The Islands of Croatia. Rudolf Abraham

the Croatian Adriatic, and in the case of the islands (with the exception of Krk and Pag, which are connected to the mainland by bridge, or unless you happen to have your own boat) it’s the only way to get there. All of the major inhabited islands – including all the islands featured in this guide – are accessible from the mainland by ferry or catamaran, the most convenient ferry-departure points being Split, Zadar and Rijeka (see Appendix B). Services between some of the major islands are not as comprehensive as they might be (in some cases inter-island services are non-existent). Ferry tickets are cheap (sometimes an absolute bargain) for those travelling on foot, but less so for those with a car. As well as the larger passenger ferries (which also carry cars) there are smaller car ferries, small passenger-only ferries and faster passenger-only catamaran services.

      Ferry approaching the harbour in the town of Vis

      Most routes are operated by the state ferry company Jadrolinija (www.jadrolinija.hr), and these are augmented by routes operated by a handful of smaller, private companies. Sailings vary from once daily to more than a dozen times a day, and are usually reduced out of season and over the winter (with some routes only operating during the summer). Book tickets for high-speed catamaran services at least a day in advance if possible (although sometimes ticket offices open only around half an hour before departures).

      See the introduction to each island chapter for details of ferry routes from the mainland and other islands. For a complete list of ferry and catamaran services relevant to the walks in this guide, see Appendix C.

      Flights

      Croatia Airlines (www.croatiaairlines.com) operates flights between Zagreb and the cities of Pula, Rijeka (airport on the island of Krk), Zadar, Split and Dubrovnik on the coast. Fares are reasonable, and in all cases shuttle buses operate between the airport and city centre.

      By train

      There are regular rail services between Zagreb and Rijeka (4hrs) and Zagreb and Split (6hrs 30mins) – but no rail services along the coast itself, on the islands or between Zagreb and Dubrovnik. Rail fares are cheap in Croatia, and services reliable, although the high-speed train to Split is not as high-speed as might be expected (and suffered a major derailing in 2009). Faster, intercity trains are called brzi vlak; slower, local trains are called putnički vlak.

      Buy tickets in advance (it costs more to pay on the train, and during the summer seats get booked up, especially the high-speed train to Split). Seat reservations are compulsory for international services and the high-speed service to Split, but not for local trains (note that if buying a return ticket, the seat reservation will be for the outward journey only – you’ll still need to make a seat reservation for the return journey at the departure station for that part of your journey). A return (povratna karta) is cheaper than two singles, and two people travelling together can get a joint ticket (zajednička karta) at a reduced price (but there’s only one ticket and you’ll both have to travel together for the full journey including the return). See www.hznet.hr for timetables and fares (click on ‘HŽ Putnički prijevoz’, then select language, then click on ‘timetables’).

      By bus

      Local bus services operate on most of the major islands (including all but one of those featured in this guide) and in most cases provide a convenient, easy way to get around, at least between the main settlements. Some bus services connect neighbouring islands joined by a road bridge (for example, Cres and Lošinj), and continue to cities on the mainland via ferry (for example, buses from Cres cross by ferry to the island of Krk and continue from there to Rijeka and Zagreb on the mainland via road bridge).

      Intercity buses cover most towns in Croatia and tend to be slightly more expensive than an equivalent train journey, while Croatia’s new motorway system, constructed over the past decade, has cut journey times between Zagreb and the coast to similar to (or in most cases faster than) the equivalent route by train.

      As with train tickets, return journeys are cheaper than two singles, and a return ticket on intercity routes includes a seat reservation only for the outward journey, so you’ll need to pay for the return seat reservation once at your destination. There are no seat reservations on most short local routes. (Many ticket offices will tell you that a seat reservation for the return journey is not necessary, and often they’ll be right, but it is advisable to politely insist that in your case it is necessary, rather than risk missing a connecting ferry or flight should all the seats suddenly get booked up).

      See the introduction to each island chapter for details of local bus routes. For timetables and fares see www.autotrans.hr (covering many of the islands) and local tourist information office websites (details below, in the introduction to each island); otherwise try www.autobusni-kolodvor.com, although this never lists all services. For routes to/from Zagreb also check www.akz.hr.

      The dry, almost lunar landscape of the Furnaža peninsula, on the island of Pag

      By car

      When driving in Croatia, whether in your own or a hire car, be aware of the following rules and regulations.

       Drive on the right and carry a driving licence at all times.

       Speed limits are 50km/h in towns or any other built-up areas, 90km/h on the open road, 110km/h on dual carriageways, and 130km/h on motorways (and for drivers under the age of 24, the speed limits are 10km/h less than each of these figures).

       Wearing seat belts is mandatory (including all passengers), as is the use of child seats for infants up to the age of six (children under 12 cannot sit in the front seat).

       Headlights must be switched on at all times, including (dipped) during the day.

       All cars must carry a reflective vest or jacket (which should be worn at the scene of an accident) and snow chains during the winter.

       Driving while using a mobile phone is prohibited.

       The blood alcohol limit is 0.05% (zero for drivers under the age of 24).

      Motorways operate on a toll system, as does the bridge between the mainland and the island of Krk and the Učka Tunnel in Istria. Note that ferry prices for taking a car to the islands are much higher than for those travelling as foot passengers – another reason to use public transport. Drivers should note that the main coastal highway (Magistrala) is single lane, windy and gets extremely busy in the summer. In case of a breakdown, contact the Croatian Automobile Club (www.hak.hr, tel. 987).

      Cycling

      Croatia’s islands are great for cycling. Traffic is in most cases less manic than on the coast, the views are often wonderful, and most tourist centres of any size have at least one place where you can hire bikes. Several local tourist boards have made a concerted effort to promote cycling, with maps of cycle routes available and some degree of signposting. There’s also a national ‘bed and bike’ scheme, see www.mojbicikl.hr/bike-bed/.

      Some of the best areas on the islands for cycling are the Kalifron peninsula on Rab; the Kabal peninsula and Stari Grad Plain on Hvar; the central part of Brač; the Bradat peninsula on Korčula; and Mljet. For more information on cycling in Croatia (including route descriptions for several islands, plus links to maps and other publications) see www.pedala.hr (website only partly in English; for routes click on ‘biciklističke rute’, then ‘regije’, where you can search by region).