The Swiss Alps. Kev Reynolds

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      WORLD MOUNTAIN RANGES

      THE SWISS ALPS

      by Kev Reynolds

      2 POLICE SQUARE, MILNTHORPE, CUMBRIA, LA7 7PY

      www.cicerone.co.uk

      © Kev Reynolds 2012

      ISBN 978 1 85284 465 3

      Printed by KHL Printing, Singapore

      A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library.

      All photographs are by the author unless otherwise stated.

      For my wife whose love, support and patience – and company on so many mountain trips – has made the writing of this book such a joy.

      Advice to Readers

      While every effort is made by our authors to ensure the accuracy of guidebooks as they go to print, changes can occur during the lifetime of an edition. If we know of any, there will be an Updates tab on this book’s page on the Cicerone website (www.cicerone.co.uk), so please check before planning your trip. We also advise that you check information about such things as transport, accommodation and shops locally. Even rights of way can be altered over time. We are always grateful for information about any discrepancies between a guidebook and the facts on the ground, sent by email to [email protected] or by post to Cicerone, 2 Police Square, Milnthorpe LA7 7PY, United Kingdom.

      Warning

      All mountain activities can be dangerous and carry a risk of personal injury or death. They should be undertaken only by those with a full understanding of the risks and with the training and experience to evaluate them. While every care and effort has been taken in the preparation of this guide, the user should be aware that the Alps are in a constant state of flux, and conditions can be highly variable and change quickly, materially affecting the seriousness of a mountain walk, climb or skiing expedition. Therefore, except for any liability which cannot be excluded by law, neither Cicerone nor the author accept liability for damage of any nature (including damage to property, personal injury or death) arising directly from the information in this book.

      Acknowledgements

      It has taken six years to write this book, but in truth research began four decades before any words were written, for I first went to the Swiss Alps in the mid-1960s, fell in love with the mountains and their valleys, found work there, and have since been back scores of times in all seasons, on writing and photographic assignments, leading mountain holidays, researching guidebooks and devising hut-to-hut routes. This, then, has been a labour of love. But none of it would have been possible without the infinite patience of my wife whose support has been crucial at every stage.

      I am also indebted to Ernst Sondheimer, good friend and one-time editor of the Alpine Journal, for his encouragement and valuable advice, to Roland Hiss whose knowledge of so many alpine regions of Switzerland is almost encyclopaedic, and with whom I’ve had some memorable mountain days, and to the many friends who have shared numerous Swiss trails and/or summits: Brian and Aileen Evans, Nigel Fry, Richard Moon, Alan Payne, Derek Roberts, John Robertson, Trevor Smith, Alan and Morna Whitlock, Janette Whittle, and Jonathan and Lesley Williams. My daughters, Claudia and Ilsa, cut their mountain teeth in the Swiss Alps, as did my grandsons, and my hope is that they will come to enjoy as many rewarding mountain days there as I have. I’m also fortunate in having the friendship of numerous folk in Switzerland, and their hospitality and company in the mountains has been greatly valued; among them Myrta and Jörg Dössegger, Hedy and the late Marcel Fux, Marc Jones and Diane Sifis, Lisbeth Spielmann, Silvia Linder and Alexandre and Monique Luczy.

      My thanks too, to Switzerland Tourism for generous assistance over many years, and to Jonathan Williams at Cicerone who has been incredibly patient as one deadline after another drifted by before he caught sight of this manuscript. And finally, my sincere gratitude to my editor, Andrea Grimshaw, and to the production team in Milnthorpe for working their magic once more to create the attractive book you hold in your hands. Their combined skill, talent and friendship are greatly valued.

      Kev Reynolds

      Front cover: No mountain captures the essence of the Swiss Alps better than the Matterhorn

      Frontispiece: The lovely Märjelensee reflects mountains on the far side of the Aletschgletscher (Chapter 5:10)

      CONTENTS

       Overview Map

       INTRODUCTION

       About this Book

       The Mountain Ranges

       PRACTICALITIES

       When to Go

       Weather

       Getting There

       Getting Around

       Accommodation

       Mountain Huts

       Maps and Guidebooks

       Health Considerations

       THE MOUNTAINS

       Mountain Activities

       Safety Dos and Don’ts

       Mountain Rescue

       Plant and Animal Life

       Environmental Ethics

       Information at a Glance

       CHAPTER 1: CHABLAIS ALPS

       1:1 Val de Morgins

       1:2 Val d’Illiez

       1:3 Vallon de Susanfe