Walking in the Yorkshire Dales: North and East. Dennis Kelsall

excitement when a cow wandered in, managing to reach the first floor, and an old photograph shows it gazing bemusedly from the window.

      The path falls from the field to rejoin the river, running past one of Sedbergh School’s rugby pitches to a kissing-gate. To carry on with Walk 2, keep ahead up to the path around Birks House to come out on Birks Lane.

      Otherwise, swing away from the river, heading upfield towards a barn. Emerging onto a track, follow it out to Busk Lane. Through a kissing-gate opposite, climb to another gate at the top of a rise and, crossing a path, continue beside a sports field. Swing right past the cricket pavilion to come out onto Finkle Street beside St Andrew’s churchyard.

      ST ANDREW’S CHURCH, SEDBERGH

      Low and wide, St Andrew’s is typical of many Dales churches and seems completely at one with the surrounding countryside. Its most notable feature is the stained glass filling the eastern window, installed at the end of the 19th century by one of the town’s great benefactors, Mrs Upton-Cottrell-Dormer of Ingmire Hall. In 1906, she presented the town with Queen’s Gardens to commemorate Victoria’s long reign, but the window here was given in memory of her husband and parents. Depicting Jesus calling his first disciples, Simon Peter and Andrew, to be ‘fishers of men’, it was designed by Victor Milner, considered to be one of the finest craftsmen of his day, and made by Watsons of Baker Street in London.

WALK 2

      The Rivers Rawthey and Lune from Sedbergh

Start	Sedbergh (SD657921)
Distance	6½ miles (10.5km)
Height gain	215m (705ft)
Time	2hr30
Terrain	Field paths and trods; a stream crossing may involve a paddle, return along a lane
OS map	Explorer OL19 – Howgill Fells & Upper Eden Valley
Refreshments	Pubs and cafés in Sedbergh
Toilets	Beside car parks
Parking	Car parks in Sedbergh (pay and display)

      Nestling under the Howgill Fells, Sedbergh is a popular starting point for high-level walks onto the hills, but is equally well placed for many gentler rambles amongst the lower slopes. Downstream, the Dee and Rawthey combine to meet the River Lune, a corner criss-crossed by paths and quiet lanes that link the old mills and scattered valley farms that helped foster trade at the ancient market town. Amongst the sights are two impressive examples of Victorian engineering – viaducts that carried the former Ingleton railway above the rivers. The walk can be undertaken on its own, or treated as an extension to the previous ramble.

      Beginning from the junction on Main Street by St Andrew’s Church, head down Finkle Street. Just beyond the roundabout at Back Lane, turn along a path between the graveyard and Sedbergh School’s cricket field.

      Go left at the corner past the pavilion and continue over a crossing path, dropping through a kissing-gate across grass to emerge onto Busk Lane. Opposite, a sign to Birks directs you along a track beside the rugby pitches. Reaching a barn, bear off right through a wooden kissing-gate and carry on along a field, where a developing path rises around Birks House and leads out onto Birks Lane.

      To the left, it winds down to Birks Mill, a path at the end on the left following the now disused tailrace between the trees to the River Rawthey, which here has cut its course through slabs of blue slate bedrock.

      After passing the confluence with the River Dee flowing from Dentdale, the way breaks out at the edge of fields, where there is a fine view to Winder, the southwestern outpost of the Howgill Fells. Having clambered over the embankment of a disused railway line, the path becomes enclosed behind Brigflatts and eventually leads out to the main road.

      The railway, carried high above the river on a striking cast-iron skew bridge, ran from Ingleton to Lowgill at the foot of the Lune Gorge, where it connected with the main west coast route to Carlisle.

      Cross and follow the road left past the entrance to Ingmire Caravan Park, continuing for a further ¼ mile (400m) to find a path leaving through a kissing-gate and signed to High Oaks. Negotiating a stream at the far side of the field, bear left over the shoulder of a small hillock.

      At the far corner, a hedged path leads to the cottages at High Oaks. Go right and then left to the corner of a track. Turn right between the buildings to a second junction and there walk right again, climbing away on a hedged grass track.

      Through a small gate at the end, a sign directs you right to Lincoln’s Inn Bridge. Ignore a path shortly signed off to Ingmire, and instead, continue to a gate in the far corner. Carry on at the field edge and then along a hedged track to Luneside.

      Wind right through the farmyard, as if to leave along the access track, but almost immediately bear off through a gate on the left. Head for a lone ash and then follow the fence to a stile, the path falling beyond to accompany the riverbank up to Lincoln’s Inn Bridge.

      Lincoln’s Inn Bridge was built in the 17th century

      Go along the road a short distance to the right, crossing to a track signed through a gate to Low Branthwaite. Before long the imposing Lune Viaduct at Waterside comes into view, but before it is Crosdale Beck, which, after rain, may involve a paddle.

      THE LUNE VIADUCT

      Part of the same Ingleton branch line encountered earlier, the Lune Viaduct has three towering stone arches either side of a massive, cast-iron central span. The engineer was Joseph Locke, who started out as an apprentice under George Stephenson on the Stockton & Darlington and Liverpool & Manchester railways. Early railways avoided hills and followed the snaking canals, but Locke gained a reputation for his bold use of gradients to achieve shorter routes. This dramatically reduced both construction cost and time, and was matched by increasingly powerful locomotives. The Ingleton project was one of the last upon which he worked, for Locke died suddenly at the age of 55 from appendicitis, in 1860, just a year before the line opened.

      After passing beneath the bridge, bear right up the bank, signs at the top directing you right to a gate and stile. Carry on above Crosdale Beck to emerge onto a track from Low Branthwaite Farm. Go right, leaving immediately beyond a bridge over a stile on the right.

      Climb left to a small, gated stile, from which the onward path is signed to the Height of Winder – indeed, Winder itself looms straight ahead as you walk up the field. Walk on, cutting the bottom right corner and climbing to a small gate. Bear left upfield, passing buildings and over a crossing track to a gated stile in the top wall onto Slacks Lane.

      Walk right for 150m to a gate on the left beneath a sign to Underwinder. Head out alongside a couple of fields to cottages at Ash-hining. Turn into the yard, but exit immediately through a second gate on the right. Bear right across to a ladder stile beside a gate in the far wall, and contour the hillside to reach yet another farm and cottages at Underwinder.

      Entering the yard, go right, and then turn left through a gate beside the end cottage, walking up past its garden to the field behind. Climb away at the perimeter of a couple of fields to emerge through a gate at the top onto Howgill Lane. To the right, it eventually takes you back into Sedbergh.

      Sunset on the Howgills

WALK