Walking and Trekking on Corfu. Gillian Price

Walk 12 Liniodoros beach

       CORFU’S CENTRE

       Walk 13 Mirtiotissas and Agios Georgios mountain

       Walk 14 Agii Deka

       Walk 15 Benitses to Dafnata

       Walk 16 Agios Mattheos and Prasoudi

       CORFU’S SOUTH

       Walk 17 Lake Korission circuit

       Walk 18 Short Lake Korission route

       Walk 19 Chlomos loop

       Walk 20 The Lefkimmi Salt Pans

       Walk 21 Arkoudilas beach circuit

       Walk 22 The Short Arkoudilas loop

       THE CORFU TRAIL

       Stage 1 Kavos to Potami

       Stage 2 Potami to Agios Georgios south

       Stage 3 Agios Georgios south to Paramonas

       Stage 4 Paramonas to Dafnata

       Stage 5 Dafnata to Pelekas

       Stage 6 Pelekas to Liapades beach

       Stage 7 Liapades beach to Agios Georgios north

       Stage 8 Agios Georgios north to Sokraki

       Stage 9 Sokraki to Old Perithia

       Stage 10 Old Perithia to Agios Spiridonas

       Appendix A Route summary tables

       Appendix B Accommodation

       Appendix C English–Greek glossary and expressions

       Appendix D Further reading

      The old kalderimi track starts dramatically (Corfu Trail, Stage 7)

INTRODUCTION

      Corcyra [Corfu] is all Venetian blue and gold – and utterly spolit by the sun.

      Lawrence Durrell, Prospero's Cell

      To this description add brilliant wildflowers, lush countryside, quiet mountain villages, an agreeable climate, golden sand beaches, turquoise sea and breathtaking coastlines – and don’t overlook affordable prices. Nowadays, 600 years after Venetian rule, famed Corfu - once known as Corcyra - is still a most desirable Greek island, as borne out by visitor numbers: all the languages of Europe can be heard in its hotels. Brits in particular have been flocking here since Victorian times: many have stayed on, and over 10,000 now call the island their home.

      Off Kavos beach (Corfu Trail, Stage 1)

      Set at the bottom of the Adriatic, to the east of the ‘heel spur’ of Italy, Corfu is the northernmost of the beautiful string of Ionian islands. On the map Corfu resembles the stocky rear leg of a horse, kicking away from the mainland a matter of kilometres off the coast of Albania and Greece. The island’s perimeter measures 217km, the surface area is 580sq km, and it stretches 62km from north to south.

      Corfu is often associated with coastlines desecrated in the name of low cost package holidaying. Yet despite some construction sprawl – thankfully limited to a handful of resorts on the east and north coast and easily avoided – Corfu has much to offer the nature lover and walker. Many localities, including the island’s interior, have escaped development altogether and retain a laid-back, traditional atmosphere. Moreover Corfu is the greenest of all the Greek islands and, with mile upon mile of paths and lanes, makes a superb destination for a walking holiday. Last, but definitely not least, the Corfiot people are amiable and helpful. In a nutshell, Corfu never fails to enchant.

      As is the fate of islands, Corfu has had a chequered history. Famous figures have been visiting the island since antiquity: the ancient Greek hero Hercules (before he set out on his 10 labours), the Argonauts (after they got hold of the Golden Fleece) and Ulysses (who procured a ship to take him back to Ithaca). Rather later on came the Venetians – who stayed for close on four centuries (from 1401 to 1797). Under them Corfu – in view of its position perilously close to the huge Ottoman Empire – became a heavily fortified outpost. Despite a number of touch-and-go battles the island didn’t succumb. Intermediate periods saw mainly French and British control: it wasn’t until 1864 that Corfu was finally unified with modern Greece.

      Old Venetian fort at Corfu Town

      The list of VIPs associated with the island includes European royalty such as Empress Sissi of Austria. For the majority of English-language readers Corfu is inextricably linked with the Durrell family thanks to the books of the brothers Gerald and Lawrence, relating their sojourns of the 1930s, the best-known of which is Gerald’s My Family and Other Animals. For the record, Roger Moore also came by – as James Bond, during the filming of the 1981 film For Your Eyes Only.

      This guidebook presents a selection of 22 day walks, perfect to do from a hotel or rented accommodation. The routes have been chosen to give a taste of the many different landscapes on this marvellous island. It also describes the long-distance Corfu Trail which stretches the length of the island.

The Corfu Trail

      Suitable for both novices and experienced walkers, this marvellous 150km (93 mile) trek explores Corfu from toe to top – far south to far north – in 10 memorable day stages.

      In this guidebook each stage ends at a village or beach location with meals and accommodation for an overnight stay, be that privately rented rooms, taverna (local restaurant) premises or hotels across the range. Local shops sell picnic supplies, and many cafés and tavernas can provide lunch en route as well. On several walks there are accommodation options at intermediate points, meaning that the route can be shortened. Naturally, rest days are also feasible – maybe at a beach. The island’s bus and taxi network allows walkers to join or leave the route at multiple points, with easy access to Corfu Town.

      Corfu Trail waymark

      The CT is described here as a south–north route. It would be tricky, although by no means impossible, to walk in the opposite direction; however waymarks can be hard to spot and the route description awkward to follow.

      Several UK travel agencies arrange for guided holidays on sections of the Corfu Trail, booking middle and top-end accommodation along with daily luggage transport as well as transfers. However, savvy walkers can easily do it themselves with the help of this Guide.

      The old path to Krini leads through shady olive groves (Corfu Trail, Stage 7)

Plants and flowers

      Corfu is smothered with huge numbers of glorious Mediterranean blooms and aromatic plants throughout the spring and summer. The seashore alone is home to myriad