Walking in Austria. Kev Reynolds

mentioned below are charters only. All airports listed have good onward train and/or coach connections, and most areas organise local taxi pick-up services. Readers are warned, however, that air travel information is especially vulnerable to change, so you are advised to check carefully in advance.

      Zürich airport in Switzerland is linked to the main rail network with a number of daily Austria-bound trains, and provides another option worth considering – especially for destinations in western Austria, as the airport is only 120km from Bregenz.

      AIRLINE WEBSITES

       www.austrianairlines.co.uk

       www.britishairways.com

       www.easyjet.com

       www.flyniki.com

       www.lufthansa.com

       www.ryanair.com

       www.thomsonfly.com

      By Rail

      Holidaymakers keen to reduce their carbon footprint may wish to consider rail travel. For the majority of Austria’s alpine regions, Innsbruck- or Salzburg-bound trains will take care of most needs, with easy access to regional lines that serve the rest of the country.

      Travelling from London St Pancras to Paris (Gare du Nord) via Eurostar allows a speedy start to the journey, although changing trains in Paris can be time-consuming. The onward route is through France and Switzerland (Basel and Zürich), then on to Bludenz, Landeck and Innsbruck. Alternatively, consider Eurostar to Brussels, then take the Vienna-bound express through Germany, with the option of changing trains in Munich for Salzburg or Innsbruck.

      Since most rail journeys to Austria will involve overnight travel, it’s a good idea to book a couchette to ensure greater comfort and the chance of an unbroken night’s sleep.

      By Car

      Driving to Austria from the UK is neither the fastest nor the cheapest travel option – nor is it the most relaxing. But for visitors planning to camp and walk in several different areas, it may be the most practical. Conventional car ferries operate regular services between Harwich and the Hook of Holland; and between Dover and Ostend or Calais, while the Channel Tunnel offers a quicker crossing, with peak-time journeys on Le Shuttle running every 15 minutes.

      For destinations in western Austria, possibly the fastest routing is via Brussels, Köln and Stuttgart, while for Salzburg, central and eastern Austria, consider travelling via Brussels, Köln, Frankfurt and Nürnberg.

      On arrival at the Austrian border drivers must purchase a vignette windscreen sticker which authorises use of the country’s autobahns. Proof of vehicle ownership (or a letter from the owner giving permission to drive the car) is necessary, as is a driving licence for British or other EU nationals. Non-EU nationals will need an International Driving Licence. A red warning triangle, first aid kit, and ‘Green Card’ third party insurance cover, are all compulsory.

      Note that some of the more spectacular alpine routes are toll roads (the Silvretta and Grossglockner Hochalpenstrassen, for example), and a number of other dramatic pass roads are unsuitable for towing caravans and trailers.

Transport within Austria

      Meadows adorned with ‘hairy men’ form a regular feature in Austria’s valleys

      Austria has an extensive, integrated public transport system that gives especially good value for the walker. On the whole train and connecting bus schedules are dovetailed to minimise waiting times, so a local timetable obtained on arrival at your chosen base ought to be carried along with guidebook and map. Note, however, that in general services are greatly reduced on Sundays and public holidays, and that some of the more remote villages may have just one bus each day.

      The Zillertalbahn between Jenbach and Mayrhofen is one of several private railways useful to walkers

      The rail network operated by Austrian Federal Railways (Österreichische Bundesbahnen (ÖBB) www.oebb.at) serves the majority of towns, and their trains are clean and punctual. The Regionalzug service stops at every station and as a consequence is slow, while Eurocity international express (EC), or the Austrian Intercity express (IC) trains are the fastest. There are also several privately operated railways such as the Zillertalbahn (Jenbach to Mayrhofen) and Graz-Köflacherbahn (Graz to Köflach). Train times are clearly displayed at all stations. For departures study the yellow posters (headed Abfahrt), while the white posters give arrival times (Ankunft).

      The efficient postbus service (www.postbus.at), together with the bahnbus operated by the ÖBB and departing from railway stations, visits most inhabited valleys not served by train. These are of immense importance, not only to visiting walkers but to outlying communities. Local bus timetables (Fahrpläne) are usually fixed to bus stops (Haltestelle) or displayed outside post offices. They are also often available from tourist information offices.

Accommodation

      There should be no shortage of accommodation in any of the areas covered by this guide, for with some justification Austria prides itself on its tourist infrastructure, and almost every town and village offers a choice of hotels, pensionen, gasthöfe, gästehaus and private rooms (privatzimmer) at mostly affordable prices. Enquire at the local tourist office for their accommodation list. Some of the larger resorts also have accommodation boards fitted outside their tourist office, and many have campsites in the vicinity.

      Camping

      As a general rule, campsites are clean and well-managed, with immaculate washrooms and good showers. Many have laundry facilities, small shops and restaurants attached. Sites are usually open between May and September, with seasonal variations in price.

      Hotels

      Hotels and pensionen are star-graded; one star being the most basic, leading to extravagant five-star luxury. Budget accommodation usually remains in the one- or two-star categories, with a considerable difference in price rising thereafter. But a two-star room will often have modest en-suite facilities and include a standard continental breakfast. Note that a hotel-garni provides no meals other than breakfast.

      A pension is a bed-and-breakfast hotel (also known as hotel-garni). Though often fairly small and family-run, when located in towns and cities, pensionen may occupy a section of a large apartment block or other building. Most of those in mountain villages tend to be in attractive, traditional houses.

      Gasthof and Gästehaus

      In practical terms a gasthof is a hotel in everything but name, while a gästehaus often denotes a small bed-and-breakfast hotel. A gasthaus, on the other hand, is a restaurant, although some also offer rooms, in which case look for the words ‘mit Unterkunft’.

      Private Rooms

      Renting a room in a private house is a favoured holiday option. These privat zimmer can vary greatly, with facilities ranging from a basic bedroom with shared bathroom, and breakfast left on a tray outside your room, to hotel-standard accommodation. Most rooms are let on a bed-and-breakfast basis, but it is advisable to check first – tourist offices usually have details. Look for houses displaying the Zimmer frei notice.

      Mountain Huts