Walking in the North Pennines. Paddy Dillon

and runs further uphill to cross a stile over a fence. At this point, the path becomes vague, and while the broad slopes of Cold Fell rise to the right, it is actually worth drifting left uphill to reach a tall, columnar cairn on top of a rash of boulders at 547m (1795ft) on Tindale Fell.

      Face the broad moorland hump of Cold Fell and head towards it, crossing a broad and boggy depression where cloudberry is abundant among the heather and grass. When climbing, drift gradually to the left, partly to avoid messy areas of peat hags and groughs, but also to reach a post-and-wire fence. Turn right to follow the fence uphill and it reaches a junction with another fence. Cross a stile to reach the top of Cold Fell at 621m (2037ft).

      A bouldery burial cairn at the summit of Cold Fell, no doubt the resting place of a chieftain of note, is crowned by a trig point and other stone structures. In very clear weather some of the highest hills in southern Scotland can be discerned, while the Cheviot Hills rise beyond the bristly rug of Keilder Forest. Closer to hand is the Whin Sill, carrying Hadrian’s Wall from coast to coast. Criffel lies across the Solway Firth, with Carlisle closer to hand. Looking across the Vale of Eden, the Lake District presents rank after rank of fine fells. Cross Fell, the highest of the North Pennines, lies roughly south.

      For the descent, it is best to cross back over the stile then turn left to follow the fence away from the summit. Gradients are gentle and enough people have trodden the rugged moorland to even out some of the tussocks. Keep right when a junction of fences is reached. Later, there is a steep descent on the slopes of Brown Fell, where saplings have been planted among the heather.

      Turn right at the foot of the slope, following what appears to be an overgrown track. The walking becomes easier later, and the track is actually the remains of an old colliery railway. It is famous for being the last railway that was worked by Stephenson’s Rocket. Colliery spoil heaps abound, and eventually a gate gives access to the old colliery cottages back at Howgill.

      All that remains is to walk back along the access track to the RSPB Geltsdale car park, if you arrived by car, or continue back along the road to Hallbankgate, if you arrived by bus.

      Old terraced houses at the start of the walk in the little village of Hallbankgate

WALK 3

      Castle Carrock and Geltsdale

Start/Finish	Castle Carrock (NY 543 553)
Distance	22km (13½ miles)
Terrain	Tracks run from valley to valley across moorland slopes, followed by paths and minor roads through low-lying fields.
Maps	OS Landranger 86; Explorers 315 and OL5
Refreshments	Pub in Castle Carrock. Pub off-route in Newbiggin.
Transport	There are no bus services to Castle Carrock. Very occasional buses link Newbiggin with Penrith and Carlisle.

      Cumrew Fell is almost detached from the main massif of the North Pennines, with the headwaters of the River Gelt draining its eastern slopes, and the little villages of Castle Carrock, Cumrew and Newbiggin lying at the foot of its western slopes.

      It is possible to link minor roads, stony and grassy moorland tracks, and an assortment of field paths passing a few farms, to make a complete circuit around the lower slopes of the fell. The first half of the walk passes through the remote King’s Forest of Geltsdale, established for the hunting of wild boar in the 14th century, now managed by the RSPB.

      Start in the pretty village of Castle Carrock, where the Duke of Cumberland offers food and drink, while across the road lies Gelt Hall Farm bed and breakfast. The bus link with Brampton is very infrequent and if used, needs to be checked carefully.

      Leave the village by following the Geltsdale road uphill and downhill, continuing straight down a track from Jockey Shield to cross an arched stone bridge over the River Gelt. The river’s name is derived from the Norse ‘geilt’, meaning ‘mad’, and is locally known as the Mad River, flowing fast and furious at times through a narrow sandstone gorge.

      Turn right to follow the track onwards and fork left uphill before reaching a cottage. Keep climbing to pass a gate and later reach a junction of grassy tracks. Turn right here and head gently downhill, enjoying views around the head of Geltsdale.

      Pass another gate and follow the track up and down, passing a stout, uninhabited house at Gairs, before crossing How Gill. The grassy track leads uphill, and the remains of an old colliery can be seen up to the left, before the track levels out at the Gairs Viewpoint at 362m (1188ft).

      There is a fine view back through Geltsdale from this point, but the sign for the viewpoint actually marks the end of a moorland trail from the RSPB reserve at Tindale Tarn (see Walk 2). Look out for birds of prey, including buzzards, kestrels, peregrines, merlins and hen harriers.

      Go through a gate on the heathery slopes of Tarnmonath Fell and head downhill, following the track as it winds down to cross a bridge above a small waterfall on Old Water. The track climbs again, running as a green ribbon straight ahead, gently up and down on a moorland slope.

      An old limekiln is seen on a gap in the moorlands high above the village of Newbiggin

      The track becomes rather overgrown as it reaches a gate overlooking New Water. There used to be a stone bridge here, but it collapsed long ago, leaving only a single abutment. Fording the river will result in wet feet if there has been a lot of recent rain.

      A rugged path climbs from the river and gets better further along, becoming a good track. Keep straight ahead at a junction, noting a shooting hut up to the right on the slopes of Cumrew Fell. Also look out for ruined limekilns, some distance away on either side of the track, while crossing a broad moorland gap over 360m (1180ft).

      The track runs straight downhill, becoming quite steep, and is followed almost to a minor road near Townhead on the outskirts of Newbiggin. If a break is needed, the Blue Bell Inn is available in the village.

      To continue the walk, don’t walk onto the road, but turn right through a gate where a public bridleway signpost indicates Foul Sike. Stay close to a fence beside Bove Wood to locate a series of gates leading from field to field.

      When a gate leads onto the B6413, turn right to follow the road. Keep an eye on a prominent church tower ahead and don’t miss the short, but rather overgrown path on the right, which leads through metal kissing gates to St Mary’s Church in the village of Cumrew.

      Walk straight along a minor road through the village, admiring the distinctive roadside gas lamps. Keep straight ahead at a road junction, following a narrower road which later climbs past a small forest.

      Don’t follow the road to the right, to Turnberry, but go straight through gates to follow a patchy road through fields to Albyfield. Walk straight past the buildings, through the farmyard, then up into a field and down through another field. When another minor road is reached, turn right to follow it up to Brackenthwaite.

      Walk straight ahead at the farm then turn right and left, passing through gates as marked from field to field, reaching another minor road below Roughethill. Turn left down the road to reach the head of a reservoir. Variant: If time is of the essence, you can stay on the road here and later continue straight along a track, keeping to the west side of the reservoir.

      Turn right at the head of the reservoir to follow a track along the east side of the reservoir. When the road is reached, turn left to walk straight back into Castle Carrock.