Backpacker's Britain: Northern Scotland. Graham Uney

      

      BACKPACKER’S BRITAIN

      Volume Three: Northern Scotland – The Highlands and Islands

      by

      Graham Uney

      2 POLICE SQUARE, MILNTHORPE, CUMBRIA, LA7 7PY

      www.cicerone.co.uk

      About the Author

      Graham’s love of wild places and wildlife has taken him to all corners of the World. Today, having had 15 books published to date, he works in a number of fields in addition to being a writer. Part of his time is taken up working as an ecological surveyor, most recently for the Royal Society for the Protection of Birds, and for the British Trust for Ornithology, but he also runs navigation courses under the name of the East Anglia Navigation School in association with the National Navigation Award Scheme. He lives in the Cambridgeshire Fens, and spends his spare time enjoying hillwalking, photography, bird ringing, wildlife watching, rock climbing, cycling, and drinking real ale.

      Other Cicerone guides by the author

      Backpacker’s Britain Volume 1: Northern England

      Backpacker’s Britain Volume 2: Wales

      Backpacker’s Britain Volume 4: Central and Southern Scottish Highlands

      Walking on the Orkney and Shetland Isles

      © Graham Uney 2006

      First edition 2006, reprinted 2010 (with updates)

      ISBN-10 1 85284 458 2

      ISBN-13 978 185284 458 5

      Printed by KHL Printing, Singapore

      A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library.

      All photographs by the author unless otherwise stated.

      Acknowledgements

      This book would not be possible without the love and support of my wife, Olivia, and without the friendship of the many people with whom I have shared the mountains and glens of Scotland. These are too numerous to mention, but Beryl and Dick Tudhope deserve a special thanks.

      Thanks are also due to the staff of VisitScotland, VisitShetland, VisitOrkney, Caledonian MacBrayne Ferries, and Northlink Ferries.

      I have also been fortunate during the writing of this book to have the technical support of a number of equipment manufacturers, and my gratitude is extended to Harvey Maps, Berghaus, Paramo, Hilleberg, and Snugpak for continuing to supply me with quality outdoor gear.

      Advice to Readers

      Readers are advised that, while every effort is made by our authors to ensure the accuracy of guidebooks as they go to print, changes can occur during the lifetime of an edition. Please check Updates on this book’s page on the Cicerone website (www.cicerone.co.uk) before planning your trip. We would also advise that you check information about such things as transport, accommodation and shops locally. Even rights of way can be altered over time. We are always grateful for information about any discrepancies between a guidebook and the facts on the ground, sent by email to [email protected] or by post to Cicerone, 2 Police Square, Milnthorpe LA7 7PY, United Kingdom.

      Warning

      Mountain walking can be a dangerous activity, carrying a risk of personal injury or death. It should be undertaken only by those with a full understanding of the risks, and with the training and/or experience to evaluate them. While every care and effort has been taken in the preparation of this guide, the user should be aware that conditions can be highly variable and can change quickly, thus materially affecting the seriousness of a mountain walk.

      Therefore, except for any liability that cannot be excluded by law, neither Cicerone nor the author accepts liability for damage of any nature (including damage to property, personal injury or death) arising directly or indirectly from the information in this book.

      To call out the mountain rescue, phone 999 from a landline. From a mobile, phone the international emergency number 112 – this will connect you via any available network. Once connected to the emergency operator, ask for the police.

      Front cover: Backpackers on Beinn Bhuidhe in Knoydart

      CONTENTS

       INTRODUCTION

       Background

       How to Use This Guide

       Getting Around and Accommodation

       Safety in the Hills

       Navigation

       Equipment

       Food

       Access and the Backpacker

       Flora and Fauna

       The Walks

       Walk 1 Shetland – Esha Ness

       Walk 2 Shetland – Mainland South

       Walk 3 Shetland – Yell

       Walk 4 Orkney – Western Mainland

       Walk 5 Lewis – Western Mountains

       Walk 6 North Harris – Mountains and Moorlands

       Walk 7 South Uist – the Wild Eastern Coast

       Walk 8 Cape Wrath and Sandwood Bay

       Walk 9 Ben Hope

       Walk 10 Inverpolly

       Walk 11 Assynt from Inchnadamph

       Walk 12 The Munros of the Inverlael Forest

       Walk 13 Fisherfield and Letterewe

       Walk 14 The Applecross Peninsula

       Walk 15 The Fannichs Traverse

       Walk 16 Torridon from Shieldaig

       Walk