous, endearing, versatile and hungry for change, just like most people across our planet.

      Any journey in and around these mountains is a joy, with experiences to treasure for a lifetime. Routes lead around tranquil lakes, through rich farming country, forests of bamboo and rhododendron, cool rainforest, silent alpine glades and rugged, high mountain desert. In the villages, excitable children rush to practise their English. Elsewhere a Hindu god may catch your gaze, or you may hear the chanting of monks in a monastery clinging to a strangely eroded cliff. The Annapurnas may dominate the landscape, but the people and the culture will surprise and delight in equal measure.

      This latest Cicerone guide to Annapurna discusses the impact of new mountain ‘roads’ on the trails. Initially it might be tempting to write off those areas that have experienced the internal combustion engine for the first time at close quarters. Change is happening in Nepal at a staggering pace, despite its underdeveloped status. However – and this must be stressed most emphatically – do not believe for one minute that the Annapurnas have lost their shine.

      There are many new and exciting routes opening across the greater Annapurna region. The guide is divided into three parts, covering established routes, restricted area treks and new homestay trekking areas.

      THE EARTHQUAKES OF 2015

      In April and May 2015 two powerful earthquakes struck Nepal, causing massive disruption to the country. Although many older houses and some historic temples were left in ruins, across Kathmandu the majority of buildings and infrastructure remained intact. Sadly the rural regions adjacent to the two quakes suffered more serious damage. The main areas affected were below the peaks of Manaslu, Ganesh Himal, Langtang, Gauri Shankar and parts of the Everest region.

      The entire Annapurna region, including Upper Mustang and Nar-Phu, was miraculously spared any significant damage. The villages, lodges, trails, roads and hillsides were left intact; only a few isolated houses suffered. Transport links between Kathmandu and Pokhara, as well as along the main valleys of the Kali Gandaki and Marsyangdi in the Annapurna region, remain open and are functioning normally.

      We were in Kathmandu during the month of May. Having become instant aid workers (buying up rice, tarpaulins, tin sheets and warm, locally made clothing using generous donations), we witnessed a remarkable few weeks in the country. After the first days of shock, thousands of local people, young and old, engaged in the relief and rebuilding process with amazing energy. There is no doubt that the resilient people of Nepal will be back on their feet well ahead of expectations.

      There is no reason for any prospective trekker to the Annapurna region (and much of Nepal) to delay a trip to the Himalayas. The country certainly needs the tourism sector to blossom again as soon as possible. Your trek will help this to happen more quickly.

      Anyone wishing to know how ‘amateur’ aid works can read our Earthquake Diaries: Nepal 2015, published by CreateSpace/Amazon. (ISBN: 978 1 51506 316 2).

      Annapurna Circuit

      Most of the changes over recent years affect this route, so much of the guide concentrates on this trek, introducing some previously neglected side trips and new alternatives to walking on or close to the new ‘roads’. It remains the classic trek and is still a top trekking destination. Roads may change it but will not destroy it (after all, Switzerland has both side by side).

      Annapurna Sanctuary

      Another classic favourite where little change, other than ever-improving comfort, has occurred. The views from this cloud-bubbling cauldron are still hard to beat.

      Ghorepani Circuit

      Affectionately known as the Poon Hill Expedition, this has all the ingredients for a short, spell-binding adventure in the foothills. Terraced hillsides, fairytale forests and soaring snow-covered spires contrive to make any visit a memorable one.

      Annapurna–Dhaulagiri

      Once a hidden treasure, this route is gradually becoming more popular. Still mainly a camping option, its high isolated ridges will soon see an influx of trekkers, as community homestays open along its lower reaches. The airy belvederes of the Kopra Danda ridge are sensational; even the most experienced trekking hand will be blown away.

      Restricted areas

      Many would-be explorers are drawn to the captivating Tibetan culture and the plateau’s fantastic scenery. In these remote mountains, specialist trekkers can delve into the natural world, capturing magnificent predators like lammergeyer on camera, tracking the bashful Himalayan bear, sniffing out the elusive snow leopard and even yearning for the yeti.

      Mustang

      Mani wall in Mustang

      Upper Mustang, with its extraordinary walled city of Lo Manthang, has long been the fabled Shangri-La. Getting there is every bit as fascinating and inspiring. Where in the world can you find such unbelievable variation – the highest peaks of the Himalayas, mysterious canyons, legend-filled settlements, staggering geology and contorted natural landscapes?

      Nar-Phu

      Perhaps the most astonishing region of all the Annapurnas, Nar-Phu is as barely known as it is inaccessible. Cut off for centuries by the highest passes and the most impenetrable, sheer-sided canyon in Nepal, the medieval villages of Nar and Phu are some of the country’s most closely guarded secrets. Trekking here takes one to a new level of adventure and wonder.

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