Mountaineering in the Moroccan High Atlas. Des Clark

      

      MOUNTAINEERING IN THE MOROCCAN HIGH ATLAS

      by

      Des Clark

      2 POLICE SQUARE, MILNTHORPE, CUMBRIA LA7 7PY

      www.cicerone.co.uk

      About the Author

      Des Clark is a qualified International Mountain Leader (UIMLA). Originally from Ireland, he now lives with his family in a traditional walled market town in southern Morocco close to the High Atlas mountains. He runs a mountaineering and trekking business called Nomadic Morocco (www.nomadicmorocco.com), and guides trips in winter, spring and autumn throughout the range.

      As well as mountaineering and trekking, Des takes a keen interest in the bird life of Morocco.

      His 25-year love of mountains has taken Des from the Irish hills to Scotland, the Alps, the Pryrenees, Iceland, the Andes and, of course, the High Atlas.

      © Des Clark 2011

      First edition 2011

      ISBN: 978 1 85284 611 4

      Printed by MCC Graphics, Spain

      A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library.

      All photographs are by the author unless otherwise stated.

      Acknowledgements

      Thanks are due to a number of people for their help with this book – Hilary Sharp of Trekking in the Alps for her encouragement and wisdom about guidebook writing; Jonathan Williams of Cicerone for believing in the project; Matt Low for advice and support in working in the High Atlas; Bernie Rowlands and Mike Thompson for joining me on some of the routes and for sharing in some epics; Robin Pritchard for drawing all the maps; and Maya, Jacob and Petra for putting up with my many absences.

      Finally, and especially, thanks are due to Nathalie for putting up with me coming and going to the mountains for extended periods, sharing in so many of life's adventures and generally keeping me on track!

      Thanks to everyone.

      Advice to Readers

      Readers are advised that, while every effort is made by our authors to ensure the accuracy of guidebooks as they go to print, changes can occur during the lifetime of an edition. Please check Updates on this book's page on the Cicerone website (www.cicerone.co.uk) before planning your trip. We would also advise that you check information about such things as transport, accommodation and shops locally. Even rights of way can be altered over time. We are always grateful for information about any discrepancies between a guidebook and the facts on the ground, sent by email to [email protected] or by post to Cicerone, 2 Police Square, Milnthorpe LA7 7PY, United Kingdom.

      Front cover: Starting the North Ridge of Toubkal just above the North Col

      Warning

      Mountain walking can be a dangerous activity carrying a risk of personal injury or death. It should be undertaken only by those with a full understanding of the risks and with the training and experience to evaluate them. While every care and effort has been taken in the preparation of this guide, the user should be aware that conditions can be highly variable and can change quickly, materially affecting the seriousness of a mountain expedition.

      Particular dangers in the High Atlas that mountaineers should be aware of include the risks of avalanches and altitude sickness. Weather forecasts are very rare, and there is no mountain rescue service. In the event of injury then your party needs to be able to manage a self rescue and possibly a considerable journey to safety. Therefore, except for any liability which cannot be excluded by law, neither Cicerone nor the author accepts liability for damage of any nature (including damage to property, personal injury or death) arising directly or indirectly from the information in this book.

      Grading and route information

	walk, scramble or climb (or combination of these)
990m	total altitude gain (no figure given if route descends)
F (winter)	Alpine climbing grade
Time	return time, unless one-way or otherwise stated
Ratings	author's own ratings for remoteness (R), navigation (N) and commitment (C), from 1 (least serious) to 3: Remoteness Tarmac road or village with medical assistance: 1 < 4hrs walk away; 2 5–8hrs walk away; 3 > 8hrs walk away Navigation 1 straightforward navigation with little route choice 2 complex terrain on < half the route 3 complex terrain on > half the route Commitment 1 easy and numerous escape routes 2 easy but less frequent escape routes 3 difficult descents and only a couple of escape routes

      CONTENTS

       PREFACE

       INTRODUCTION

       European exploration

       The Berbers

       Language

       Local customs and etiquette

       Building styles

       Plants and flowers

       Wildlife

       When to go

       Money

       Visas and permits

       Planning and maps

       Tourist information

       Getting to Morocco

       Getting around Morocco

       Accommodation

       Mules and porters

       Local guides