Sierra South. Mike White

334845 4121555).

      DAY 2 (PCT/JMT Junction to Goddard Canyon Trail Junction, 5.75 miles): (Recap Trip 14, Day 2.) Follow the southeast-trending JMT along South Fork San Joaquin River to the junction of the Piute Pass Trail, cross a bridge over the river, and enter Kings Canyon National Park (campsites). Go ahead (briefly east and then southeast) and continue upstream around John Muir Rock to Aspen Meadow (campsites) and across another bridge over the river (campsites). Follow the south bank upstream past additional campsites to a junction of the PCT/JMT and the Goddard Canyon Trail. Good campsites can be found near the junction along either trail.

      DAY 3 (Goddard Canyon Trail Junction to Disappointment Lake, 10.5 miles): Return to the Goddard Canyon Trail and turn south. Climb moderately through Franklin Meadow into a narrowing section of the canyon. Near the confluence with North Goddard Creek, the canyon widens and the grade eases as the trail passes through flower-filled meadowlands. Make a short, moderate climb to an unsigned junction with the Hell for Sure Pass Trail, 5 miles from the JMT junction (campsites).

      Turn right (west) at the junction and begin a 4-mile jaunt toward Hell for Sure Pass. After a half mile, switchbacking climb, the trail follows a gentle 2-mile traverse that heads northwest across the west wall of Goddard Canyon. Near the end of the traverse, you hop across a creek draining the slopes below the pass. A short distance beyond this initial crossing, begin an 1150-foot climb that generally follows the north side of creek’s drainage on the way to Hell for Sure Pass (11,297´; 11S 370845 1184746).

      The views of Goddard Canyon have been stunning since you left the Goddard Canyon Trail, but they reach a climax at the pass, where views open up to the west over Red Mountain Basin. While the route from Goddard Canyon to Hell for Sure Pass has consumed 4 miles of hiking, the trail down into Red Mountain Basin plunges rapidly to Hell for Sure Lake, tightly winding 500 feet down a steep gully to the north shore of the 10,782-foot lake. Tucked into a stunning cirque immediately below LeConte Divide, the lake is surrounded by polished granite slabs that sparkle in the sunlight of a typically clear Sierra sky. Tiny pockets of meadow make feeble attempts to break up the otherwise rocky slopes of the basin. A few campsites are scattered around the north shore, and fishing is reported to be good for medium-size brook trout.

      From Hell for Sure Lake, descend a hillside of granite slabs, pass by some small tarns, and step over a sparkling stream on the way to an unmarked lateral heading south that leads shortly to Disappointment Lake (10342´; 11S 370824 1184859). Backdropped by Mt. Hutton and the craggy LeConte Divide, the lake is as attractive as any in the High Sierra, with alternating sections of meadow and sandy beach ringing the north shore and rolling granite slabs along the south shore. Fine campsites with grand views of the surrounding terrain will reward tired backpackers. A healthy population of brook trout should satisfy anglers.

      EXPLORING RED MOUNTAIN BASIN

      Red Mountain Basin offers many alternatives for spending extra days exploring the region. Several lakes are easily accessible by connecting trails, and many other lakes can be visited via easy cross-country routes. Due to the lengthy approaches necessary to reach the basin, you’re unlikely to encounter many other backpackers. For peakbaggers, Red Mountain is a straightforward Class 1 climb from Hell for Sure Pass.

      DAYS 4–6 (Disappointment Lake to Florence Lake Trailhead, 21.75/25.75 miles): Retrace your steps to the trailhead. A radiophone is available near the ferry landing for arranging your return via the water taxi across Florence Lake.

Bear Dam Junction 7017’; 11S 322442 4134284

      Information and Permits: This trailhead is in Sierra National Forest: 1600 Tollhouse Road, Clovis, CA 93611, 559-297-0706, www.fs.fed.us/r5/sierra/. Permits are required for overnight stays, and quotas apply; reserved permits and on-demand permits are available.

      Driving Directions: From Fresno, take State Hwy. 168 northeast for 42 winding, slow miles toward its end at a T junction on the east shore of Huntington Lake at the community of Lakeshore. Just before reaching Lakeshore, turn right onto the Kaiser Pass Road at the Eastwood Forest Service Center. The road quickly becomes very steep, narrow, and bumpy before Kaiser Pass and is even worse beyond the pass. Blind curves and reckless drivers are problems on this stretch. Allow time to drive very slowly (about 10 mph). As the road descends north and then east from the pass, find seasonally open High Sierra Ranger Station, where you can get on-demand permits. One mile beyond is the Lake Edison/Florence Lake Y junction. Turn left to remain on Kaiser Pass Road and head toward Lake Edison. Bypass the turnoff left to Mono Hot Springs, and go 2.5 miles from the Y junction to the Bear Diversion Dam Road junction, on the right. This is the “Bear Dam Junction” from which these trips start and whose elevation and UTM are given at the start of this section. Most vehicles can go no farther, so park near this junction and walk 2.5 more miles east on a rough 4WD road, to the dam proper and to the true trailhead above the reservoir. (A high-clearance 4WD vehicle, not the average, urban SUV, can travel this road those 2.5 more miles to the true trailhead above the reservoir.)

16 Bear Lakes

      

      Trip Data: 11S 339738 4132346 (at Vee Lake); 39 miles; 5/1 days

      Topos: Mt. Givens, Florence Lake, Mt. Hilgard

      Highlights: This spectacular hike tours a wide variety of High Sierra delights. Starting from the forested depths of Bear Creek Canyon, this trip climbs to the picturesque and secluded Bear Lakes through glacially carved valleys and lush meadows. Although several parts of the terrain are strenuous, solitude and breathtaking beauty richly reward the determined hiker.

      HEADS UP! This trip is for experienced hikers only. The route involves some cross-country travel.

      DAY 1 (Bear Dam Junction to Twin Falls, 5.5 miles): From the junction with the paved road, the unmaintained 4WD road to Bear Dam heads east. The dusty road first descends to cross open granite slabs, and then it climbs for 2 miles before reaching the trailhead above Bear Diversion Dam (7400´; 11S 325053 4134161).

      Here, the rocky road becomes a wide, northeast-bound trail that soon passes the sign for John Muir Wilderness. For the first mile, the path is gentle and easy, with many inviting pools and fine campsites to be found next to the creek and among the live oaks. Once past the unmapped cutoff for the Bear Ridge Trail, the path branches east up the hill and parallels the course of Bear Creek. The creek here runs over short, rocky falls and swift rapids, and it collects in long, quiet pools shaded by aspens.

      After ascending at a gentle but continuous grade for a mile, the trail passes out of the last of the live oak trees, and you will encounter damp ground conditions in early season. Skirt these patches, beyond which Twin Falls appears ahead to the north. The twin cascades flow over silver-flecked granite slabs, and the waters collect in an inviting pool at the base.

      While the water may be chilly in the swimming hole, the small, sandy beach and sun-warmed rocks make idyllic spots to rest and dry off. A well-used campsite is located several hundred feet farther along the trail, near a grove of aspens (8000´; 11S 328338 4136603). There are less obvious campsites located across the creek below the falls.

      DAY 2 (Twin Falls to Lake Italy, 11.5 miles): The path leading away from Twin Falls begins with a steep climb northeast for the first 2 miles, and then rapidly levels off to a gentler grade. The route travels sections of steep, stony trail interspersed with stands of aspen. Rocky outcrops and steep ravines testify to the glacial forces that hewed the valley through the granite, leaving the boulders and other debris in the bottom of the canyon. The trail