Trekking in the Apennines. Gillian Price

and pricklier growth. May to June is usually the best time for orchid lovers, though it will depend on altitude. There’s the relatively common helleborine and early-purple varieties, then the sizeable lady orchid with outspread spotted pink petals resembling a human form, and if you’re in luck the exquisite ophrys insect orchids.

      Bare twigs of mezereon or daphne burst into strongly scented flower in spring, though these morph into bright red poisonous berries at a later stage. Damp marshy zones often feature fluffy cotton grass alongside pretty butterwort, its Latin name pinguicula a derivation of ‘greasy, fatty’ due to the viscosity of its leaves which act as insect traps. Victims are digested over two days, unwittingly supplying the plant with the nitrogen and phosphorous essential for its growth, and which are hard to find in the boggy ambience where it takes root.

      Oten, the way will be strewn with aromatic herbs – oregano, thyme and wild mint inadvertently crushed by boots scent the air deliciously with pure Mediterranean essences. Grasslands above the tree line are associated with a well-anchored carpet of woody shrubs, notably juniper and bilberry, which spreads to amazing extensions, to the delight of amateur pickers who use them for topping fruit tarts or flavouring grappa.

      Chestnuts litter the ground in autumn

Getting there

      The handiest international airports for the trek start are at Ancona, Pescara, Pisa and Rome, each with ongoing buses and trains. Genoa and Bologna, on the other hand, are closer to the trek conclusion.

      The road pass Bocca Trabaria, where the trek begins, can be reached by bus from either side of the mountainous Apennine ridge thanks to the Baschetti run between Sansepolcro and Pesaro. Otherwise a taxi can come in handy. Pesaro is located on the main Adriatic coast Trenitalia railway line, while Sansepolcro can be reached from Rome via Orte and Perugia thanks to the FCU trains, not to mention Etruria Mobilità bus from Arezzo, which in turn is on the main Florence–Rome railway line.

      The trek’s conclusion is Passo Due Santi. The closest bus stop is 5km away at the village of Patigno, pick-up point for the ATN bus to the railway station at Pontremoli from where it is easy to travel on to Bologna, Florence or Rome.

      See Appendix B for more information and contact details.

      Monte Giovo is reflected in the waters of Lago Santo Modenese (Stage 16)

Local transport

      Since time immemorial the Apennines have been criss-crossed by tracks and roads of all sorts linking the Adriatic coast to the Tyrrhenian, and the trek encounters a multitude of road passes and settlements served by public transport. This makes it especially versatile for fitting in with plans for shorter holidays or readjustments on account of unfavourable weather. The capillary bus and train network is reliable and very reasonably priced. Details are given at relevant points during the walk description and timetables are on display at bus stops and railway stations. Bus tickets should usually be purchased beforehand – at a café, newspaper kiosk or tobacconist in the vicinity of the bus stop – and stamped on board. Where this is not possible just get on and ask the driver, though you may have to pay a small surcharge. The transport company websites are listed in Appendix C and can be consulted for timetables. As regards trains, unless you have a booked seat – in which case your ticket will show a date and time – stamp your ticket in one of the machines on the platform before boarding. Failure to do so can result in a fine.

      Useful travel and timetable terminology can be found in Appendix B.

When to go

      Although the climate in the Apennines is classified as continental, it is subject to the warming influence of the Mediterranean. Summers are generally hot and winters freezing cold. Abundant snowfalls can be expected from December through to March. Thereafter it turns into rain, heavier on the Tyrrhenian side than the Adriatic on account of the moisture-laden winds which blow straight in from the nearby sea.

      The GEA was originally designed as a summer itinerary: July–August is the perfect time to go with stable conditions and all accommodation and transport operating. That said, it is important to add that – with an eye on hotel/refuge availability – any time from April through to October is both possible and highly recommended. Early springtime can be divine with fresh, crisp air, well ahead of summer’s mugginess. It’s also a great time to go wildlife watching as the lack of foliage facilitates viewing. Disadvantages at this time of year may include snow cover above the 1500m mark if winter falls have come late, and even the odd flurry, though waterproofs and extra care in navigation can help cope with that.

      Dappled sunlight in springtime woodland

      May usually brings perfect walking weather, neither too hot nor too cold, though some rain is to be expected. Late September–October is simply glorious, with mile after mile of beech wood at its russet best. On the downside, low-lying cloud and mist are more likely in this season. Encounters with amateur hunters can also be expected in late autumn. Solitary optimists after tiny birds will mostly be camouflaged in hides on ridges and clearings – a polite greeting such as ‘Buon giorno’ (Good day) is in order to alert them to your presence. The chaotic large-scale boar hunts are not held until the midwinter months.

      Walking any later than October will increase the chance of inclement weather and hotel closure. The majority of small towns and villages have one hotel operating year-round, but these sometimes restrict themselves to weekends and public holidays in the off-season. Moreover, with the end of Daylight Saving Time at the end of October the days will be too short for the longer stages.

      In terms of transport and accommodation, with the odd exception, it is safe to say that Stages 1–13 are suitable from spring through to autumn, whereas the latter part (Stages 14–23) is limited to midsummer as most higher altitude refuges don’t start opening until June.

      In terms of Italian public holidays, in addition to the Christmas–New Year period and Easter, people have time off on 6 January, 25 April, 1 May, 2 June, 15 August, 1 November and 8 December. At those times buses are less frequent and accommodation best booked ahead.

Accommodation

      There are plenty of comfortable places to stay along the GEA thanks to an excellent string of family-run hotels (most with en suite bathrooms), alpine-style refuges, walkers’ hostels and rooms at monasteries, unfailingly welcoming places at the end of a long day on the trail. These enable walkers to proceed unencumbered by camping gear. Roughly speaking two-thirds of the GEA stages end at a hotel and the remaining third at a refuge. The accommodation options are shown as a yellow house symbol on the sketch maps. All have a restaurant and many offer the mezza pensione half board option. Costing around €40–60 per person this includes overnight stay, breakfast and a set three-course dinner (drinks excluded), invariably an excellent deal. Naturally other options such as B&B are also possible. Foodies may prefer to eat à la carte as a greater range of local specialties could be on offer.

      La Verna sanctuary offers accommodation (Stage 3)

      Unless otherwise indicated, establishments listed in the route description are open all year round, although off-season can be hit-or-miss as impromptu closures are not unheard of. Whatever time of year you go, don’t turn up unannounced but always phone ahead – or book by email where possible – to check there is a free bed and give them time to cater for you. Be aware that mid-August is peak holiday time in Italy and advance reservation is strongly recommended for hot spots such as Lago Santo Modenese, not to mention rifugi on Saturday evenings in summer, as many put up local walking groups. Lastly, remember that the majority of the road passes are served by buses, enabling you to detour to a nearby village and hotel if need be, an added bonus which gives visitors a rare glimpse into farming